Domestic and nautical fire alarms ?

[Binnacle]

It's several years ( at least 12) since I kitted the house out with battery powered fire alarms.

Unsurprisingly they are all either unresponsive or full of dust and dead, radio-active spiders.

I guess that battery technology and alarm design has improved in the last decade, but I'm still wary of buying cheap kitchen, bedroom and dining room alarms from any discount source, and want to be as sure as I can be that my 11 alarm points (house and boat) are as reliable as possible.

Where best to buy please, and what alarm types (heat, smoke, carbon monoxide, flame, etc) and is it prudent for operational reasons to buy a variety of brands ? Presently, after a reconnaissance trip to B&Q, I am perplexed by the functional types and prices available.

 

[VicS]

There are two types of smoke alarms. The ionisation type ( with a small radioactive source) and a photelectric type. The former are best at detecting fast burning fires the second best for smouldering fires. ITYWF there has been a shift towards the latter for domestic use. They are, I believe, less susceptible to nuisance alarms cause by ordinary cooking etc.

Regarding CO alarms make sure you choose one suitable for caravan and boat use. (Kitemarked to BS EN 50291-2)

 

[ridgy]

Heat alarms are recommended in kitchens to avoid false alarms.
Also 10 year sealed batteries to avoid the annual chirp starting at 3am while you stagger round trying to find the offender

 

[Alex_Blackwood]

It's several years ( at least 12) since I kitted the house out with battery powered fire alarms.

Unsurprisingly they are all either unresponsive or full of dust and dead, radio-active spiders.

I guess that battery technology and alarm design has improved in the last decade, but I'm still wary of buying cheap kitchen, bedroom and dining room alarms from any discount source, and want to be as sure as I can be that my 11 alarm points (house and boat) are as reliable as possible.

Where best to buy please, and what alarm types (heat, smoke, carbon monoxide, flame, etc) and is it prudent for operational reasons to buy a variety of brands ? Presently, after a reconnaissance trip to B&Q, I am perplexed by the functional types and prices available.

Doesn't really matter what you buy if you don't test and verify the operation on a regular (Monthly) basis. May as well just stick a picture of an alarm up!

 

[wonkywinch]

I've fitted proper wired systems in my last 3 houses. I like Apollo detectors and found Acorn a very helpful supplier. No connection to the business, just a happy customer.

Apollo Fire Detectors

 

[DreadShips]

If you're replacing them throughout the house then get a set where they're all interlinked and one going off sets them all off - I'm not sure if there's a common standard for joining them so might be you're limited to one brand. I was alarmed (arf!) to discover how hard it was to hear the downstairs one from the bedrooms so bought a whole network, and can now tell when the kids have opened the dishwasher too early...

The kitchen now has a heat system instead though, so I can no longer tell if they're making toast.

Not sure if there's any benefit on a boat to linking them though?

 

[PaulRainbow]

If you're replacing them throughout the house then get a set where they're all interlinked and one going off sets them all off - I'm not sure if there's a common standard for joining them so might be you're limited to one brand. I was alarmed (arf!) to discover how hard it was to hear the downstairs one from the bedrooms so bought a whole network, and can now tell when the kids have opened the dishwasher too early...

The kitchen now has a heat system instead though, so I can no longer tell if they're making toast.

Not sure if there's any benefit on a boat to linking them though?

Depends on the boat i suppose, our is a flybridge motor boat, so i have them linked, we'd never hear the engine room alarm otherwise.

 

[ylop]

Not sure if there's any benefit on a boat to linking them though?

We only have a modest 32'er but I decided 3 interlinked ones was a sensible solution: 1. In the saloon: galley risks and main electrical equipment; 2. In the void space where the diesel heater is (also covers engine exaust and the shore power supply) - it would take some time for a fire there to be detected by the saloon detector (at least unless the heating was on and the saloon vent open); 3. In the engine bay.

When we burn the toast the other two alarms go off too (and there is a delay when you mute the saloon one so you can hear how loud the others are) - but the sound proofing on the engine bay is enough that it is probably not enough to wake me up in the forward cabin or for it to be immediately obvious at the helm over engine noise.

I wouldn't link them that close at home - but my escape options are better at home, there's no engine noise to compete with and probably less fire risks.

 

[Ian_Edwards]

Fire alarm regulations are different in Scotland. All homes have to have interlinked alarms with a mixture of heat, smoke and CO2, depending on the location.
I've installed "radio" linked alarms at home, as required, and in the boat. I say "radio" because I don't know if they use WiFi, Bluetooth or something else. But when you install them you have to put them close together for them to recognise each other.
They are sealed units with, I think, a 10 year life from 1st activation.
I guess the idea is to have a bullet proof system, where a fire in one part of the house/boat will wake everyone up.

 

[wonkywinch]

I think the biggest risk on a boat is suffocation/risk of explosion from an LPG leak and CO (not CO2) poisoning.

I fitted a dual LPG/CO alarm to our boat with extension sounder that would wake anyone.

