Crinan Canal

MM5AHO

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I went through the Caledonian and the Crinan Canal again this month. I'd done the same route in 2015, and note that as last time, the difference between the management of these two is obvious. The Caledonian is OK, the Crinan seems to have very little traffic and is crumbling away. I've been round the Mull three times this year so far, so a canal passage to keep up to date seemed in order, and the southerly beat south sounded less inviting.

We were travelling south, so starting at the Crinan end I noted the following.
Calling on their advertised channel of Ch 74 isn't of much use. They don't answer. So you mooch about and wait for an obvious opening and enter the sealock.
We were in late, so decided to stay the night in the basin. Next morning there were two boats wanting to descend into the basin, and 2 boats wanting to rise out of it.
Meanwhile we used the amenities. These are relatively new (was it 2014? I forget). The shower have a complicated timer that doesn't work, the showers just run. There are no hooks in the showers in the dry area, only in the wet part. And only a few. Most sailors have loads of clothing to hang up. The lights in the toilets (mens) don't work. They're automatic (sensor), but click and no light. The showers are uni-sex, but I can imagine some people not liking the smoky glass partitions which are not see through, but are quite translucent when wet.

They're short of water. So they say. Two waiting to descend, 2 waiting to ascend. Lock 14, first one past the basin.
So they emptied the full lock to let us up, then took the 2 yachts above down. That seemed to me to waste a lock's worth of water.
We motored onwards to L13. On arrival we found the lock half full with one sluice open draining it and one open filling it. Over the years I think I have found almost every combination of sluices and gates on arrival at some locks. No-one about, no instructions to do anything other than carry on, so I went to close the upper sluice and drain the lock. No sluice key. I've also seen that plenty of times, no key other than to walk to the next lock. That's why some years ago I made my own and carry it aboard.
On operating the sluices someone appeared to tell me off. They were running water it seems but forgot to tell the people using the lock! So we waited half an hour. I reckon that the ran enough water to replace the wasted lock 14!
At one point I noted how the gate arms are rotting away. At risk of breaking I'd say. To one side there are replacement timbers already cut and shaped, but the grass is growing through them, and they'll soon rot too. They were there last year I seem to remember.
At another point the steel sheet piling is rusted out, and there will be a bank collapse soon.
There are bank collapses anyway, and they put barrier tape round it. That'll help!
Our depth sounder is right. It reads depth under our keel. Our saltwater draft is 1.4m. Lowest centre of channel reading noted was 0.2m. That's a water depth of about 1.6m (less the difference for salt vs fresh water). That might cause some trouble I thought!. Generally there are banks exposed about 0.3-0.4m. I mean the water level is that much lower than normal. Generally the level was 0.4-0.6m below our keel (1.8 - 2.0m water), except in locks where it's deeper.
At the Dunardry locks I noticed some workers starting to repair a landing stage. It's a rusty steel frame (not galvanized you see), and some fibreglass grating was to be fitted. But to a frame that won't last long anyway.
After lock 14 there are two bridges before Dunardry. I noted that the same person who operated the sealock was at both bridges. So a bit short of staff I thought. Until we got to Dunardry where a squad of Scottish Canal Blue tops was evident. So a bit disjointed in people allocations.
Cairnbarn was uneventful, and straightforward, though as before I had yet to recognise a single employee from last year.
I noticed that the adusting mechanism on the lock door axle bearings hasn't been touched. No sign of adjustment or grease anywhere. The signs that warn of the cill's presence are illegible. At one point where a step on a path has broken there's a cone. It was there last year. It fixes the broken step.

At Ardrishaig things were again quite smooth, the two road bridges not having the problem problem we'd encountered last year on 2018's single passage through. (5 times round the Mull).
We started at lock 14 at 0830, and were out the Ardrishaig sealock at 1530.
We passed two boats going the other way at lock 14, and 1 boat later. There was little movement evident.

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Oh well, back to the MoK I guess for the rest of the season.
 
We were in Crinan at the weekend on a lazy trip from Ardfern. Mrs Shuggy had her formative years in Crinan and we were a bit saddened to note how utterly deserted it was. Quite good meal in the hotel bar but it wasn’t exactly mobbed. We didn’t even consider the canal as an option when we came back from Troon after the SIPR. We draw 2.1m in salt water and decided it would be impassable (and much slower/more expensive than the MoK).
 
We were in Crinan at the weekend on a lazy trip from Ardfern. Mrs Shuggy had her formative years in Crinan and we were a bit saddened to note how utterly deserted it was. Quite good meal in the hotel bar but it wasn’t exactly mobbed.

The hotel has deteriorated enormously over the years, though the prices haven't quite fallen to match. Meeting the owner gave me a very good idea why that is.
 
MM5AHOs comments only cover half of it, maintenance work stopped about 4 years ago and there is no word of it ever resuming. A number of the permanent staff were let go last winter and the majority of the staff you see are casuals, there are more permanents in the office than on the canal nowadays.
The remaining permanents hold the view that the canal is being run down deliberately with a view to closure, the obvious reduction in transit traffic will be used to justify that when a major failure occurs, I think we might miss it when it does go and we have to round the Mull in anything over force 6.
I would dispute JDs comments on the Crinan Hotel, it is well staffed and run (by W. Scotland standards) and is busy. The seafood in the bar is really well cooked though the menu is rarely changed, (the 'special' has been sea bass for the last three years), but I enjoy the Arbroath smokies, the scallops and their fish and chips pleases my wife who hates heavy batter. Overall I think it is worth what they charge. The bacon in the rolls in the waterside coffee shop is top quality and their tray bakes are enormous.
 
