Coolant change time....

Goldie

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Every time I change the coolant on my Prima 50, it gushes all over the place before I manage to get a pipe or funnel anywhere useful. I have a plan....... I started thinking how I could put in a tap for future use and reckon I've come up with an affordable solution. If I remove the drain plug in the side of the block and replace it with a male/male connector (3/4" I think, but I'll need to check) onto which I can screw a seacock with a spigot on the other end (to take a hose), I should be able to empty the block into a container without flooding the cabin sole. When old coolant is empty, close the seacock, (wire-locked closed for safety), remove the spigot and replace it with the blanking plug (belt and braces) and then re-fill.

There, a plan. Am I being too simplistic? Do those who should know, see a flaw in my plan? Any thoughts as to potential problems would be appreciated before I move from the reconnaissance phase to the execution!

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Becky

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Don't you have a bit of rubber plumbing in your system, to a water pump orsomething like that, into which you could introduce a y-piece to which you can attach your tap. Seems to me an easier approach, which if it fails can be replaced by the original pipe? Basic idea seems very sensible. Might give it consideration myself.

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Ships_Cat

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It is possible to get bleed fittings similar to those which cars have for bleeding their brakes but larger and with proper hosetails on them ie you loosen it and it lets the fluid flow through it.

Some engines have them fitted as standard instead of just a plain plug for draining the coolant. At least some Volvo Penta MD22 engines here in NZ have them and that engine is based on the Prima 50 so maybe will fit - they may be available as a Volvo spare unless the NZ Volvo people fitted them here as a local extra.

I could not say where you would otherwise buy them in the UK, however - perhaps an industrial hose specialist.

John

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Colin_S

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If you've got a 3/4" fitting in the block, how about a reducer and one of <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?ts=59455&id=65868>these</A> normally used for draining down water / central heating systems. Needs a spanner or pliers to open it so no chance of it being undone by accident.

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Goldie

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Thanks for the ideas folks, I will be following them up. The rubber pipe and T-piece idea is sound, but I'll have to see if there's a suitable low point in the system. I shall be speaking to Volvo to ascertain the thread sixe and to ask if the drain as fitted in NZ is a proprietry fitting, but for elegant simplicity, I like the look of the central heating drain cock at a cost of 65p. Still open to any other suggestions, but for the moment, thanks all.

Ian

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TrueBlue

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Beware of cheap cocks..

'Suppose the title is open to misinterpretation...

I'd be wary of (cheap) drain cocks - dunno why, but the sealing bit is a manky rubber washer which eventually weeps and fails. Better it would be if you could devise something with a shut off valve and a blanking plug in case the valve failed.

True to posts here, I don't immediately have your exact solution to hand... sorry.

I say all this 'cos my lovely Beta engine has - for its oil drain - a ball valve shut off, pump, plus blanking plug at the end. Got me thinking. Sometimes you need belts AND braces, just need a bit of ingenuity.

Remember engines vibrate, domestic water systems don't.

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Goldie

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Re: Beware of cheap cocks..

Thanks for that. I'm a firm believer in belt and braces so a blanking plug will be the fail safe mechanism - I might even tap it in to the end of the drain if the wall is thick enough.. I've already found a drain similar to the one shown @ £0.65 and this one is to British Standards (used to mean somwething too). The jury is still out, but all the ideas are food for thought. I too have a plumbed in oil change system and wouldn't be without it. Just the coolant system to sort now......!

Cheers.

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