Cutlass Bearing Extractor

[xstucker]

I need to renew my cutlass bearing and thus need an extractor. I have worked out how I might make one, but does anyone know of anywhere on the South Coast (ideally near Hamble) that I could hire one?

Thanks,

 

[TigaWave]

If you end up needing to make a puller this may be useful.
http://www.diybob.com/diyCutlessBearing.htm
Or if it looks like a fully composite bearing it could be bedded on epoxy, in which case removal is done by heating the bearing carrier and the bearing should slide out with little effort.

However many bearings are still using an interferance fit and need to be pressed out.

 

[Norman_E]

That type needs you to remove the shaft, which is a much bigger job.
I have posted this picture before
[image]

[/image]
Not shown are the two pieces of 10mm studding, used squeeze the two plates together and push the split tube through the P bracket and force out the cutless bearing with the shaft in place.
Two different split tubes, and a stepped spacing ring, were made to cope with either 30mm or 35mm shafts.

 

[Adamastor]

That's beautifully elegant problem-solving!

 

[TigaWave]

That is true but in many cases part of the problem is shaft wear, so that should be checked and hence shaft pulled if you are replacing a bearing. Rubber cutlass bearings in our experience can cause more shaft wear if they are operating in silt laden water.

 

[jerryat]

[ QUOTE ]
That is true but in many cases part of the problem is shaft wear, so that should be checked and hence shaft pulled if you are replacing a bearing. Rubber cutlass bearings in our experience can cause more shaft wear if they are operating in silt laden water.

[/ QUOTE ]

Agreed, and as I've warned here before, use of the type of assembly shown by NormanE can scratch the shaft sufficiently to cause very rapid wear on the new bearing. I've seen this happen with similar equipment on at least three occasions. Tiny scratches it's true, but lethal to the bearing in a VERY short period. After all, the shaft is usually worn to an extremely high polish at this point.

It's a good idea, but however carefully used, I can't see how you can be certain of avoiding the risk. Perhaps wrapping some polythene round the shaft or .....?

Frankly, even if it's pretty difficult to remove the shaft (for checking alignment, wear etc) it's definitely the method I'd choose.

 

[PCUK]

Is the bearing in a 'P' bracket or stern tube?

 

[oldsaltoz]

Remove shaft, thread a hacksaw blade thru' the bearing, attach to hacksaw frame with frame hanging down and blade teeth also facing down, cut a slot in the old bearing to create some space.

Knock the bearing out with a length of suitable pipe small enough to clear the housing.

Avagoodweekend......

 

[vyv_cox]

But go easy with the knocking. A P-bracket is a long lever and the fixings on your boat may not be over-strong.

 

[oldsaltoz]

Good Point Vyv,

Forgot to add, "have a heavy object" on the other side of your bracket to reduce movement, it should not move, so don't get too keen, cut a second slot and it might even fall out.

Avagoodweekend......

 

[Norman_E]

No part of my extractor touches the shaft, only the bearing itself, so unless it is laden with sharp grit, no scratches. If the bearing is grit laden it will probably have scored the shaft anyway.

When I replaced the bearing last year that extractor took it out with no damage at all. I know that because I removed the shaft afterwards and replaced it because it was heavily pitted in the exposed length between the shaft seal and the cutless bearing.

 

[mikejames]

I have tried the 'jack' approach twice and failed , resorting to the hacksaw. Difficulty was caused by corrosion. Eventually the P bracket had to be replaced as well as it crumbled.