westernsailor
Well-Known Member
Do you close the seacock when you leave the boat ?
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Closing seacocks?
- Thread starter westernsailor
- Start date
timevans2000
Well-Known Member
yes. But unless your internal plumbing is in a poor state or repair, it probably does not give a great more security. What it does do is make sure that they stay in good working order by moving them regularly
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Chris_Robb
Well-Known Member
I think the engine seacock is the most important - especially if you have an oil cooler inthe circuit. Volvos especially have been known to rust through and sink the boat. Normally a drible will be seen first - followed some months later by a woosh.
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sailorman
Well-Known Member
all closed except cockpit drains.
as these r 38m/m i guess u may as well leave them all open, but have always closed & isolate electrics both pos + neg
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as these r 38m/m i guess u may as well leave them all open, but have always closed & isolate electrics both pos + neg
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StugeronSteve
Well-Known Member
All closed except over winter when galley seacock is left open to drain de-humidifier. I also withdraw and blank the log impeller whenever leaving the boat in order to reduce fouling.
<hr width=100% size=1>Bring me that horizon.
<hr width=100% size=1>Bring me that horizon.
Mirelle
N/A
What else are they there for?
Yes, always. Log impeller housed, electrics off at isolating switch. I am amazed at how many people leave the cockpit drain seacocks open - presumably because they do not have a cockpit cover?
As has been said, this has as much to do with knowing they work as with keeping the boat afloat until next weekend. We have a swinging mooring - I dare say if you are in a marina it is less critical.
<hr width=100% size=1>Que scais-je?
Yes, always. Log impeller housed, electrics off at isolating switch. I am amazed at how many people leave the cockpit drain seacocks open - presumably because they do not have a cockpit cover?
As has been said, this has as much to do with knowing they work as with keeping the boat afloat until next weekend. We have a swinging mooring - I dare say if you are in a marina it is less critical.
<hr width=100% size=1>Que scais-je?
brianhumber
Well-Known Member
Re: Use them or Sink
Sailed on ships where it took 30mins plus of manual hard graft to shut the main condenser valves.
Had to build concrete boxes around valves to stop water coming in.
Seen plenty of small craft where it would take a hammer to move any valve.
Never want to hear again 'it came off in my hand ' with respect to cocks and valves
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Sailed on ships where it took 30mins plus of manual hard graft to shut the main condenser valves.
Had to build concrete boxes around valves to stop water coming in.
Seen plenty of small craft where it would take a hammer to move any valve.
Never want to hear again 'it came off in my hand ' with respect to cocks and valves
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StephenW
Well-Known Member
I don't close:
- Engine cock (more damage likely through forgetting to open, also raw water strainer above water level)
- cockpit drains
- sinkand wash basin
But I do:
- heads inlet and outlet
I also check and service all sea cocks and check lumbing each year to ensure reliable operation.
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- Engine cock (more damage likely through forgetting to open, also raw water strainer above water level)
- cockpit drains
- sinkand wash basin
But I do:
- heads inlet and outlet
I also check and service all sea cocks and check lumbing each year to ensure reliable operation.
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MainlySteam
Well-Known Member
Yes, all except the deck drains which are taken inside the hull to below waterline with very robust hose (they are taken inside the hull because they are also plumbed for rainwater collection to freshwater tanks).
If inclined to forget to open it, hang a reminder on the engine seawater service seacock so as to remember before starting the engine. The engine key is an option for that if berthed in a secure area.
We turn all power off too, except the house battery maintenance charge from the solar panels, and take the shore power cable on board. Apart from safety has the added advantage of when a kind person phones us to tell us that we have left the nav lights on, which occasionally happens, we can confidently tell them it is only the sun reflecting through the lenses.
We have a deck washdown pump - we are super careful with that, isolating it every time after use and definitiely when leaving the boat to avoid it pumping the boat full of seawater should there be a failure on the high pressure side pipework.
John
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If inclined to forget to open it, hang a reminder on the engine seawater service seacock so as to remember before starting the engine. The engine key is an option for that if berthed in a secure area.
We turn all power off too, except the house battery maintenance charge from the solar panels, and take the shore power cable on board. Apart from safety has the added advantage of when a kind person phones us to tell us that we have left the nav lights on, which occasionally happens, we can confidently tell them it is only the sun reflecting through the lenses.
We have a deck washdown pump - we are super careful with that, isolating it every time after use and definitiely when leaving the boat to avoid it pumping the boat full of seawater should there be a failure on the high pressure side pipework.
John
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Victorious
Well-Known Member
I know of a boatyard (wont mention which) where staff arrived in the morning to see only the top 4ft of the mast... of a brand new boat... above the water near thier pontoon.
Things got worse when it was realised that the new owners had left thier home 150 miles away and were on route to take over thier new pride and joy..... Oh dear....
Later found out that a brand new hose to a brand new loo had split... and the brand new seacock had not been closed
I close seacocks when they not needed open.
Some would discribe me as a fanatic about em.... But I am a fanatic with dry feet
<hr width=100% size=1>www.victorious.co.uk
Things got worse when it was realised that the new owners had left thier home 150 miles away and were on route to take over thier new pride and joy..... Oh dear....
Later found out that a brand new hose to a brand new loo had split... and the brand new seacock had not been closed
I close seacocks when they not needed open.
Some would discribe me as a fanatic about em.... But I am a fanatic with dry feet
<hr width=100% size=1>www.victorious.co.uk
TheBoatman
Well-Known Member
I always close the seacocks, turn off the power and remove the log. Having said that in my YC there is a standing order to leave all seacocks open, the main reason for this is that if a dinghy member goes to use a boat they very often don't think about the seacocks and just tear off in the boat, because they are not used to thinking about such things.
