Dull Gellcoat!

[CaptainCaveman]

Removed some original stripes off the my boat this weekend and now I have really white gellcoat stripes where the sickers have been protecting against the elements, now I need to get the rest of the hull as bright! What do you think is best to get a dull looking gellcoat like new? I am looking at buying some sort of compound this week, maybe a tub of G3 or G6, what is the difference between the two and which is better to use? I have also been told that Oxalic acid is good to use....any recommendations?

Thanks in advance
CC

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[johnwest]

I've always used G3. Applied sparingly with a paint brush on the wet side of damp.
Then polish off. A couple of months ago B & Q were selling electric polishers for just under £20. Finally finish whit a good quality wax.

John

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[aztec]

beware of the orbital type polishers. they do work-sort of, but no where near as good as the electric mops used by vehicle refinishers. check around locally either for a paint sprayer or a valeter. they'll have one, offer alcohol and they'll come and do it for you.

failing that it's down to compound and elbow grease, followed by waxing... and yep... more elbow grease. if you're ambidexterous you'll have both elbows to work with!

good luck, steve.

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://homepage.ntlworld.com/s.amos/index.html>http://homepage.ntlworld.com/s.amos/index.html</A>

 

[VicS]

See <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.farecla.co.uk>Farecla's web site</A> for details of rubbing compounds, including Boat Pride. You need a proper closed cell foam compounding mop not a polishing mop. Given a bit of time you can make an enormous difference to the appearance of a hull especially those colours like red or blue that fade and chalk badly, but I doubt you'll completely remove the effect you are talkingabout.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[vyv_cox]

You may find that your yellowing effect goes deeper than polishing compound can remove without spending weeks on the job. The motor trade uses extremely fine wet-and-dry for this, typically 2000 grit but maybe 1000 for bad cases. I once removed a black painted stripe about a foot wide from a 29 ft boat, this resisted all chemical means and we ultimately resorted to wet-and-dry, starting with 180. Once all the paint was off we continued with 360, 500 and 1000 on the stripe, then did the whole hull with 2000 and 4000, finally polishing with T-cut. Results were spectacular. And all done by hand, no polishing machine.

Oxalic acid is excellent for removing the yellow stains caused by certain waters but I suspect that yours is not this type. You can buy oxalic acid from pharmacists if you can be bothered but it is the active ingredient in Teak Brite and similar products that you can buy in your local chandler's.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Guest]

Try "shiny sinks" available from all good hardwhare shops,( tescos etc as well) amazing stuff works brilliantly for little cost
Regards
Rob

<hr width=100% size=1>robinwdunham

 

[longjohnsilver]

I'm always surprised that more people don't use farecla G10, much less abrasive, best to start with it and go for something thicker if G10 doesn't work.

<hr width=100% size=1>