Chisel covers

ashtead

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I have just been considering whetherit’s worth buying some blade covers for a few chiesels or investing in some form of tool role. There seem to be a variety of chisel blade covers so confused as to what to buy. The plastic screw fix type look as if they fall off but what about silicone ones . I was also looking for some form of sharpening device but which one do keen woodworkers suggest?
 

pandos

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I have just been considering whetherit’s worth buying some blade covers for a few chiesels or investing in some form of tool role. There seem to be a variety of chisel blade covers so confused as to what to buy. The plastic screw fix type look as if they fall off but what about silicone ones . I was also looking for some form of sharpening device but which one do keen woodworkers suggest?
Buy an oil stone...make a box for it . Put the chisels in a tool roll...made of some sort of material that will hold some oil...

Chisel covers are designed to vanish.....

I have a set in a box, which I swore would be the last ever chisels that I would buy...(got my first set in 1982 when I started to serve my time)

even with a box I can't keep the covers...but remarkably some turn up in the bilge...or my engine tools or my car...and find their way back but never are all chisels covered...
 

ashtead

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Thanks to both -I see screwfix has an offer on if you buy 4 chisels a oilstone is free in deal so that might be way forwards. Old glove fingers is a great idea - I think a few old gardening gloves fingers might be a cheapskate alternative with some cork in the tip maybe.
 

reeac

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I'm a great fan of tool rolls for storing tools on a boat. Instead of rummaging around in a toolbox for the right size of spanner etc you unroll the tool roll and they're all there on display. Spray some oily stuff on an old sock and lay it on the roll before rolling it up to keep rust at bay.
 

Hacker

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+1 for tool roll. However would not recommend an oil stone, like waterstones unless you want to spend time flattening then they get dished. A better option is to get a double sided diamond stone (Trend do a 400/1000 one), you use water as the lubricant. I personally use a honing guide although it is possible to do without if you can replicate the angle each time. If you are working in a workshop all the time then the “scary sharpening system” is worth a look or if you are feeling flush a James Robey system is good.
 

doug748

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Heavy canvas tool rolls can hold moisture unless well blessed with oil. Some seem actively hydroscopic. I have one made from light sailcloth, for spanners, and it seems ok.
Chisels, I just cover the tips with a strip of tape and they go in the toolbox with the rest.
Cheap oilstones are often very soft and will hollow quite quickly. Diamond stones can be cheap nowadays, are easily stored and can be used dry if necessary.

.
 

Wing Mark

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I keep my best chisels at home in a wall mounted rack.
If I need to take them anywhere, I wrap insulting tape around the sharp end.

If find the best way I can get a reasonable edge is to finish off with W&D paper on a flat metal plate., using a honing guide.
The type of honing guide with two wheels rather than one is a big improvement, for me at least. Especially with plane irons.
 

jim.howes

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TREND do a good sharpening tool, it gives both the correct angles for wood chisels and can be used for wood plane blades. Not the cheapest but very well made.
 

Fr J Hackett

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Rather than any stone get a decent piece of float glass and some wet and dry paper 800s, 1500s and 3000s put a strip of each on the glass use something like the spray on stuff for mounting photos that should be all you need. A guide depends on whether you can hold the blade at a fixed angle whilst you repeat the strokes, if you can't then a guide is necessary to achieve a decent edge, veritas make a very good one but it's expensive. Before you start on the edge make sure the back of the chisel is flat by using the coarse and intermediate paper so that it is uniformly matt. A chisel edge has two angles.
If you are keeping them on a boat they need to be protected from moisture and as Poignard says a leather tool wrap impregnated with oil is the way to go, I would still protect the edge and the soft plastic / Silicone push on tabs are excellent and most chisels you buy will come with one. Alternatively a box or a rack but still keep the edge protectors. Good chisels will last and keep an edge cheap ones won't and you will forever be trying to keep them sharp.
Stones are fine if you are prepared to keep them flat but in todays world they are just more work, diamond stones can be very good but you pay a lot for good ones cheap ones are crap.
 

ashtead

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Thanks to all for replies -I have sourced some chisels and a stone from screwfix so while a diamond block might be ideal I will give the stone a try on my old wooden handled versions to see if I can sharpen them up but have new unused ones if required. Next step to find a suitable tool role I think. I have a useful one for spanner’s in canvas on boat but for time being the chiesels will stay tucked up at home . Ideally a wooden chisel box -maybe a port box is a possible home with some oily rag bedding meantime.
 

Kilo

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+1 for Fr J Hackett,
Wet&dry on float glass works a treat.
If you want the lux version look for "scary sharp"
Flatted the backs of the chisel before starting on the bevel - any effort will be wasted if you start the other way round.
 
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