bikedaft
Well-known member
3gm30f has 3, one for each cylinderThe only diesel engine I had with a decompressor would not decompress selectively - only all cylinders together.
3gm30f has 3, one for each cylinderThe only diesel engine I had with a decompressor would not decompress selectively - only all cylinders together.
I have been shown this from a thread on Facebook. It's bottom half of a 3gm30 injector with compression guage screwed in. And holding plate fits as well!There are, depending on the kit you can get dummy injectors and adapters for glow plug holes
I have just been asked to make some adapters for use in place of Volvo Penta KBAL injectors for a customer
So get old injector, pull guts, weld up fuel inlet. Drill and tap fuel return hole to take pipe fitting you want for guage.I have been shown this from a thread on Facebook. It's bottom half of a 3gm30 injector with compression guage screwed in. And holding plate fits as well!
Because not all sizes and types can be bought off the shelf as most kits seem to assume you have a vehicle engine with glow plugsI don't have glow plugs, just injectors. Why are you making adapters if they can be bought off the shelf?
how much specialist time can you buy for £20 plus cost of old unit
Specialist diesel injector shop pop tested 3 injectors, reshimmed all 3,with print readouts of pressures before and after. £20 cash. I know.how much specialist time can you buy for £20 plus cost of old unit
If only i knew which yanmar tractor was the equivalent.Because not all sizes and types can be bought off the shelf as most kits seem to assume you have a vehicle engine with glow plugs
Same as the injector removers, easy if you have a vehicle but we make the Volvo TAMD removal tool as they are uncommon, and a tad pricy for the genuine Volvo tool
If you can send me some dimensions from your injector I can make a dummy injector with a PCL line fitting on or similar?If only i knew which yanmar tractor was the equivalent.
COMPRESSION TEST ADAPTER - SMALL
Also Kiene Diesel Tool part no. C3083 i believe is correct for anyone passing this way.
Yes you won a watch there but perhaps stole a dealSpecialist diesel injector shop pop tested 3 injectors, reshimmed all 3,with print readouts of pressures before and after. £20 cash. I know.
PM sentIf you can send me some dimensions from your injector I can make a dummy injector with a PCL line fitting on or similar?
And respondedPM sent
That's amazing, a whole new world opens up.If you do a leakage test you may find out what the exact issue is leakage test
Leakdown Test
The leakdown test measures how well the cylinder is sealing. This is done by inserting compressed air (around 100 psi) into the cylinder at TDC and then measuring how much is lost from the seals (there will always be some). This is done by two gauges on the leakdown tester—see the photos for more information on how to use the tester.
As with the compression test, you want the numbers to be within a percentage of each other. The leakdown test can also help you pinpoint the problem before tearing down the motor by listening for the air escaping the cylinder. Once the cylinder is pumped up, listen for air escaping from the cylinder and where the sound is coming from. Here is a list of what to listen for:
Air escaping out the PCV, road draft tube, oil dipstick, or oil cap: indicates that the piston rings in that cylinder are worn and pressure is getting past them, or that the cylinder itself is scored or damaged.
Bubbles or pressure in the coolant: indicates that the head gasket has been compromised or the cylinder head is warped or cracked.
Hissing or whistles from the intake: indicates that the intake valve seat is not seating properly or there's a bent valve.
Hissing or whistles from the exhaust outlet or manifold: indicates a worn exhaust seat or bent valve.
Sounds from a cylinder adjacent to the one you are testing: indicates a bad head gasket or warped head.
If you find that the cylinders are making and holding compression, it lets you know that your power issues are one of the basic three things needed to make power: fuel, air, or spark. These generally tend to be much cheaper than a problem in one of the cylinders, which usually leads to a teardown and rebuild. The compression and leakdown tests can tell you the health of the inside of the engine without a computer and without a teardown.
Probably going to go with Euro Air Line fittings on the dummy injector so that they will work with both compression testing and leak down kitsAmazon.com
You may need an adaptor to fit your injector hold which you are talking about to DinghyMan
Hmm, but surely no point in doing leakdown if compression good?I never bothered with compression testing a diesel. It only tells you there is or isn't a problem. Leak down tests tell you so much more.
Hmm, but surely no point in doing leakdown if compression good?
A thought, but couldn't you do something similar without compressed air or anything but the engine? Turn the engine MANUALLY until it's at as high a compression as you can manage, and simply hold it there. If the force required to hold it diminishes, then the compression is being lost, and all the other symptoms you describe can be looked for. On most older engines with relatively low compression, you might actually be able to turn it through maximum compression, in which case holding it just before that point would do the trick.If you do a leakage test you may find out what the exact issue is leakage test
Leakdown Test
The leakdown test measures how well the cylinder is sealing. This is done by inserting compressed air (around 100 psi) into the cylinder at TDC and then measuring how much is lost from the seals (there will always be some). This is done by two gauges on the leakdown tester—see the photos for more information on how to use the tester.
As with the compression test, you want the numbers to be within a percentage of each other. The leakdown test can also help you pinpoint the problem before tearing down the motor by listening for the air escaping the cylinder. Once the cylinder is pumped up, listen for air escaping from the cylinder and where the sound is coming from. Here is a list of what to listen for:
Air escaping out the PCV, road draft tube, oil dipstick, or oil cap: indicates that the piston rings in that cylinder are worn and pressure is getting past them, or that the cylinder itself is scored or damaged.
Bubbles or pressure in the coolant: indicates that the head gasket has been compromised or the cylinder head is warped or cracked.
Hissing or whistles from the intake: indicates that the intake valve seat is not seating properly or there's a bent valve.
Hissing or whistles from the exhaust outlet or manifold: indicates a worn exhaust seat or bent valve.
Sounds from a cylinder adjacent to the one you are testing: indicates a bad head gasket or warped head.
If you find that the cylinders are making and holding compression, it lets you know that your power issues are one of the basic three things needed to make power: fuel, air, or spark. These generally tend to be much cheaper than a problem in one of the cylinders, which usually leads to a teardown and rebuild. The compression and leakdown tests can tell you the health of the inside of the engine without a computer and without a teardown.