Diesel Heaters

What rating of heater do you have onboard?


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GunfleetSand

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I can’t see why one would buy Chinese heater not CE marked and with slightly thinner materials to produce at a certain price point IE cheap when the difference for a Planar is only a few hundred. Considering the amount that is spent on boats is all other areas and the potential risk, must be a false economy.

Oh but I can buy 5 for the price of 1, 5 of what? Buy cheap buy twice
 

Chiara’s slave

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I can’t see why one would buy Chinese heater not CE marked and with slightly thinner materials to produce at a certain price point IE cheap when the difference for a Planar is only a few hundred. Considering the amount that is spent on boats is all other areas and the potential risk, must be a false economy.

Oh but I can buy 5 for the price of 1, 5 of what? Buy cheap buy twice
If it’s only twice it’s a super bargain.
 

NormanS

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If something happened to my Eber, I would certainly buy one, or more probably two, from China. With all the ducting, fuel supply, and exhaust, in place, I'm sure it would just plug in. China in preference to other arguably more dodgy places.
 

Refueler

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Chinese whispers is such dangerous game. Just a case of missing chinglish instructions which are only useful for those in touch with their feminine side who always RTFM!

mmmmmmmmmm.

Question... and this is meant in good spirit - not to be smart or rude in any way.

If you had one of those heaters and fitted it with the supplied items ... would you be happy to leave it running while no-one on the boat ? I ask because I noted an earlier post where guy has GSM connection to start the heater ...

Why do I ask ? Pal of mine had one of those USA MPV's .... Chrysler Voyager ... (to get around EU - they are built in Europe somewhere - just can't remember where at this moment) ... it had a Webasto auto heat system by factory ...
1. Frequent dead battery on the vehicle
2. We could not find any way to switch it off / disable
3. He was lucky one day to go to the vehicle and found it was literally near to going up in flames ... he took to a service and had them disconnect the system
4. After discon - the vehicle suffered strange alarm conditions ...

He now has a Lancia MPV - actually its the latest Chrysler Voyager rebadged - funny thing - this HAS over-ride switch !! Needless to say - he does not use the system after last episode.
 

Ian_Rob

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Question... and this is meant in good spirit - not to be smart or rude in any way.

If you had one of those heaters and fitted it with the supplied items ... would you be happy to leave it running while no-one on the boat.

In as much as the instructions that come with Webastos says that they shouldn’t be left on unattended, I can’t imagine that one’s insurers would be overly impressed with Chinese one’s being.
 

superheat6k

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I am in the process of replacing the Eber D4 with a broken ECU with my 3rd to me Chinaspacher. I am expecting the install / changeover to be straight forward.

I would add the packaged one in my workshop fires up first time every time even after ~ 8 months off.

As an aside to the main topic, I normally run on Kerosene using the supplied tank, as it burns cleaner. but I'm a bit light of kero presently, so what is the view of ~ 50:50 mix of diesel and kerosene ?
 

TSB240

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Question... and this is meant in good spirit - not to be smart or rude in any way.

If you had one of those heaters and fitted it with the supplied items ... would you be happy to leave it running while no-one on the boat ? I ask because I noted an earlier post where guy has GSM connection to start the heater ...

Why do I ask ? Pal of mine had one of those USA MPV's .... Chrysler Voyager ... (to get around EU - they are built in Europe somewhere - just can't remember where at this moment) ... it had a Webasto auto heat system by factory ...
1. Frequent dead battery on the vehicle
2. We could not find any way to switch it off / disable
3. He was lucky one day to go to the vehicle and found it was literally near to going up in flames ... he took to a service and had them disconnect the system
4. After discon - the vehicle suffered strange alarm conditions ...

He now has a Lancia MPV - actually its the latest Chrysler Voyager rebadged - funny thing - this HAS over-ride switch !! Needless to say - he does not use the system after last episode.

It depends what you are fitting and what you are fitting it to.

My son has recently bought a unit for his mancave. It doesn't happen to be a boat but might as well have been.

He fully understood the potential risks and researched the many online forums and you tube videos before placing an order direct to a Chinese supplier.
He installed his unit and took particular care with protecting himself from setting fire to his man cave or gassing himself whilst at work.
He is a techie and can monitor the temperature of his man cave from his home and start or stop his heater and control temperature with his mobile phone.

I have an Eber on my boat.
It was badly installed by a marine electrician for the previous owners, such that it nearly set the plastic combustion air silencer tube on fire the first time I turned it on and ran it for more than an hour.
Previous owners never used it.

I have discarded this item and replaced it with a more suitable item and fully tested the unit out.
I soon found out that the exhaust was also badly fitted causing my alarm to trigger. Once again the marine electrician was at fault and had not used a proper clamp on the exhaust just a jubilee clip.

I bought the boat with tired batteries and I know that a flat battery caused the Eber to turn itself off safely and not run away or catch fire.
It throws a fault code up low voltage.

Maybe a Webasto doesn't have this feature or your " friends" was faulty?

The instructions for all these units state quite clearly that you should not fit any switch to the live feed. This is specifically to allow the unit to run on once the fuel feed has been cut as part of the safe cooling down process. The simplest way to stop it working is to stop the pulse pump supplying fuel. This usually happens as soon as you press the off button.

I would be happy to fit a Chinese supplied heater to my boat as a replacement for the Eber. I would likely follow my sons purchase route or an alternative recommended earlier in this thread. A good source of advice is also available from the son of a well known and respected contributor to this forum. There is plenty of advice available for the DIY installer to make informed and safe decisions on what is required and how to.

