Could you make fiddles with this stuff?

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Solid SAPELE ROUNDED STRIP MOULDING 1m - 15.5 x 6mm

Can't edge the table as it needs to remain the same size for dropping down into a double berth, so need to attache the beading to the top surface of the table jusing panel pins and glue. Wood is only 6mm thick - would panel pins split it?

Any suggestions for alternatives welcome.

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- W
 
Just blunt the points of the panel pin by tapping them on a metal surface first. This will stop them splitting the wood.
 
As Hacker says, just turn the pin over and give it a couple of taps with the pin hammer.
Panel pins on their own won't give you a lot of strength and sooner or later the fiddles will be used as grab handles. I also think 6mm. is too narrow to be stable.
 
Can't you have someone run the table top through a saw to reduce size (or use a power plane) and allow fiddles to be fixed properly to the sides? As others have said, 6mm is too thin for your method, I would go for around 15mm which can be screwed and glued properly without fear of it splitting off.
 
A bare wood to bare wood joint made with epoxy would be stronger than the wood, but I fear that the moulding would break the first time someone grabs the table for support. Something a bit more solid attached to the edge would be a lot stronger. You don't need a table saw, my son is a cabinet maker and cuts stuff to a fraction of a millimetre with a circular saw and a guide. A guide is very simple to make - search for circular saw guide on YouTube.
 
Is the table on the boat or off it. I am not a cabinetmaker ( but my granda was, worked on the Titanic and look what happened there) I can make a straight cut with a handsaw and I have a couple of routers including one with worktop cutters, if you want to borrow one, you can not be too far from me? A short diversion on the way to Oban?
 
Spirit (of Glenans) said:
I think they may also have the corner pieces mentioned by Ladyinbed.
Rock up to a small local cabinetmaker's and ask them to cut ithe table down to required size for a few beer tokens.
Click to expand...

Yes, if he wants to go down the conventional fiddle route the table needs reducing in size. However they also do an 18*18mm bullnose which will work for gluing to the top of the table. and keep it within the existing dimensions.
 
Tranona said:
Yes, if he wants to go down the conventional fiddle route the table needs reducing in size. However they also do an 18*18mm bullnose which will work for gluing to the top of the table. and keep it within the existing dimensions.
Click to expand...

The bullnose would work if screwed or pinned as well. Problem with cockpit tables is that most are veneered ply so any "glue only" joint is only as strong as the veneer.
 
Handheld circular saw with guide, then a wider piece of wood as a fiddle/edging, epoxied and pinned.

If you add a fiddle, won't that make for a rather uncomfortable berth?
 
How thick is the table?

Even if it is only 9mm, adding 15.5mm will have the effect of adding the thickness of the strip laid flat.

If I was fixed on using this wood, and since I have no table saw, I'd be thinking of using a router to put a ledge in the top edge say 5mm down and 6mm deep. Glued with epoxy you'd get 11mm of surface area that way with two directions of adhesion. A few panel pins into pre-drilled holes at 2.5mm from the bottom edge mostly to hold while the glue cures.

Might not look 100% right - but would be the best compromise.
 
I seriously doubt that a table saw is the right tool for this job. You want to move the saw, not the large piece of wood. Circular saw with guide, a corded one can be picked up very cheaply. Get a fine tooth blade on it and make sure the good face of the table is facing downwards when you cut.
 
The offer to help with this still stands
But, - if the table converts in to a bed either the fiddles will need to be quite low rendering them close to ineffective or taller and thence lumpy to lie on?
You get that gripping plastic table mat stuff in quite wide rolls, (Ikea and others); I suspect it would retain anything that many fiddles would, it is cheap, easily stowed when you do not need it, requires minimal work to fit and if you do not like it, still cheap enough to be binned without pain.
 
Go & buy a sharp fine tooth handsaw from B & Q, cut off 5mm & then clean up the last 1mm with a couple of strokes of a smoothing plane. Better still if you can take 10mm from 1 side & then plane 2mm off & not have to cut the other edge.
Pin & glue the bead on the side- assuming that gives you a high enough fiddle. Not exactly difficult is it
 
Gladys' table fiddles are about 1.5" high, and are removable. The table has holes with metal inserts (about 5mm diameter hole) and corresponding pins... Not been used in 13 years of my owner ship
 
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