cork vs teak?

[Designo]

and yet another year later, another related Q
I guess since I'm the OP I don't have to apologize to anyone, just trying to keep relevant threads together for future reference.

So, I'm about to slice the pieces of teak Ι bought last year!
My first attempt at gluing teak will be at the small pieces of flooring for the heads. They are removable so will be done in controlled conditions at Georges' workshop and probably pressed in his large press that he uses for doors and such.

Q: do I slice the teak beams (50X180X2000) at 6 or 7 or 8mm thick?

I'll try and source the glue that you recommended (last time I tried to find it was import from the States though...) and obviously sand it afterwards for a uniform thickness feel with one of these special sanding angle grinder things (what around 300mm in dia and featuring a lip all around to keep the thing flat)

I'd be tempted to go for 7 so that I have at least a decade to do a few sandings before it disappears, but would be happy with 6mm if its considered enough for two-three sandings.

cheers

V.

The thicker you have, the longer it will last. Not mainly because you can sand it more times, but it will not dry out and disintegrate...

 

[vas]

The thicker you have, the longer it will last. Not mainly because you can sand it more times, but it will not dry out and disintegrate...

thanks, so 8mm would be I guess better. Don't want to go too thick as the stock I have wont be enough and I'm adding extra weight...

What do the big companies use btw? I guess they cannot always prefab slabs and glue them in place?

cheers

V.

 

[Designo]

thanks, so 8mm would be I guess better. Don't want to go too thick as the stock I have wont be enough and I'm adding extra weight...

What do the big companies use btw? I guess they cannot always prefab slabs and glue them in place?

cheers

V.

In my eyes, anything under 12 mm is too thin on a new boat, unless it is a pure racer. But I am afraid you will find many brands with thinner just for cost savings...

 

[MapisM]

In my eyes, anything under 12 mm is too thin on a new boat

Do you mean for a structural wooden deck, or just for covering an existing deck, with no structural function?
For the first, I'd call too thin anything under 15 rather than 12 mm.
But IIRC, what Vas is doing is the latter, even if his boat is built in wood.
And for such application, anything above 7 or 8 is just a waste of money and useless weight, imho.

 

[Designo]

Do you mean for a structural wooden deck, or just for covering an existing deck, with no structural function?
For the first, I'd call too thin anything under 15 rather than 12 mm.
But IIRC, what Vas is doing is the latter, even if his boat is built in wood.
And for such application, anything above 7 or 8 is just a waste of money and useless weight, imho.

I was responding to what the "big companies use", which in my world is on top of GRP.

 

[vas]

maybe my Q wasn't formulated properly.
Lars, 12mm may be fine for a 100+ft yacht, but for a 43ft planning hull with 15mm (new!) ply decks and a 280gr/m2 mat+epoxy, what should be appropriate?
I have 7 pieces of teak 50X160(up to 180)X2000(and up to 2400) mm to chop.
Slicing them at around 7-8mm would be perfect (as in get enough to cover all the decks I want) but don't want to do something silly

cheers

V.

 

[Designo]

Slicing them at around 7-8mm would be perfect (as in get enough to cover all the decks I want) but don't want to do something silly

Nothing is silly and 8 mm is better than 6 mm if your idea is to keep the boat...

 

[Runcible]

Hi Vas
Here is a thread with good info on cork, I am considering Marine Deck 2000 on my Dutch Steel.
cork for decks

Some quotes from the thread which caught my attention.

"elastic, softer, warm in winter, cold in the summer, 7 times better temperature insulating"
"a deck 10 Year warranty"
"tried to scratch it with a nail without success"

Hi Vas
Here is a thread with good info on cork, I am considering Marine Deck 2000 on my Dutch Steel.
cork for decks

Some quotes from the thread which caught my attention.

"elastic, softer, warm in winter, cold in the summer, 7 times better temperature insulating"
"a deck 10 Year warranty"
"tried to scratch it with a nail without success"

Tom,
Did you end up getting the cork deck? I am also building a Dutch Steel boat and considering Marinedeck 2000.
Runcible

 

[J12345T]

Right O.

So I have just replaced all my teak with Marinedek cork on my 2008 Princess 50/3. My conclusions:-

My old teak was leaking badly so it had to be replaced.
It looks great but it is different from teak so do it all or do none of it.
It is both cooler in summer and warmer in winter than teak.
It seems very (very) hard wearing. We have a 3yr old Labrador and the teak has shown no signs of wear.
It is a more flexible material than teak (but just as hard) and as such it lends NO structural strength to the substrate so caution there.
It is cost effective to buy but I found it was expensive to fit but that was due to having to repair the rotten substrate.
The planks are very slightly wider than teak so be specific about how you want it to look.
It does bleed colour very slightly but I expect this will stop at a point.
Very easy to maintain. You just wash it like the rest of the boat. No oils or other treatments.
I did notice that it will soak up spilt oil slightly (drop of olive oil) but after a while it washes out.

In conclusion it was expensive (for the reason stated) but I love it and would recommend it.

Cheers,

James.