charge controller..

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dento29

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Hey all, i'd like to find out the best way of setting this up..
i have a 65w solar panel and and two batteries one 100A and the op ther 170A.
i will fit a charge controller, what i want to know is is it best to keep the batteries a part one for starting n one for lights bilge etc..and will the controller charge both still?
or wire them in Parallel and run everything together?

Many thanks
 
Unless someone else knows better, I believe you will need two controllers. Keep the batteries on separate circuits, controlled so far as engine charging is concerned either through your 1-2-All switch or through a more intelligent switching system.

So far as your solar panel charging is concerned you will need a dedicated controller. Have a look here at Sunworks where you will find a variety of options. I have the DB1C for my two panels, total 125 watts, which charges my two battery banks. I'm very pleased with mine, trouble free for the past three Med seasons.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hey all, i'd like to find out the best way of setting this up..
i have a 65w solar panel and and two batteries one 100A and the op ther 170A.
i will fit a charge controller, what i want to know is is it best to keep the batteries a part one for starting n one for lights bilge etc..and will the controller charge both still?
or wire them in Parallel and run everything together?

Many thanks

[/ QUOTE ]

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=37762&TabID=1&WorldID=&doy=6m1

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=37767&TabID=1&WorldID=&doy=6m1

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=97384

These are sort of things that can help ... a search through the module section of maplins online can throw up many useful bits.

And often cheaper than some !!
 
thanks for the help, had a look at the maplin site.

would i have to buy the split charger and the Regulator as without the regulator the panel would just keep chargeing??? and if so how would i wire this..

the panel to the split charger then a regulator for each battery?

Would this work or is there an easy route?
 
If I were you, I wouldn't mess about with a collection of Maplin bits. It would make more sense to buy a proper marine solar regulator with twin battery outputs - this will charge your batteries properly whilst also isolating them from each other. For instance, look at the Flexcharge PV7D which is about £55 here. It'll do what you want, and it'll withstand the marine environment.
 
To isolate the batteries when the engine is not running a voltage sensing relay is probably the easiest way without any volt drop.

This should be like the following if you have an alternator up to 100 amps.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/100A-Voltage-Sensi...A1%7C240%3A1318

Install it between the engine starting battery and the domestic battery. When the engine stops the voltage from the alternator drops and the relay drops out to isolate the two batteries.

The solar panel should then be connected to the domestic battery with another voltage sensing relay in the line with a rating suitable for the solar panel.

The engine starting battery does not need connecting to the solar panel as it will always be charged.
 
[ QUOTE ]
thanks for the help, had a look at the maplin site.

would i have to buy the split charger and the Regulator as without the regulator the panel would just keep chargeing??? and if so how would i wire this..

the panel to the split charger then a regulator for each battery?

Would this work or is there an easy route?

[/ QUOTE ]

I've found in practice that the split relay actually acts well enough that I haven't got a regulator. But I'm talking from a 4A bog standard car battery charger. But that probably constitutes better charging than you'll get from the 65W panel considering cloudy days etc.
If I was worried - I would look at charge source to regulator and then to splitter - as splitter will decide which battery receives.

Ask Maplins via online - I'm sure they will answer.

Even though the Kemo gear is cheap - I have it and that splitter works a treat - that's 4 nearly 5 years without hassle.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hello Refueler

The Maplin one looks neat. Do you know what voltage drop you get across it please, have you checked?
BTW looking at the Kemo website there is a new version of it - http://www.kemo-electronic.de/en/module/m102n/index.htm - wonder if that will reach Maplin soon?

Mike

[/ QUOTE ]

Minimal - such that I've never checked. Only problem I had was that a more modern 'clever' charger didn't like it and failed to charge. Returned it to a bog standard old cheap charger and away it went again happy. So fancy auto-float charger does my tractor and other domestic stuff - old 10 quid Halfords charger on boat. Jobs a beaut.

It certainly doesn't have any drop that I noted. It is a relay.

Will look at later model ..
 
Just looked at the new model - Yep like it !! Has slightly higher amp rating as well.

To anyone who thinks a marine item is better - I ask why ? These Kemo items are sealed cases and mine has been sitting on top of the batterys in that marine / battery environment for more than 4 years with no sign of any corrosion / deterioration at all.

I wish they did a high enough amps power one that could take engine alternator.
 
Hello Refueler

Is it definitely relays? Having a higher current rating for a few seconds, and an increased continuous rating when mounted on a heat sink, made me assume it was solid state.

