Cleaning freshwater tank

steffen

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I know its an old question and yes, i did search and did not find, but...
Anny advise as to which solution of bleach (4%) to use to clean and desinfect my freshwater tank after being empty for the winterseason??

Tks for your advise

Happy sailing, Steffen

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HeadMistress

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Not only your tank, but the whole system should be recommissioned....'cuz while most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people—and even some boat manufacturers—believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home for those “critters.”

There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system—tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated.

Before beginning, turn off water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete.

Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed line; however the first two buckets of ice—the bucket generated during recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded.

1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup (4 oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (6% sodium Hypochlorine solution ). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity.

2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines

3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours.

4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat.

5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion.

6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water.


<hr width=100% size=1>Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
 

jerryat

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Hi Lord Nelson!

Why not just use Puriclean. Available anywhere and does the job without all the %ages etc. Much simpler and one canister will last several seasons.

Good sailing!



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steffen

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Thanks for the extensive advise. Fortunately i dont have to deal with luxuries like waterheaters and icemakers, i just have a watertank connected to two footpumps by plastic hoses, thats all.
Nevertheless, the methode is applied this weekend.
Special thanks for the advise on how to get rid of the chlorine tast and smell.

Happy sailing, Steffen

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