Jubilee clip - round the sea cock - bare the end of the wire
<hr width=100% size=1>If you have time please visit my web site -
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.michaelbriant.com/sailing>http://www.michaelbriant.com/sailing</A>
We normally solder a small 5 mm wide strip to the end of the wire and bend the top end out so that it can't slip out from behind the stainless jubilee clip, if you need to remove it often, then solder a spade fitting to the wire that will push onto the tang left at the bottom of the clip, then add a protective coating.
I hope this helps.
Avagoodweekend............
Old Salt Oz /forums/images/icons/cool.gif Growing old is unavoidable. However, growing up is still optional.
If the seacocks are bronze, they dont need bonding, if they arent bronze and are fine, leave them alone. You could make matters worse, by bnding them, making a cell, because of different resistances in connections etc. Best to leave well enough alone. My seacocks are Blakes and are all independant, never (with lump of wood firmly in hand) had a problem with them and they are regulary inspected.
Agree totally. Last three boats we have had, I have spent happy hours taking the yards of decaying wiring out that (allegedly) bonded the through hulls etc together.
On our last wooden boat I also had to replace a length of strake underwater that had decomposed because of the electrolytic action of a misguided attempt to protect the prop with an anode.
On our current boat I wondered why the shaft anode erodes quickly, whilst next to a hardly eroding hull anode. Read the small print on Volvo engines "The gearbox is electrically isolated from the engine...." That will explain it then!
Anyway, I digress. Proper bronze through hull fittings often need no cathodic protection.
There's an <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.mgduff.co.uk/Electro-chemical_decay_in_wood_vessels.pdf>interesting article</A> on this on the MGDuff website.