Buy Gas Alarms Online, Carbon Monoxide Alarm and Detcetors for Boats & RIBs

 

[Alicatt]

We have a Vetus gas alarm in the saloon it is in the low partition between the galley and the saloon also above the engines, it was this alarm being triggered that alerted me to the house batteries gassing off and being u/s

 

[PaulRainbow]

We have a Vetus gas alarm in the saloon it is in the low partition between the galley and the saloon also above the engines, it was this alarm being triggered that alerted me to the house batteries gassing off and being u/s

By gas, do you mean LPG ? If so, the sensor must be in the lowest part of the boat, LPG is heavier than air.

From the link in post #10:

LPG Sensor(s): Since LPG is heavier than air, the sensor should be
sited low down (about 30cm above the floor is ideal). The sensor is
waterproof and so can be sited low in the bilge without fear of damage
(although sensors will not detect gas when submerged).

Carbon Monoxide Sensor: Carbon monoxide is similar in density to
air and freely mixes with air. It is recommended that the sensor is
sited at a mid to high level

 

[wallacebob]

When new laws came into force in Scotland I struggled to get a set of alarms due to shortages/demand. Eventually got a sparks who worked for a developer to do a Saturday job. Very easy to fit, and “join” , but he highlighted problem of adjacent properties having same make. There are 3(?) different network on each, so if your neighbour has same network, you and them will set off each other system if on same. You count the flashes to see how many devices are on your system.

 

[Alicatt]

When new laws came into force in Scotland I struggled to get a set of alarms due to shortages/demand. Eventually got a sparks who worked for a developer to do a Saturday job. Very easy to fit, and “join” , but he highlighted problem of adjacent properties having same make. There are 3(?) different network on each, so if your neighbour has same network, you and them will set off each other system if on same. You count the flashes to see how many devices are on your system.

My houses in Scotland are all have a wired interlink as per the regulations, my own house has wireless and internet connected so I can monitor it when away.

By gas, do you mean LPG ? If so, the sensor must be in the lowest part of the boat, LPG is heavier than air.

From the link in post #10:

LPG Sensor(s): Since LPG is heavier than air, the sensor should be
sited low down (about 30cm above the floor is ideal). The sensor is
waterproof and so can be sited low in the bilge without fear of damage
(although sensors will not detect gas when submerged).

Carbon Monoxide Sensor: Carbon monoxide is similar in density to
air and freely mixes with air. It is recommended that the sensor is
sited at a mid to high level

Remote sensor wired to the panel for LPG in the bilge and the panel it's self has the CO sensor built into it.

The company I used to work for developed and introduced carbon monoxide detectors for fire alarms in cooperation with Aberdeen University, I had the pleasure of going round the different fire brigades and informing them of the device

 

[PaulRainbow]

My houses in Scotland are all have a wired interlink as per the regulations, my own house has wireless and internet connected so I can monitor it when away.


Remote sensor wired to the panel for LPG in the bilge and the panel it's self has the CO sensor built into it.

The company I used to work for developed and introduced carbon monoxide detectors for fire alarms in cooperation with Aberdeen University, I had the pleasure of going round the different fire brigades and informing them of the device

But you said "We have a Vetus gas alarm in the saloon it is in the low partition between the galley and the saloon also above the engines,"

confused.com

 

[Alicatt]

The alarm part of it is, and for simplicity sake the CO gas alarm is in the saloon/galley division which is directly above the aft end of the port engine also it is close to the Webasto diseasel heater, the LPG detector is slightly further aft and close to where the bilge pump is which is at the lowest point in the bilge and where the gas line comes down from the gas locker into the galley.

 

[PaulRainbow]

The alarm part of it is, and for simplicity sake the CO gas alarm is in the saloon/galley division which is directly above the aft end of the port engine also it is close to the Webasto diseasel heater, the LPG detector is slightly further aft and close to where the bilge pump is which is at the lowest point in the bilge and where the gas line comes down from the gas locker into the galley.

Thanks for clarifying, post #11 wasn't too clear

 

[PabloPicasso]

When new laws came into force in Scotland I struggled to get a set of alarms due to shortages/demand. Eventually got a sparks who worked for a developer to do a Saturday job. Very easy to fit, and “join” , but he highlighted problem of adjacent properties having same make. There are 3(?) different network on each, so if your neighbour has same network, you and them will set off each other system if on same. You count the flashes to see how many devices are on your system.

Surely if your neigbour has a fire setting off your fire alarms is helpful. Especially if semi-D, terraced, or an apartment?

 

[ylop]

When new laws came into force in Scotland I struggled to get a set of alarms due to shortages/demand. Eventually got a sparks who worked for a developer to do a Saturday job. Very easy to fit, and “join” , but he highlighted problem of adjacent properties having same make. There are 3(?) different network on each, so if your neighbour has same network, you and them will set off each other system if on same. You count the flashes to see how many devices are on your system.

I’ve used two different brands and they both required pairing / linking to avoid exactly this issue - essentially a particular sequence of button presses puts them into the pairing mode and so only if your neighbour happened to be pairing theirs at almost exactly the same time would they end up cross linked.

 

[ylop]

Surely if your neigbour has a fire setting off your fire alarms is helpful. Especially if semi-D, terraced, or an apartment?

Yes but it might be a bit annoying if they burn the toast at ungodly hours of the morning on a frequent basis.