Compression testing. Is this a thing?

IanCC

Active member
Joined
14 Oct 2019
Messages
617
Visit site
There are, depending on the kit you can get dummy injectors and adapters for glow plug holes

I have just been asked to make some adapters for use in place of Volvo Penta KBAL injectors for a customer
I have been shown this from a thread on Facebook. It's bottom half of a 3gm30 injector with compression guage screwed in. And holding plate fits as well!
 

Attachments

  • FB_IMG_16977493835642458.jpg
    FB_IMG_16977493835642458.jpg
    486.8 KB · Views: 13

IanCC

Active member
Joined
14 Oct 2019
Messages
617
Visit site
I have been shown this from a thread on Facebook. It's bottom half of a 3gm30 injector with compression guage screwed in. And holding plate fits as well!
So get old injector, pull guts, weld up fuel inlet. Drill and tap fuel return hole to take pipe fitting you want for guage.
 

DinghyMan

Well-known member
Joined
24 Jan 2006
Messages
1,842
Location
West Yorkshire
www.ff-systems.co.uk
I don't have glow plugs, just injectors. Why are you making adapters if they can be bought off the shelf?
Because not all sizes and types can be bought off the shelf as most kits seem to assume you have a vehicle engine with glow plugs

Same as the injector removers, easy if you have a vehicle but we make the Volvo TAMD removal tool as they are uncommon, and a tad pricy for the genuine Volvo tool
 

IanCC

Active member
Joined
14 Oct 2019
Messages
617
Visit site
Because not all sizes and types can be bought off the shelf as most kits seem to assume you have a vehicle engine with glow plugs

Same as the injector removers, easy if you have a vehicle but we make the Volvo TAMD removal tool as they are uncommon, and a tad pricy for the genuine Volvo tool
If only i knew which yanmar tractor was the equivalent.
COMPRESSION TEST ADAPTER - SMALL
Also Kiene Diesel Tool part no. C3083 i believe is correct for anyone passing this way.
 

rogerthebodger

Well-known member
Joined
3 Nov 2001
Messages
13,777
Visit site
If you do a leakage test you may find out what the exact issue is leakage test

Leakdown Test
The leakdown test measures how well the cylinder is sealing. This is done by inserting compressed air (around 100 psi) into the cylinder at TDC and then measuring how much is lost from the seals (there will always be some). This is done by two gauges on the leakdown tester—see the photos for more information on how to use the tester.
As with the compression test, you want the numbers to be within a percentage of each other. The leakdown test can also help you pinpoint the problem before tearing down the motor by listening for the air escaping the cylinder. Once the cylinder is pumped up, listen for air escaping from the cylinder and where the sound is coming from. Here is a list of what to listen for:
Air escaping out the PCV, road draft tube, oil dipstick, or oil cap: indicates that the piston rings in that cylinder are worn and pressure is getting past them, or that the cylinder itself is scored or damaged.

Bubbles or pressure in the coolant: indicates that the head gasket has been compromised or the cylinder head is warped or cracked.
Hissing or whistles from the intake: indicates that the intake valve seat is not seating properly or there's a bent valve.
Hissing or whistles from the exhaust outlet or manifold: indicates a worn exhaust seat or bent valve.
Sounds from a cylinder adjacent to the one you are testing: indicates a bad head gasket or warped head.
If you find that the cylinders are making and holding compression, it lets you know that your power issues are one of the basic three things needed to make power: fuel, air, or spark. These generally tend to be much cheaper than a problem in one of the cylinders, which usually leads to a teardown and rebuild. The compression and leakdown tests can tell you the health of the inside of the engine without a computer and without a teardown.
 

IanCC

Active member
Joined
14 Oct 2019
Messages
617
Visit site
If you do a leakage test you may find out what the exact issue is leakage test

Leakdown Test
The leakdown test measures how well the cylinder is sealing. This is done by inserting compressed air (around 100 psi) into the cylinder at TDC and then measuring how much is lost from the seals (there will always be some). This is done by two gauges on the leakdown tester—see the photos for more information on how to use the tester.
As with the compression test, you want the numbers to be within a percentage of each other. The leakdown test can also help you pinpoint the problem before tearing down the motor by listening for the air escaping the cylinder. Once the cylinder is pumped up, listen for air escaping from the cylinder and where the sound is coming from. Here is a list of what to listen for:
Air escaping out the PCV, road draft tube, oil dipstick, or oil cap: indicates that the piston rings in that cylinder are worn and pressure is getting past them, or that the cylinder itself is scored or damaged.

