Continue 200 gallons aluminium diesel tank repair idea to put a few small new tanks inside the big old tank.

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It was leaking when purchasing as the bilge has a inche fuel and water mixture in it. The surveyor also mentioned it and told me further investigation for the tank needed. But as the tank is not accessible. And I have no knowledge about boat whatsoever at that time. This is my first boat. And I was thinking even one tank is good enough for me because I mostly use it on the river. So, never mind, I just bought it even though I knew it. And I plan to deal with these problems after purchase.
 
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Thinking out of the box.

If you can get inside to remove the baffle can you get inside and clean the tank.

You may be able to get someone to spray in a fiberglass lining inside the tank using the existing as a mold creating a new tank.

Pressure testing before refilling would confirm no leaks. If there is a leak get the people back to respray.
 
It was leaking when purchasing as the bilge has a inche fuel and water mixture in it. The surveyor also mentioned it and told me further investigation for the tank needed. But as the tank is not accessible. And I have no knowledge about boat whatsoever at that time. This is my first boat. And I was thinking even one tank is good enough for me because I mostly use it on the river. So, never mind, I just bought it even though I knew it. And I plan to deal with these problems after purchase.
I went through terrible problems with my first boat. But I put it down to learning experience, of course my first boat was a lot smaller (and cheaper ?). Philosophically speaking, boating is a hobby that you learn through trial an error. But don’t give up, get some boatyards to give you some quotes or do what the previous owner did and pass it on.....
 
Thank you Rogershaw. I think I can remove the baffle plates and clean it. But problem is after rebuild a inside fiberglass or sealer layer, it still need the baffle plates to support the tank and stop the whole tank fuel running in a big movement inside. That's why I am thinking to put multiple small tanks instead. (Some one give me this idea in another thread)

Thank you Bouba. Yes, I also think repair and find a way to solve a problem is one of the fun thing of owning a boat. I enjoyed doing that.
 
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As drastic as it sounds you may well find removing the tanks via the hull will be cheaper and easier. GRP under an expert's hand can be repaired all but invisible to the naked eye and you may be surprised at the cost. Get a quote for the work of this before tearing down the interior which may not be so easily be repaired.
 
NEVER USE GLASSFIBRE TO REPAIR A FUEL TANK - its not fuel resistant and will contaminate your fuel and cause more serious problems.

If you have full access to it you can reline it and retain your structural integrity and you do this with the correct epoxy and this is painted or rollered on, if your tank has no major defects and is generally solid and you can clean it then this is perfectly viable, if you have the bolt on baffles you can remove them and paint behind them and refit them and coat the outside of them and around their mounting points to ensure there are no leaks, epoxy has structural strength and if you add the appropriate reinforcing mat you can lay it up like GRP.

One major issue, if you use a reinforcing mat then ensure it is suitable for the task as there are many types around, and ensure it is totally covered and saturated as if not it causes "wicking" where fuel gets into a piece of exposed mat and wicks through the matting and you get another leak.
 
This project going to start. I will fancy using epoxy to seal inside the big old tank after I cut the big hole to gain access. That may be earlier than put several small tanks in it.
 
If you go to at atlinc.com the have a method of lining the tank with a bladder that is made to the size of your existing tank and they have a step by step description of what is required to fit. They have a UK office as well. It’s what I’ll be doing when the time comes.
 
If you go to at atlinc.com the have a method of lining the tank with a bladder that is made to the size of your existing tank and they have a step by step description of what is required to fit. They have a UK office as well. It’s what I’ll be doing when the time comes.

That is exactly my thinking. I'd avoid more and smaller tanks - not only is it more to manage and think about as well as more to go wrong, it will reduce your usable capacity. Having worked on a/c and seen bag tanks work in extreme temperature and live through high G and turbulence I'd have no hesitation in saying put a bladder inside the tank with a couple of caveats - firstly make sure. you get a good one (they aren't cheap). Secondly check that not having baffles won't cause problems. I'd really try to get this right first time for a couple of reasons - first is that fuel problems usually happen when the sea state is poor and you're being chucked about a bit, which is the about worst time to be faffing around with fuel tanks. Second reason is that you know in your heart you'll only end up paying twice (and possibly more second time) if you try something that isn't already proven.
 
Right!
Okay, I will plan to first try to find the leaking point and repair it once I can access the tank. Then using a bag tank if it's unrepairable. The multiple small tanks will only consider if none of the above solutions words.
 
My money is still on take the bed out, jigsaw a really big hole in the floor and take the tank out.
Fit new or repaired tank - reinforce floor with wooden beams, big piece(s) of marine ply, much like engine bay access on many UK designed boats.
Jobs a good un' with great access for any future surprises.
 
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This is American made. This starboard side tank is completely under the bathroom. It has no room to move it out even I take the bathroom out. The only way to get it out it cut a big hole from the sideway from the outside which I am trying to avoid.

Part of the tank under a closet. So I should be able to cut an 80cm X 50cm hole on top of the tank to gain access.
 
No room to put another tank.

The leaking point should be at the bottom as I already used a pump to remove all the fuel. There is a little fuel left in the bottom, it still leaking into the bilge in this circumstance. That means the leaking point should be at the bottom. I am going to cut the top after I finish my canopy repair.
 
do you or the boat realy need such a big tank ?
fit a smaller tank in the central part and move on ?
+1
I have 1200lt of diesel tanks. Once this year I dared filling up to the 850lt mark - thank god nothing collapsed :-)
Still after a summer boating (4+ weeks onboard my way though) I've got 400lt left.

V.
 
To be honest, I don't need to use that much fuel as I currently only using her in the Thames. Just trying to learn to fix as many things as possible. It will be nice to fix it to make the boat has original fuel capacity. If it can't be fixed, a smaller tank or a bag tank put inside it will be an acceptable final solution.
 
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