Creating an anchor locker...

[vas]

go Robin go!



although I agree with most posters, I think there's always a fine line between all the compromises (in originality, looks, usability, safety, etc)
If it was one of 100fletchers ever built and one of the 10 still alive, I'd say possibly don't do it.
Since I doubt it's that sort of numbers we are talking about, I'd just do it!

However a horizontal windlass will look (at beast) odd, obscure, out of place, too large on your craft.
SpiD photos is what you should try to achieve.
Namely vertical windlass (assuming you do find one with a solenoid to release the anchor lock), cut on the bow, create a flip cover and a second floor for the chain, waters, windlass.
If you could post a section with the waterline in place, one could easily (?) figure out what fits and how. The bulkhead and windlass will mount way aft (possibly way more than you'd expect!)
The main problem is that you need some depth (to mount the windlass without it poking way above the bow) to store the chain warp underneath AND you still need all that to be someway above the waterline to be able to dump water/mud/etc out from the to be built drain... If you end up with a locker that you can only fit 20m of warp in it, don't bother...

cheers

V.

 

[rbcoomer]

Thanks guys - lots of great ideas and feedback there to ponder. Much appreciated.

I do usually kneel/crawl on the bow of the 14', so would likely do similar rather than stand but it is slippery and far from ideal. The rails were intended as much as a foot stop as harness point, but appreciate the issues of getting back aboard if I did go over. The freeboard is pretty low, but I'd not want to try climbing back up in wet clothes and ladder would certainly be the place to aim for. I hadn't thought of a second hatch, but further forward would certainly help - although a 'sympathetic' install could be a challenge...

I also take the point about disproportionate costs, but the project was intended as much as a learning exercise and fun as anything. I certainly wouldn't have started if I'd have had a view to covering my costs. I have a loose budget of around £5-6K for the whole project and don't expect to get that back. I'm perhaps halfway through in 2.5 years and I look upon it that if I played golf or similar, the the costs per annum would be likely be more. I can also pick up and put down depending on available time and cash-flow. I wouldn't have had the funds without borrowing to go and spend £10K on a similar sized boat in good order that ticked all the boxes - hence the project! Weight is perhaps another issue altogether...

The hull ironically seems a fairly solid layup and I suspect they weren't sure back in the 70's just how much was needed, so added a margin or error - before the bean-counters at Hornby took over anyway...

I'll give some more thought to all the options before I start cutting! :encouragement:

 

[Spi D]

If you go for it, for inspiration the design of the one I had was made so, that access to the locker (winch motor/gear) was from the cuddy by removing the mirror:

Helped somewhat but still was hard to get to. Things on a 20' are pretty compact and space limited despite clever use of wide angle lenses on the camera.
Hardly even room in the locker for tools to work/remove the thing.

 

[rbcoomer]

go Robin go!



although I agree with most posters, I think there's always a fine line between all the compromises (in originality, looks, usability, safety, etc)
If it was one of 100fletchers ever built and one of the 10 still alive, I'd say possibly don't do it.
Since I doubt it's that sort of numbers we are talking about, I'd just do it!

However a horizontal windlass will look (at beast) odd, obscure, out of place, too large on your craft.
SpiD photos is what you should try to achieve.
Namely vertical windlass (assuming you do find one with a solenoid to release the anchor lock), cut on the bow, create a flip cover and a second floor for the chain, waters, windlass.
If you could post a section with the waterline in place, one could easily (?) figure out what fits and how. The bulkhead and windlass will mount way aft (possibly way more than you'd expect!)
The main problem is that you need some depth (to mount the windlass without it poking way above the bow) to store the chain warp underneath AND you still need all that to be someway above the waterline to be able to dump water/mud/etc out from the to be built drain... If you end up with a locker that you can only fit 20m of warp in it, don't bother...

cheers

V.

Ha ha! Thanks Vas, I love the confident response - I somehow can't imagine you ever regretting any of the various stages you've started on and that enthusiasm is contagious.

Yes, I'd agree that if I do the windlass then it needs to sit in the locker as per Spi D's image not on deck. Height isn't great, but I think do-able. I'm unsure of waterline as too long out of the water for any hint to remain, but I can drain under the cuddy into the bilge as there's no floor currently. Perhaps resin in a 40mm plastic waste pipe with removable gauze filter?

It's dried up a bit so will go and get some measurements...

 

[rbcoomer]

If you go for it, for inspiration the design of the one I had was made so, that access to the locker (winch motor/gear) was from the cuddy by removing the mirror:

Helped somewhat but still was hard to get to. Things on a 20' are pretty compact and space limited despite clever use of wide angle lenses on the camera.
Hardly even room in the locker for tools to work/remove the thing.

That's impressive! Alas, I have about half that headroom... Agreed on the access panel however and the previous bulkhead was held in by 4 screws too. I'd probably look at a better fixing/seal, but otherwise keep as large as possible.

 

[Spi D]

For more pics:
http://spidybot.com/salpa-laver/

 

[rbcoomer]

Thanks. Much higher freeboard - more sportscruiser whereas mine's more speedboat, but interesting nonetheless and cracking boat!

Some good Spot The Boat Material in those pics too...