Mike
 
65 Watts of solar with 270 AH total battey is perhaps just on the top limit of operation without a regulator. I think if you are in UK and if the panel is not well aligned you might find the panel can not produce the 65 watts often or for long.
If you want to try without a regulator it is very simple to fit either 2 diode anodes on the pos solar output the cathodes connected to the positives of thee batteries. With negatives conected together you will get a charge with batteries turned off. The charge will be apportioned to the batteries depending on need.
Or you can open up the solar panel to find the diode usually built into the junction box. You add another similar diode and wire to give you 2 output +ve wires one to each pos battery. This latter system reduces voltage drop in diodes to that normally experienced with panel and built in diode.

If you use additional diodes you can site them adjacent to the pos terminals which means you don't need a fuse. But if there is wiring from the pos terminals to the diodes mounted elsewhere you should have individual fuses. (The fire risk comes from the battery not the solar panel and the diodes will block any current from the battery to any potential short circuit.)
You may find if you want a regulator that 2 regs connected after the diodes are cheaper than one fancy 2 output type. I suspect however that it would be OK without regulator. If the batteries tend to use a lot of water you need a reg. olewill
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hello Refueler

Is it definitely relays? Having a higher current rating for a few seconds, and an increased continuous rating when mounted on a heat sink, made me assume it was solid state.

Mike

[/ QUOTE ]

I assumed they are relays - but yes I would think they are solid-state because the box is sealed and solid.
 
From the description of what it does it sounds like blocking diodes, if we are still talking about the Kimo unit. They say it charges the lower battery first, due to the current taking the least line of resistance, indicating diodes. It also gives two ratings, one with cooling.

Brian
 
[ QUOTE ]
From the description of what it does it sounds like blocking diodes, if we are still talking about the Kimo unit. They say it charges the lower battery first, due to the current taking the least line of resistance, indicating diodes. It also gives two ratings, one with cooling.

Brian

[/ QUOTE ]

But having near zero voltage drop across it ... surely that would indicate not diodes ?
 
[ QUOTE ]
If it is Diodes why is there 2 input connections + and an earth

[/ QUOTE ]

Not quite ... mine - the older lower ampage version has 1 +ve connection from charging source and 2 +ve connections out to batterys. The -ve connection is common for charger and batterys.

kemom102chargesplitter.jpg


maplinssplitter.jpg


Looking at the new version, it has similar that +ve splits internally to two outputs and -ve is common. (Terrible diagram on second splitter - looks like input + and - are commoned inside !! )

Kemonewsplitter.jpg


I have no connection to Maplins or Kemo other than being a satisfied user of above splitter. For less than a tenner - I sorted a charging problem simply and only took 5 mins to connect.

I am sure there are much better higher power splitters out there and I know KDDpower does offer a superior system on VSR's that can take alternator ratings.
 
Ever since you posted this before I have been interested

I have in the past made my own very crude diode splitters but have not been satisfied due to the volt loss you get.

On a "normal" diode splitter you only need 3 connections incoming + and the 2 outgoing to the + of the batteries.

It just begs a question if this is a simple diode splitter why is there a connection to the negative of the battery. I know you may not know the answer. It just may be something other than a simple diode splitter. If it is I will use it on my new boat over my own crude diode splitter.

Having at the keno web site there are lots of other interesting modules like there net solar controller that seems to be able to drive 2 batteries from a single panel without the need to have a splitter. This also could be used with a simple mains battery charger of the type I know you use with your timer switch arrangement.

Currently I am installing separate solar panels with there own regulators for each of my 2 domestic and 1 engine start batteries but a single multi drive regulator would be better IMHO.
 
I have feeling that internals of this item need a power supply so the -ve is connected as well. But look at the diagrams of the first model and you see the common connection. I use simple screw terminal blocks but of course better connection system can be employed.
I get feeling that model 2 has cleaned up that side by getting you to connect -ve's of battery to proper terminals as well - probably find inside -ve is just a pass through.

I have no idea how it works, but know it does. I only use the timer to switch charger on / off to prevent overcharging as the splitter will not work with intelligent chargers that auto-float ..... such as this :

halfordscharger.jpg


Now that I've posted that picture - I'll probably get replies about haw bad that item is !! Well poo poo - that halfords charger keeps my tractor nicely charged over winter permanently connected ... ready for duty in spring to cut the grass !

Of course my real favourite charger is this one :

http://www.enkay.com.tr/TklUrunDetay.asp?LID=EN&PID=117&MID=9

GYSCT150Echarger.jpg


This we use to charge up truck batterys, but as you can see it has provision for 6 - 12 - 24V charging and also manual regulation of amps charge rate. It will also reduce amps automatically once battery reaches near full charge so is not critical to disconnect once charged. Price is well below most comparable or even less versatile "marine" chargers.
 
New user, so first hello to all.

Looked at one of these myself.
They appear to be MOSFET devices (solid state), hence the need for -ve connection and no voltage loss. Very good piece of kit for money, I'd say.
Spec here
 
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