My boat is presently surrounded by ice in our marina in North Wales. The Eber is programmed to come on for 120 minutes (The maximum allowed time period) once a day although I could set it for two more time slots.

I prefer to use this method of heating for frost protection rather than the expensive marina electrical connection and the two 80w tube heaters. Boat has had a series of power cuts recently either earth leakage trips or probably because the marina cant afford to pay the leccy bill?

My insurance company does not exclude my choice of heating and method of use in my policy.
 

Refueler

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Tks for reply TSB40 ... appreciated.

My question was more on the line of a person with no info from forums / others and just fitting as supplied. Quite a bit different to your / our situation.

Its funny actually - as I thought about a Diesel Heater for my 'mancave' .... all 12 x 7m of it .... but when pal of mine who is a Heating Engineer worked it all out ... incl what insulation was added etc. - it was better to just have Oil Filled radiators on low. Even when outside hits -30C .... its still above +5 ... usually +10C. All I need is to prevent freezing of my Laser Machine and gear ... I can warm place up quickly if I want to work in there.
 

Refueler

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I am in the process of replacing the Eber D4 with a broken ECU with my 3rd to me Chinaspacher. I am expecting the install / changeover to be straight forward.

I would add the packaged one in my workshop fires up first time every time even after ~ 8 months off.

As an aside to the main topic, I normally run on Kerosene using the supplied tank, as it burns cleaner. but I'm a bit light of kero presently, so what is the view of ~ 50:50 mix of diesel and kerosene ?

Why not ? Kero is a common addition to diesel for cold weather specs .... and it comes from the light-middle distillate range same.

Nanuk Diesel for Alaska / Arctic is basically DPK (Dual Purpose Kero) .....
 

TSB240

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Tks for reply TSB40 ... appreciated.

My question was more on the line of a person with no info from forums / others and just fitting as supplied. Quite a bit different to your / our situation.

Its funny actually - as I thought about a Diesel Heater for my 'mancave' .... all 12 x 7m of it .... but when pal of mine who is a Heating Engineer worked it all out ... incl what insulation was added etc. - it was better to just have Oil Filled radiators on low. Even when outside hits -30C .... its still above +5 ... usually +10C. All I need is to prevent freezing of my Laser Machine and gear ... I can warm place up quickly if I want to work in there.
Oil filled rads are fine. I have one on the boat for days when I want to work on her over winter.
Just seen this
mobile telephone remote control EasyStart call | 221000340100
 
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fredrussell

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…thought about a Diesel Heater for my 'mancave' .... all 12 x 7m of it .... but when pal of mine who is a Heating Engineer worked it all out ... incl what insulation was added etc. - it was better to just have Oil Filled radiators on low.

Just out of interest, what are you paying for electricity (per unit) and heating oil or diesel (whichever is cheapest) where you live?

According to Google there’s 8 kWh per litre of fuel in a 5kw diesel heater - so in the UK it’s currently cheaper to get heat from a diesel heater than from an electric heater, if my maths is correct.
 

Hunterlees

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[QUOTE="TSB240, post: 8102918, member: 40033"
Just seen this
mobile telephone remote control EasyStart call | 221000340100
[/QUOTE]
So eber would charge over £300 for what is simply a gsm relay switch and a plug?
They are taking the p**s

Noted that the easystart call item is no longer available, wonder why.
A switch is only £40 for a 4g version, and with little effort can be connected to the heater. A free gsm SMS app, and a cheap simcard - job done
 

ChromeDome

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Back to the original question:

I have 2 x 2kw Webasto in a 30' mobo.

Bought it with one but soon realized that a boat, insulated like a yoghurt cup, need more.
Got a bargain on a second, identical, heater and fitted the second.

If starting from new I'd go for 5 or 8 kw, making sure to get a version that works in steps to ensure it'll turn down when approaching the set temperature.

Regardless of heater brand and origin, installation must meet or exceed the description for the use (man cave, shed, boat, car, camper).
In case [understandable] documentation is missing, take one from a major brand!
 

ryanroberts

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Just replaced the ancient d3 on my 33' boat with an hcalory 5kw with bluetooth. Thing is much quieter and was a pretty easy install into the existing ducting etc. Not much more expensive than the service kit for an eber..

Who charge TWO HUNDRED AND EIGHTY pounds for a replacement pump, nobody should give them money on principle. The eber hydronic I had in the previous boat was terribly unreliable too
 

oldharry

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5kw can be turned down to below 2kw, although they wil get clogged with carbon. I have had mine 2 yearß, and simply run. It on full heat for about 30 minutes at the end of eaçh season. Àlways buy a branded one,. You then have some contact in UK for spares and help. I bought a Triclicks and received a complete set of spares as they couldnt be sure why it would not start when the glowplug failed on mine. It's run faultlessly ever since.

The generic unbranded ones look much the same and can be £30 -£40 cheaper. However the general feeling seems they are less reliable, and generally without a UK agent , there's little or no comeback or support. There may be a UK distributor, but spares will be shipped direct from China with a month or 6 weeks shipping, even if you can locate the manufacturer.

The main variation seems to be with the controllers. The control box must match the main board in the heater. Although the connectors match, they a4e clearly not interchangeable.

As commented on elsewhere you mußt install a power switch. But you must ensure to complete the cool down cycle before switching off, or the heater may be damaged. I installed a thermal switch on mine to get round this.


There are several active and useful Facebook pages giving a lot of advice and support for owners, with installation and fault finding tips. Well worth taking a look before buying as instruction manuals can be very crude and lacking in detail - if you can even follow the pidgin English some are written in!
 
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