CT1 sealant, how sticky is it?

[Quandary]

When I took the windlass apart all the void space inside the casing were full of crystals from the effects of sea water on the inside of the alloy casing, it must have been quite leaky. I have now got it cleaned up and ready to be refitted. The access is through the bottom which is a thin alloy plate secured in a rebate running around the cast alloy enclosure by about a dozen tiny stainless steel machine screws which I think contributed to the corrosion. I intended to attempt to Duralac the screws and in addition to seal the plate to the casing with CT1 but I am concerned that if I do the bottom might never come off again, perhaps an adhesive sealant is a bad idea and I might be better using something that does not set.
Any recommendations?

 

[Tim Good]

Its pretty good stuff and sticky. I've only ever used it for bonding skin fittings and other stuff I'll likely never remove but I think it is more of a adhesive as opposed to just a sealant. Maybe use Sikaflex-291i if your worried?

 

[MM5AHO]

Be very careful.
I've used CT1 for several years now and have found that if you might EVER want to get the joint apart, you WILL NOT be able to.
It is a great adhesive sealer, but no good if you might want that thing off again.
I have fibreglass to wood, acylic to wood, wood to wood, and bronze to fibreglass that I cannot separate.
But where I wanted to "glue" something together, I cannot fault it.

I now use this stuff for sealant only purpose, such as skin fittings, and suchlike.
http://www.marinemastics.com/marine-flex/marine-flex-one-tube.html

 

[Murv]

As per the above.
CT1 is officially my favouritest thing in the World, absolutely outstanding stuff. But, if you need to separate something afterwards, it's only really viable if you can get a blade in to cut it.

 

[Dougal]

Been using CT1 for years, both on and off the boat. It is what Sikka would love to know how to make;-)

 

[Quandary]

The Marineflex stuff and 291 are both described as adhesives so am I not going to have the same problem if use them instead of the CT1?

 

[SailSouth]

I like CT1 and have used it for some time but if I need to remove an item then tend to use Pureflex 40 from Toolstation. I can't say for sure that it's less of an adhesive but it feels like it.

The only thing with pureflex white is that it does seem to discolour a bit when curing so is more or a beige than a white.

 

[MM5AHO]

YES,
my error. Sorry,
should have linked to this one..
http://www.marinemastics.com/universal-marine-bedding-sealant.html

I've used this longer than CT1, and for things I want to get apart. Good for many years undisturbed, but can be parted.
Warning, it's messy, but cleans with turps / thinners., So keep a turpsy rag nearby.

 

[LoneHort]

Is this product from CT1 not able to remove it?
http://www.ct1ltd.com/our-products/multisolve/

 

[Murv]

Is this product from CT1 not able to remove it?
http://www.ct1ltd.com/our-products/multisolve/

Not once it's cured, I have tried!

 

[Rikds]

Adshead Ratcliffe do a superb range of sealants. Have been using their butyl rubber for decades.
http://www.arbo.co.uk/

 

[Poignard]

(...)Any recommendations?

I would have expected a gasket or o-ring in that situation. Is there no trace of one remaining?

 

[Quandary]

I would have expected a gasket or o-ring in that situation. Is there no trace of one remaining?

None, the casing is L shaped in plan as is the bottom plate which fits into a tiny rebate (about 2mmx2mm) there are were traces of silicone sealant externally but I do not think that was original, I suspect it was just for bedding. To reduce the risk of water penetration occurring again I am considering making an 8mm. plinth from an MDPE chopping board cut to exactly match the outline of the base, hopefully the water that the chain brings aboard will drain away into the locker rather than sit around the base, I might slap a lot of sealant between it and the casing, but my first priority is to ensure the fine joint between the motor/gear housing and the cover plate is watertight. I took about 2 litres of aluminium crystals out of windlass before I could dismantle it, amazingly the only missing metal seemed to be a tiny bit of erosion at the internal ribs where the wee screws went in.

 

[Quandary]

I am glad I asked the question, looks as if I might have finished up needing to use a can opener. Thanks for the advice.
I have Arbro polysulphide construction sealant which I may be able to use, failing that perhaps Permatex?

