CT-1 sealant/adhesive

I've used it in preference to Sikaflex. It works at a lower temperature. I also use CT1 Multisolve as a spray-on solvent before application of the sealant.
 
Silicone is brilliant for sealing around a bath, the problem with most jobs that people use it for is not using the product correctly.
I'm sure most don't even know they are using it incorrectly then wonder why one edge becomes unstuck
 
Sika sell a hybrid polymer sealant, just like ct-1 ,claimed to work under water.
A box of 12 can be had for £25.
Makes ct-1 rather pricey ?
 
CT1 is great as you can apply it to damp surfaces. Just make sure that what ever you stick down with it, you'll never want to remove, because you won't be able to.
 
Rappey said:
Silicone is brilliant for sealing around a bath, the problem with most jobs that people use it for is not using the product correctly.
I'm sure most don't even know they are using it incorrectly then wonder why one edge becomes unstuck
Click to expand...
So how do you use it correctly so as to prevent the edges coming unstuck ?

Boo2
 
Plum said:
This one
Click to expand...
That's not the one I was reffering to.
I need to look and see what it is I actually have now as the sheer quantity of sealants and adhesives available is getting crazy.
I do often wonder how a brand can have many different sealants, one for ceramics and tiles, one for masonary etc. Then they have one that does all ?
There is sika multi stick which is also ever build multistick.
 
CT1 is great on my boat, and (sheepishly) I've used it on ROV's with success. without appearing to be the cowboy that it might indicate that I am!
 
Boo2 said:
So how do you use it correctly so as to prevent the edges coming unstuck ?
Click to expand...
I was waiting for that and wondering how I would try to explain .
We often bond a face to a face. That works well as the two sides of adhesion are opposite .
Put the two sides to be sealed at right angles and fill in the join and you have a triangular shaped bead. The two bonded sides touch which leads to failure. Surface tension ?
The bonded faces need to be apart and prefably opposite.
Teak decks have non stick strip on bottom of groove allowing opposite faces to bond.
No strip would create a right angle join leading to failure.
I think the hardest part is finding the right product for what you want to use it for.
A sealant for specifically for glass is impossible to peel off. Even with a razor blade it leaves a trace. Same for upvc .
An alluminium specific sealant will bond aluminium box guttering together like it's welded.
Panel adhesive is way stronger than the wood itself.
Each of the above is specifically for wood, ally etc and not great for much else.
How often have you peeled a line of sealant off? So it didn't stick properly so not the right one for the job ?
Many make claims but rarely live up to the task.
Practical experience of sealants in a very harsh environment offered up by boat enthusiasts is a lot more valuable than what's claimed on the tube.
Acrylic baths and polycarbonate windows can be troublesome, many products claim to be suitable but very few appear to actually work..
Ct-1 seems very much favoured and not seen a bad word against it so far.
 
Its expensive for sure, but I use in on my boat where I am bonding materials e.g. plastic onto fibreglass or wood, where screws aren't possible, it needs to be waterproof, and I don't ever want to remove it. I'm told that it will cure underwater, but never tried it.
 
I've used CT1 for years for all sorts of boat jobs, have found the clear can go a bit grainy so I avoid it, however that may have been my own fault for exceeding the use by date. It lasts at least a year or so from purchase but do check the use by date. Very easy to remove the small plug that forms at the nozzle of a part used tube of it. The question of whether it is suitable to use on a saildrive seal was raised here some time ago & if I remember correctly somebody from the company said that it would be. There is an alternative called OB1 which is the same (or very nearly) stuff, I have also used this and it is just as good, seems the same to me. OB1 is only available from Screwfix and a tenner a tube unless they put the price up. I have absolute faith in it, there might be cheaper alternatives but how much of it are you going to need...
 
V1701 said:
I've used CT1 for years for all sorts of boat jobs, have found the clear can go a bit grainy so I avoid it, however that may have been my own fault for exceeding the use by date. It lasts at least a year or so from purchase but do check the use by date. Very easy to remove the small plug that forms at the nozzle of a part used tube of it. The question of whether it is suitable to use on a saildrive seal was raised here some time ago & if I remember correctly somebody from the company said that it would be. There is an alternative called OB1 which is the same (or very nearly) stuff, I have also used this and it is just as good, seems the same to me. OB1 is only available from Screwfix and a tenner a tube unless they put the price up. I have absolute faith in it, there might be cheaper alternatives but how much of it are you going to need...
Click to expand...

I found the clear to be weak and would not use it again as an adhesive.
 
LONG_KEELER said:
I found the clear to be weak and would not use it again as an adhesive.
Click to expand...

I've used clear and it 'crumbled' in a year outside. It seems to be fine behind perspex (that may be coincidence).

Do the FOAK reckon white or black CT1 will be far better? Or is there a better transparent alternative?
 
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