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An interesting innovation this year is what I call the 'chastity belt', the guy who maintained the sluices has been put on ordinary bridgekeeping duties so when a sluice fails a metal strap device is bolted over the pump so that you can not insert the key, they are multiplying as more sluices fail, serving to add even more time to the passage. Amazing the inventive effort the current management are going to to avoid doing basic maintenance. Big consumers of red and white striped tape which of course has to be renewed every few months.
 
…We were travelling south, so starting at the Crinan end I noted the following.
Calling on their advertised channel of Ch74 isn't of much use. They don't answer. So you mooch about and wait for an obvious opening and enter the sealock.
We were in late, so decided to stay the night in the basin….
Despite requests at virtually every annual users meeting the Crinan Canal are incapable of using VHF. Apparently they keep dropping them in the water and have never heard of lanyards or floaty attachments. Funny how the Cally operates fully on Ch74???
So if you want in, call the sea lock by phone.
…They're short of water. So they say. Two waiting to descend, 2 waiting to ascend. Lock 14, first one past the basin.
So they emptied the full lock to let us up, then took the 2 yachts above down. That seemed to me to waste a lock's worth of water. ….
This year, they have not been very efficient… no I’ll rephrase that, totally disorganised at Crinan (the only bit of the canal we use). Previously we could leave our mooring and be out in 50mins, this year everyone has been 1hr30 – 2hrs both in and out.
Quite depressing really.
 
On Crinan Hotel.
We ate there while in the Crinan basin. Fish and chips is as good as ever, staff same, but I suspect we were only 1 or 2 parties of non-locals eating or drinking.
We overheard some discussion about future of the hotel, but it sounded positive. Good food, reasonable pricing.

On radio use. Yes the Caledonian rely on Ch74 and everyone uses it to really good effect. They know what's coming each way and can plan (other than the rental cruisers). All communications are good. At the sealock (north), a slip of paper with details on issues to be aware of, meant knowing what to face. Every bridge / lock had either base set or handheld (some cases both) and communicated well.
On the Crinan, all we heard in the 2 days was boats at sea both ends, trying in vain to raise a response.
There is a radio at Crinan. After we circled for 25 minutes, they called us and asked us in. But we'd called them many times prior to that.

Quandary said "
"MM5AHOs comments only cover half of it, ..."

That's true, but it was a long enough post anyway!

I predict that the Crinan will be only a walkway (towpath excursions?) in a year or two, and closed to waterborne traffic.
Remember that Parahandy song... "The Mull of Kintyre for me, I do like the wide open sea..." ?
 
I would dispute JDs comments on the Crinan Hotel, it is well staffed and run (by W. Scotland standards) and is busy. The seafood in the bar is really well cooked though the menu is rarely changed, (the 'special' has been sea bass for the last three years), but I enjoy the Arbroath smokies, the scallops and their fish and chips pleases my wife who hates heavy batter. Overall I think it is worth what they charge. The bacon in the rolls in the waterside coffee shop is top quality and their tray bakes are enormous.

The food in the bar and the coffee shop is good, though the latter hasn't changed in 30 years and is no longer eye-wateringly expensive enough to keep out the riff-raff. It's the rest of the operation which is decidedly shabby these days.

Mind you ... thirty years ago I decided to treat my crew to breakfast at the hotel after a long trip from somewhere I can't remember any more. Bangor, maybe. It cost £10 per head, which was a hell of a lot in those days and was the worst breakfast I have ever eaten. Watered-down orange juice, cheap sausages, miserable portions. The bacon rolls at the coffee shop are much better.
 
I predict that the Crinan will be only a walkway (towpath excursions?) in a year or two, and closed to waterborne traffic.
Remember that Parahandy song... "The Mull of Kintyre for me, I do like the wide open sea..." ?

If I can get away from bloody work (I have managed one brief visit to the boat this year) we'll be heading away from Port Bannatyne a week into July, and Plan A is now the Mull, with the canal only if the weather insists.
 
Surprised nobody mentioned the nice new gravel on the paths last year. Just the right size to jam in sailing boot soles and tear lumps out of your decks and cabin soles.
 
Surprised nobody mentioned the nice new gravel on the paths last year. Just the right size to jam in sailing boot soles and tear lumps out of your decks and cabin soles.

The sharp grit over bitmac (including the pairs of buried leds every 4metres all the way to Lochgilphead) was provided by Sustrans a few years back, it is not that kind to bike tyres either.
You will be impressed when the new £2milllion tin shed opens shortly in Ardrishaig, they are currently involved in consultation regarding finding something to do in it.

Two neat wee bare alloy work boats beside me here in Loch Aline, one is calle Tintin and the other is Justin.
 
The sharp grit over bitmac (including the pairs of buried leds every 4metres all the way to Lochgilphead) was provided by Sustrans a few years back, it is not that kind to bike tyres either.
You will be impressed when the new £2milllion tin shed opens shortly in Ardrishaig, they are currently involved in consultation regarding finding something to do in it.

Two neat wee bare alloy work boats beside me here in Loch Aline, one is calle Tintin and the other is Justin.
Built by Herges?
 
Hate to p### in everyone's strawberries but I went through recently with absolutely no problems.
Was solo so hired Mickey and his son Davey - they were brilliant - worth every penny. It was a doddle.
Canal looked stunning. Good craic in the Crinan wee bar with everyone from hairy arsed fishermen to toffs. All canal staff friendly and helpful. Midges fearsome!
 
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