 

[Deleted member 36384]

.... Any recommendations?

If the rebate is deep enough, then I would use Denso Tape (Google it, about £5 a roll). You can easily work the tape into a recess, it is quite sticky and moulds into the shape of things and can be compressed if the recess is not deep enough. In fact a slight amount of compression is very good. I have used extensively on North Sea rigs on all sorts of surfaces, including over junction box flange face gaps to keep water out. A low cost, rough and ready product that withstands a lot of abuse, not good at retaining pressure.

Just anther thought, when I removed my old windlass, it was bedded on silicon between the casting and the GRP deck. The bottom of my windlass is open and the motor and relay are exposed in the void. I have no idea how long it has been on the boat with the silicon but the motor area was dry as above. The windlass was was slightly stuck in position but it came away easy enough with a bit of leverage under the capstan to break the seal, the bed cleaned up very well back to the GRP. After I refurbished the windlass I bedded it back on silicon. I know folks don't like silicon but this appeared to be a good use of the stuff.

 

[Ardenfour]

A few years ago i used CT1 to fill the gap between the brass fuel tank filler neck and grp deck. Was fine for a season then began to go all soft and sticky. I don't know if it was a reaction to diesel or the brass

 

[PabloPicasso]

Been using CT1 for years, both on and off the boat. It is what Sikka would love to know how to make;-)

+1

 

[doug748]

".....Just anther thought, when I removed my old windlass, it was bedded on silicon between the casting and the GRP deck. The bottom of my windlass is open and the motor and relay are exposed in the void. I have no idea how long it has been on the boat with the silicon but the motor area was dry as above. The windlass was was slightly stuck in position but it came away easy enough with a bit of leverage under the capstan to break the seal, the bed cleaned up very well back to the GRP. After I refurbished the windlass I bedded it back on silicon. I know folks don't like silicon but this appeared to be a good use of the stuff. "



Me too.

I have just finally got my windlass together after a repair. Only this afternoon I re- bedded it on a hardwood base using silicon.
Two quid a tube from the cheap shop. Tomorrow I will nip up the bolts pulling it down onto it's silicon gasket. I am pretty sure it will be waterproof, as it was before.

 

[MM5AHO]

If the rebate is deep enough, then I would use Denso Tape (Google it, about £5 a roll). You can easily work the tape into a recess, it is quite sticky and moulds into the shape of things and can be compressed if the recess is not deep enough. In fact a slight amount of compression is very good. I have used extensively on North Sea rigs on all sorts of surfaces, including over junction box flange face gaps to keep water out. A low cost, rough and ready product that withstands a lot of abuse, not good at retaining pressure.

Just anther thought, when I removed my old windlass, it was bedded on silicon between the casting and the GRP deck. The bottom of my windlass is open and the motor and relay are exposed in the void. I have no idea how long it has been on the boat with the silicon but the motor area was dry as above. The windlass was was slightly stuck in position but it came away easy enough with a bit of leverage under the capstan to break the seal, the bed cleaned up very well back to the GRP. After I refurbished the windlass I bedded it back on silicon. I know folks don't like silicon but this appeared to be a good use of the stuff.

+1 for Denso tape.
This is magical stuff, but been around longer than most of us! Like coarse weave cloth tape impregnated with grease, it's stick to apply but mouldable to the shape you want. It's neither load bearing nor adhesive (as in glueing two things together), but very waterproof. It doesn't stay greasy on the surface. After a few months it dries a bit to a sort of dried grease look that doesn't rub off, but repels weather. It's used extensively on antenna connections in coaxial cables on transmitter towers for radio TV, and suchlike.

 

[Poignard]

Thinking about that small 2mm x 2mm rebate, and the possibility that you will want to dismantle the windlass again at some time, I would use something like this.

http://hybris.cms.henkel.com/medias/sys_master/8832335085598.pdf

As it seems to be a silicone sealant, I would phone Loctite Technical department and ask in what way, if any, it is better than silicone sealant bought from a DIY shop.