Whilst I beleive that it is bad practice I would have to admit that with 5 boats afloat for 9 months of the year we haven't sunk one yet in 20 years?
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Whilst I beleive that it is bad practice I would have to admit that with 5 boats afloat for 9 months of the year we haven't sunk one yet in 20 years?
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qsiv
Well-Known Member
Re: Use them or Sink
Our plastic ones never get stiff or corroded ...
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Our plastic ones never get stiff or corroded ...
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tony_brighton
Well-Known Member
yes
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BlueSkyNick
Well-Known Member
I forgot to open the engine sea cock once, when I had to move the boat in a hurry. It was immediately obvious, because of the loud noise from the exhaust fumes alone, without the cooling water. As it takes a few minutes for the engine to heat up, there is plenty of time to realise that the seacock is still closed and to open it.
I plan to keep closing it, whilst leaving the boat unattended.
<hr width=100% size=1>I'm average size, Its just that everybody else is short.
I plan to keep closing it, whilst leaving the boat unattended.
<hr width=100% size=1>I'm average size, Its just that everybody else is short.
Ruffles
Well-Known Member
I ran my MD2030 for a minute or so once with the engine seacock closed (I was bleeing the fuel system and having trouble starting it). As soon as I remembered I dashed below and turned it on. The next day I got half way across Poole harbour when the overheat light came on. It turned out that the thermostat had failed. Is this a coincidence? How long can you run a fresh water cooled engine with no raw water circulating?
Rob.
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Rob.
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Boathook
Well-Known Member
Yes, both of them, turn of the electrics & remove keys, turn of gas bottles and disconnect shore power. Forget sometimes, about once every 2 years but if I was really worried yard is very good and has keys to unlock boat.
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JPGruntfuttock
Active Member
My boat nearly sank the one time I didn't.
Came in one Saturday and expecting to sail next day left the engine seacock open as it is difficult to get to. I didn't manage to get to her on the Sunday, but walking down the pontoon several days later saw she was wallowing badly.
When I opened her up she had water above the sole and the floor boards were afloat. The boat has deep bilges and that is a lot of water.
The cause was a form of corrosion of the brass screws holding the face plate on the water pump. The screws had turned black and were so weakened that the cheeseheads broke off under light finger pressure. The water was leaking out under the face plate in a steady trickle.
The problem of these screws deteriorating reccured through three sets of screws and didn't go away until I left that marina. I never found out the cause, I suspect some kind of electrical activity associated with that marina, because it hasn't recurred since.
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Came in one Saturday and expecting to sail next day left the engine seacock open as it is difficult to get to. I didn't manage to get to her on the Sunday, but walking down the pontoon several days later saw she was wallowing badly.
When I opened her up she had water above the sole and the floor boards were afloat. The boat has deep bilges and that is a lot of water.
The cause was a form of corrosion of the brass screws holding the face plate on the water pump. The screws had turned black and were so weakened that the cheeseheads broke off under light finger pressure. The water was leaking out under the face plate in a steady trickle.
The problem of these screws deteriorating reccured through three sets of screws and didn't go away until I left that marina. I never found out the cause, I suspect some kind of electrical activity associated with that marina, because it hasn't recurred since.
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qsiv
Well-Known Member
I really have difficulty now with the concept of metal seacocks. We have plastic ones, and they never, ever get stiff. As such the scope for breakage is markedly reduced.
Other boats I have owned with bronze seacocks have always needed maintenance and occasional replacement.
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Other boats I have owned with bronze seacocks have always needed maintenance and occasional replacement.
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timevans2000
Well-Known Member
there are 3 basic metal valves used on boats. Gate valves ( with the red hand wheel), tapered shaft, prpoer sea cocks and ball valves.
I have had all 3 on my boats but, in my opinion the ones that perform best are the bronze ball valves with stainless ball in a plastic liner. These are very quick to shut off, last for a very long time and dont leak. They will need protection from freezing as the body will crack, like plastic valves in very cold weather.
I dont believe there is any place for gate valves on a boat and traditional tapered sea cocks take too much maintenance. I do like the fact that a nice simple bronze valve is keeping the sea out and not a plastic one. That might just be irrational but I feel safer
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I have had all 3 on my boats but, in my opinion the ones that perform best are the bronze ball valves with stainless ball in a plastic liner. These are very quick to shut off, last for a very long time and dont leak. They will need protection from freezing as the body will crack, like plastic valves in very cold weather.
I dont believe there is any place for gate valves on a boat and traditional tapered sea cocks take too much maintenance. I do like the fact that a nice simple bronze valve is keeping the sea out and not a plastic one. That might just be irrational but I feel safer
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MainlySteam
Well-Known Member
I have the same view.
On current boat, over 7 years old now, have 6 plastic industrial ball valves (alternatively called engineering plastic ball valves) as seacocks, plus same for distribution headers, from new - never have to dismantle them (in fact I don't think one can), never have to grease them (not sure how or why) and they never get stiff, they do not suffer from corrosion, and I suspect they will be only a fraction of the cost of "proper" ones when the day ultimately comes when any have to be replaced.
They have the added advantage on a metal boat of being galvanically neutral and they are specified in new builds we are managing constructed in aluminium and entering class.
John
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On current boat, over 7 years old now, have 6 plastic industrial ball valves (alternatively called engineering plastic ball valves) as seacocks, plus same for distribution headers, from new - never have to dismantle them (in fact I don't think one can), never have to grease them (not sure how or why) and they never get stiff, they do not suffer from corrosion, and I suspect they will be only a fraction of the cost of "proper" ones when the day ultimately comes when any have to be replaced.
They have the added advantage on a metal boat of being galvanically neutral and they are specified in new builds we are managing constructed in aluminium and entering class.
John
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