deck sockets

[MM5AHO]

I've always used the so called AAA type. But I've always had problems. They don't leak a lot, but the pins (on the plugs) corrode and the sockets too, and they then loose connections, so losing instruments, or lights or whatever they connect.
What is a suggested better type for boat deck use?

 

[Boathook]

I use index marine cable glands and do all the connections below deck. Used to use the connector in your picture but always had problems what ever I did.

 

[Martin_J]

I replaced about four individual through deck fittings with a single stainless thing that I thought was called a Cableport... I might be mistaken by it's name and I can only find an old night time photo showing it on deck with the top removed.



I know there's still one or two wires remaining on the starboard side which I might do the same with one day.

The advantage is that plugs stay on and pass through the central hole, wires protrude horizontally and unwieldy crew can stand on it with no issues at all.

Looks like this one at SVB..

 

[BabaYaga]

Or this:
Stainless Steel Deck Cable Lead-Thru only 105,95 € | SVB
And then crimped connectors or wago 221 or similar under deck.

Ooops, 2d on ball...

 

[jamie N]

With underwater connectors a thin layer of silicone grease is applied across the face which aids sealing. A common mistake is to put too much grease on it though, which in turn goes into a pin hole, and builds up and solidifies over time.
The other way to seal the connector is to get a piece of thin rubber sheet, cut it to a size that covers the face, perforate it appropriately for the pins, spray a bit of WD40 on it, and tighten it down.
These methods work with the connectors.
Obviously the cable/s into the connector have to be sealed properly as well; if you're putting 2 cables in, a proper 'Y' splice should be done to seal that, but you'd know that already!

 

[Refueler]

First thing I do with those old style plugs .... I take a thin Dremel disc and cut a slot in each pin.
What I found is that usual fault of these - is that pin wears and socket 'tube' that connects to the pin have bad connection. How many times have you 'wiggled' the plug and have connection make / break intermittently ? That 'wiggling' and intermittent connection only gets worse the more you force plug in / to one side to connect.

Cutting the thin slots in the pins allows you to put a thin blade in and 'widen' the pin slightly - then its harder to plug in - but contact is then better.

For water protection .... there's a product called "Corrosion X" .... its a spray product used to seal electronics etc. used after connections made. It does not create a hard skin - so disconnection is unaffected. You just spray again when reconnected.
It will not seal holes or leaks though. Modellers use it to seal Radio receivers / servos / ESC's etc. on models that go on / in water .... especially when seawater use.

 

[Martin_J]

Ah... it was called a Cableport

 

[KompetentKrew]

If you want to be able to connect and disconnect them, I think I would try these: IP67 Waterproof Panel Mount Connectors (12V,20A) | 12 Volt Planet

These are made by a company called CNlinko, and are also available from eBay and AliExpress, who may be cheaper.

I can't say they're less prone to corrosion than any other connector, but they're so cheap you don't mind having to replace them when they go.

 

[johnalison]

Our boat came with a swan neck for the mast cables. This let in a little water on one occasion, but not since I stuffed some sponge into the neck. It has the merit of being spacious and easy to add to if required. I have also used glands without problems.

I used to have plugs of the type shown by the OP. Eventually I learned that a little grease to seal the thread helped, and especially the use of BlueTak shoved onto the connections to seal them when not in use during the winter.

 

[MM5AHO]

Some interesting ideas there, thanks. It's not the waterproofing that worries me as much as the loss of connection. I use white grease, thinly, and that seems to keep the pins and sockets dry mostly, but they're brass, and that's not great round seawater. Refueller hits the nail on the head with the differing diameters between pin and socket. After a while the fit is sloppy, and so a poor connection results. I'd not thought of modifying by cutting the pin, but some plugs have that idea already, to keep the pin tight in the socket. Moving the sockets inside is an idea too, through one of those cable housings. So, I have until next spring to figure out the best solution!

 

[andsarkit]

I used this in place of 4 connectors. Easy to add more cables later.

If you need to disconnect the cables you can add inline connectors such as these connectors. either above or below decks. (only the small ones will fit through the swan neck). They are IP68 and with gold plated pins so no corrosion.

 

[Tranona]

I used this in place of 4 connectors. Easy to add more cables later.
View attachment 143501
If you need to disconnect the cables you can add inline connectors such as these connectors. either above or below decks. (only the small ones will fit through the swan neck). They are IP68 and with gold plated pins so no corrosion.

Just fitting the same thing with a little distribution board down below made up with Wago 2 way connectors superglued to a board. Similar to those shown in the photo of the 12v distribution panel. middle of the photo under the Garmin

 

[Refueler]

The split pin suggestion I made earlier is what I did with my cockpit power connection for tiller pilot. Basically because its a frequently plugged / unplugged item.