Bubbles or pressure in the coolant: indicates that the head gasket has been compromised or the cylinder head is warped or cracked.
Hissing or whistles from the intake: indicates that the intake valve seat is not seating properly or there's a bent valve.
Hissing or whistles from the exhaust outlet or manifold: indicates a worn exhaust seat or bent valve.
Sounds from a cylinder adjacent to the one you are testing: indicates a bad head gasket or warped head.
If you find that the cylinders are making and holding compression, it lets you know that your power issues are one of the basic three things needed to make power: fuel, air, or spark. These generally tend to be much cheaper than a problem in one of the cylinders, which usually leads to a teardown and rebuild. The compression and leakdown tests can tell you the health of the inside of the engine without a computer and without a teardown.
That's amazing, a whole new world opens up.
I guess there is no "petrol or diesel" leakdown testers, unlike compression testers, because they all operate at circa 100psi. Is that right?
 

rogerthebodger

Well-known member
Joined
3 Nov 2001
Messages
13,777
Visit site
Hmm, but surely no point in doing leakdown if compression good?

If a diesel runs it ha enough compression to start it may lose power due to leakage via the valves piston rings etc when running

A leakdown test will show you this where a simple compression test will not

You can do both if you wish but the leak down test will show you where the fault is where a compression test will not
 

AntarcticPilot

Well-known member
Joined
4 May 2007
Messages
10,702
Location
Cambridge, UK
www.cooperandyau.co.uk
If you do a leakage test you may find out what the exact issue is leakage test

Leakdown Test
The leakdown test measures how well the cylinder is sealing. This is done by inserting compressed air (around 100 psi) into the cylinder at TDC and then measuring how much is lost from the seals (there will always be some). This is done by two gauges on the leakdown tester—see the photos for more information on how to use the tester.
As with the compression test, you want the numbers to be within a percentage of each other. The leakdown test can also help you pinpoint the problem before tearing down the motor by listening for the air escaping the cylinder. Once the cylinder is pumped up, listen for air escaping from the cylinder and where the sound is coming from. Here is a list of what to listen for:
Air escaping out the PCV, road draft tube, oil dipstick, or oil cap: indicates that the piston rings in that cylinder are worn and pressure is getting past them, or that the cylinder itself is scored or damaged.

Bubbles or pressure in the coolant: indicates that the head gasket has been compromised or the cylinder head is warped or cracked.
Hissing or whistles from the intake: indicates that the intake valve seat is not seating properly or there's a bent valve.
Hissing or whistles from the exhaust outlet or manifold: indicates a worn exhaust seat or bent valve.
Sounds from a cylinder adjacent to the one you are testing: indicates a bad head gasket or warped head.
If you find that the cylinders are making and holding compression, it lets you know that your power issues are one of the basic three things needed to make power: fuel, air, or spark. These generally tend to be much cheaper than a problem in one of the cylinders, which usually leads to a teardown and rebuild. The compression and leakdown tests can tell you the health of the inside of the engine without a computer and without a teardown.
A thought, but couldn't you do something similar without compressed air or anything but the engine? Turn the engine MANUALLY until it's at as high a compression as you can manage, and simply hold it there. If the force required to hold it diminishes, then the compression is being lost, and all the other symptoms you describe can be looked for. On most older engines with relatively low compression, you might actually be able to turn it through maximum compression, in which case holding it just before that point would do the trick.

This is a thought experiment - I haven't actually tried it except to get a general idea as to whether the compression on all three cylinders on my VP2003 is about the same. But you could go all scientific and use (for example) an old-fashioned torque wrench (the kind with a pointer moving over a scale) to see if the torque required to hold against the compression remains constant when holding the crankshaft at a specific angle.

I'm in Hong Kong, 5913 miles or so away from Capricious as the crow flies , so I can't try it!
 

rogerthebodger

Well-known member
Joined
3 Nov 2001
Messages
13,777
Visit site
Well In thory you could do that may be an a single cylinder but on a multi cylinder the other cylinders would interfeat with the test and the friction would ffect the resistance.

The ait need continuous fees so yon can lisson for where the leakage is going
 
Top