D4-D6 Exhausts

Two weeks ago we did the exhausts on a '04 Portofino 35... They did not look that bad at first but luckily we took a closer look... We have tried to remove them without moving the engines but in the end we had to slide the engines a little bit forward.
The new exhaust kit contains the exhaust pipe, new-style coolingwater hose, clips and a anode.

It looks like Volvo has seen the light, at last: the complete kit is somewhere around €550,-, steering rams (incl bellow) costs now only €225,! Stil a lot of money but I think they sell the new style waterstrainer lid and the later model oil dipstick for costprice.

And, last but not least: they now have a clevis pin (for steering en trim rams) with a hexagonal head so its much easyer to twist the pin out when it its stuck after a few years of neglect in salt water...
 

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...but with the waterline still below the top of the transom shields this may well still be unaffected, regardless of whether the risers or the normal elbows are fitted. As per the campaign details, it all comes down to the waterline measurement, and as a general rule, if the shield is partially visible then it is unaffected.

Don't agree, we have changed several that 'in theory and according to the bulletin' should be OK but were corroded.
You have to allow for the fact that the waterline isn't static it moves up and down as the boat moves, i.e. waves.
There is a circular trough inside the rubber muff where the exhaust pipe comes up into a flared section, a perfect trap for seawater to sit and quietly eat away at the aluminium.
We have a Scand 920 in today with a riser and it looks perfect, you could say it doesn't need replacing, but we are changing it anyway as it falls into the serial number range.
 
For volvopaul and/or spannerman


Its within these serial numbers on sterndrive boats only. If your transom shield is partially above the waterline you are not affected by this campaign, but if the transom shield is fully submersed you need to get the exhaust checked.

DPH 2004015848 - 2004033937
2006020777 - 2006041849
A153126 _ A209119

DPH 400 - D4 - D6
2006041419
2006041420
A169163 - A195917

I have a D6300 serial A196164 with a DPH serial 3102285775. Although this looks as if its just outside the range of numbers you give, the V-P web-site says its subject to the exhaust recall IF it's fitted with extended risers. My waterline is close to, but just below the top of the transom shield and I am told by the selling agent that the boat isn't fitted with an extended riser. Looking at the riser in situ, it seems to be made of plastic -- is this possible or am I being stupid ? How can I confirm (non-invasively) whether the riser is or isn't extended ? And if its not extended am I then unconcerned about corrosion ?
 
For volvopaul and/or spannerman




I have a D6300 serial A196164 with a DPH serial 3102285775. Although this looks as if its just outside the range of numbers you give, the V-P web-site says its subject to the exhaust recall IF it's fitted with extended risers. My waterline is close to, but just below the top of the transom shield and I am told by the selling agent that the boat isn't fitted with an extended riser. Looking at the riser in situ, it seems to be made of plastic -- is this possible or am I being stupid ? How can I confirm (non-invasively) whether the riser is or isn't extended ? And if its not extended am I then unconcerned about corrosion ?


My VP dealer said that VP would pay for them to inspect my boat to see if it was fitted with the risers.
 
My VP dealer said that VP would pay for them to inspect my boat to see if it was fitted with the risers.

Andrew -- thanks for that. I checked with mine and he agrees !!

If I do turn out to have the a riser fitted then some of the comments earlier on this thread, to the effect that installations which are outside the recall because the static waterline is below the top of the transome shield, have nevertheless proved to have serious corrosion cause me to worry because mine is certainly within 50mm of the shield top.

If I haven't got a riser then I'm still wondering how certain I can be that corrosion in this area isn't an issue given the position of the waterline

Anyone got any thoughts ?
 
For volvopaul and/or spannerman




I have a D6300 serial A196164 with a DPH serial 3102285775. Although this looks as if its just outside the range of numbers you give, the V-P web-site says its subject to the exhaust recall IF it's fitted with extended risers. My waterline is close to, but just below the top of the transom shield and I am told by the selling agent that the boat isn't fitted with an extended riser. Looking at the riser in situ, it seems to be made of plastic -- is this possible or am I being stupid ? How can I confirm (non-invasively) whether the riser is or isn't extended ? And if its not extended am I then unconcerned about corrosion ?

Its easy to see if you have a riser, it will have a metallic grey heat insulation jacket around it and it will be higher than the top of the engine, a non riser engine has a metal casting coming from the turbo and going straight into the downpipe.
Non riser engines are not a part of this campaign as the vulnerable part of the downpipe is above the waterline, however it pays to check around the rubber muff for signs of leakage or corrosion as there is always the exception to the rule.
 
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Its easy to see if you have a riser, it will have a metallic grey heat insulation jacket around it and it will be higher than the top of the engine, a non riser engine has a metal casting coming from the turbo and going straight into the downpipe.
Non riser engines are not a part of this campaign as the vulnerable part of the downpipe is above the waterline, however it pays to check around the rubber muff for signs of leakage or corrosion as there is always the exception to the rule.

Many thanks spannerman.

I'm now confident I have a non-riser setup. However, the waterline is within 50mm of the top of the transom shield, so useful extra bits of info would be:
1) how far above the top of the transom shield is the top of the down-pipe.
2) how easy is it to pull the rubber muff off the downpipe to check for corrosion.


thanks again

Bill
 
Its hard to say how high the top is as it extends up into the muff beyond where it flares out.
To check it you need to loosen the clamp (11mm deep socket) where the bend attaches to the turbo outlet, remove the hose on the side of the exhaust bend and the one at the back which runs horizontally across the back of the cylinder head. Then loosen the top clamp on the muff and pull off the bend, you will then be able to see inside where the water level is, if its below the muff you can then remove the muff to inspect the top of the downpipe, if the level is too high then you can't do anymore without going on land.
You will need a long (7mm socket) flexible hoseclamp tool for the rear hose.
 
Hi spannerman!

My engines D4-300 (2004015616) have risers. Its just outside the range of numbers you give.
Why have my engines no problem?

thanks
Richard
 
Hi guys!

If you have a downpipe that dosent have a plastic cap glued on the top it will be corrosion on top of it sooner or later. That causing water to come in because the clamp will not be tight since the material under has corroded away.
If you have a downpipe that has a glued plastic cap on it but no anode could get small holes all over the downpipe because of bad material.
You should get a new downpipe with anode sooner rather than later ever if you have a sterndrive. Volvo pentas talks about water levels and raisers in stainless to be the problem but in my experience those that has a regular knee also has the problem.

Sorry for my bad english im from Sweden
 
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