But where connection is 'semi-permanent' - my masthead anchor light and steaming light ... I removed the inner plastic parts of plugs and sockets .... replaced with screw terminals. Cable now comes up through deck part to screw terminal, mast cable through plug to terminal. Plug then screwed onto deck socket closing it off. I then tape round to seal.
The screw terminals by end of year are corroded but easy to replace ......
I have considered soldering XT30 or Deans T connectors to the cable ends to sit inside the plug / socket housings. My tillerpilot power cables have been cut - Deans T connectors fitted. This then means I can use the deck socket and power from the boats batterys or via the Deans - power from a portable battery - such as when testing on the bench etc.

 

[Stemar]

Where practicable, I reckon that taking the wire below and connecting it in the dry is the way to go.

Those stainless cable glands look nice, but they're a bit rich for me. I considered soldering up a swan neck from water pipe, but finally decided on these, which worked well for several years on Jissel.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

I used this in place of 4 connectors. Easy to add more cables later.
View attachment 143501
If you need to disconnect the cables you can add inline connectors such as these connectors. either above or below decks. (only the small ones will fit through the swan neck). They are IP68 and with gold plated pins so no corrosion.

I'm just about to get rid of the swan neck that came with the boat, and change to the Cable port type shown above, as the swan neck is prone to snagging the genoa sheet on tacking from starboard to port.
Besides being g a PIA to go to the mast to untangle it, I have now discovered that it's seal to the deck has become compromised some time ago, causing water and a soggy patch in the coach-roof, which is going to be an enormous PIA to remediate.

 

[andsarkit]

I'm just about to get rid of the swan neck that came with the boat, and change to the Cable port type shown above, as the swan neck is prone to snagging the genoa sheet on tacking from starboard to port.
Besides being g a PIA to go to the mast to untangle it, I have now discovered that it's seal to the deck has become compromised some time ago, causing water and a soggy patch in the coach-roof, which is going to be an enormous PIA to remediate.

Agree that the swan neck is not suitable at the mast where it will get knocked and catch lines. Mine is right aft, behind the lazarette hatch and under the tiller where it is well protected. I have cables for AIS, stern light, autohelm and solar panels at the stern. The mast only has nav lights and VHF so I have stuck with cable glands for these. If I had wind instruments and radar on the mast as well, then the cableport would be a good solution

 

[Poignard]

Some interesting ideas there, thanks. It's not the waterproofing that worries me as much as the loss of connection. I use white grease, thinly, and that seems to keep the pins and sockets dry mostly, but they're brass, and that's not great round seawater. Refueller hits the nail on the head with the differing diameters between pin and socket. After a while the fit is sloppy, and so a poor connection results. I'd not thought of modifying by cutting the pin, but some plugs have that idea already, to keep the pin tight in the socket. Moving the sockets inside is an idea too, through one of those cable housings. So, I have until next spring to figure out the best solution!

I have a plug/socket of the kind that Refueler has.

A long time since I had to do it but, if I remember correctly, the brass sockets are already split so, rather than slit the pin, I just squeezed in the sockets a small amount.

The risk of crushing them is avoided if one puts a twist drill bit in the socket a little smaller than its diameter and squeeze onto that.

 

[doug748]

I have a couple of these near the pushpit, above the lazarette locker. Wen they failed I knocked out the electrics so that just the outer ring was left on the deck. A short plug of dowel seals the thing, with slots filed for the wires. You could waterproof the top with silicone but I have never bothered. A rubber plug would no doubt be better
Like the others, I then make connections below deck


This was a temporary fix but I found it so convenient I kept it; In fact I fitted a larger version on one side which allows a VHF aerial connector to pass through it.

.

 

[Graham_Wright]

I've always used the so called AAA type. But I've always had problems. They don't leak a lot, but the pins (on the plugs) corrode and the sockets too, and they then loose connections, so losing instruments, or lights or whatever they connect.
What is a suggested better type for boat deck use?
View attachment 143487View attachment 143487

FlatGland.

 

[RivalRedwing]

Some interesting ideas there, thanks. It's not the waterproofing that worries me as much as the loss of connection. I use white grease, thinly, and that seems to keep the pins and sockets dry mostly, but they're brass, and that's not great round seawater. Refueller hits the nail on the head with the differing diameters between pin and socket. After a while the fit is sloppy, and so a poor connection results. I'd not thought of modifying by cutting the pin, but some plugs have that idea already, to keep the pin tight in the socket. Moving the sockets inside is an idea too, through one of those cable housings. So, I have until next spring to figure out the best solution!

A smear of Contralube works for me