chain and a bit of rope in the anchor locker

geronimo

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I think that I have read somewhere that it is not good practice to secure the end of the chain directly to something in the anchor locker. One should always end with a short length of rope between the chain and the boat. The idea was not to make it longer, I think this was for flexibility and stretch if one has to let all length go.

Have I got that right?
 
No, the purpose of the rope connecting the chain to the boat is to enable you to cut the rope and release the chain if it ever became unsafely snagged to the ground.

You will also need a non-rusting sharp knife secured nearby.
 
I think that I have read somewhere that it is not good practice to secure the end of the chain directly to something in the anchor locker. One should always end with a short length of rope between the chain and the boat. The idea was not to make it longer, I think this was for flexibility and stretch if one has to let all length go.

Have I got that right?

Its called "The Bitter End" & is designed to be lashed to a strong point & cut in a dire emergency after affixing a buoy / fender to the end of the chain first
 
The idea is that with all the chain out, the rope connecting it to the boat will come out through the hawse hole so if necessary you can cut it away without having to delve down in the nethers in what would presumably be marginal conditions.
 
My anchor chain is attached to a ring bolt in the chain locker with a length of line. This line is long enough to reach up onto the foredeck where I can cut it, should I need to abandon the anchor and chain in a hurry for any reason.

So far I have never had to do so.
 
It's so you can bring the line onto deck and cut it with a knife if you have to ditch your ground tackle. Also, it's to soften the blow if your chain runs out in an uncontrolled manner - the line stretched somewhat rather than pulls out the bulkhead to which the chain end might be attached.
 
I don't go with the stretchy business being a real factor, sorry. If the line is 3m long and a has 20% elasticity (generous), then it will only extend 600mm, max.


(If you ever have to cut a line under heavy load, watch out for backlash, and the line parting a long way before you cut right through it).
 
I don't go with the stretchy business being a real factor, sorry. If the line is 3m long and a has 20% elasticity (generous), then it will only extend 600mm, max.

Fine - that's two feet and a hell of a shock absorber compared to a shackle direct to a ring-bolt.

This anecdote is what tends to come to my mind when the topic comes up. Of course, they're proposing a rather longer length of rope than most of us (myself included) would fit.

Pete
 
...... with a length of reasonably light rope about as long as the HW depth, otherwise in any significant depth you will just watch as the fender sinks to the bottom along with chain. (guess how I know).

As the yoof of today might say: LOL.

I've no idea how you might know that - could you possibly elucidate us?

(Note to self:chain sinnet 10m of light cordage onto my bitter end ;-)
 
I have heard it suggested that instead of a single rope it would be better to have a thinner rope looped several times between the ring-bolt and the end of the chain. This would certainly be easier to cut.
 
Bitter End Length Is Not Just For Ease Of Cutting

Cutting the bitter end in an emergency from the deck is a secondary function. The primary function is to allow access to the end of the chain for attaching a warp to extend the anchor rode.

If its possible to fit a ring or shackle to the chain that will traverse the hawse pipe do so; otherwise attach the bitter end to the chain link second from the end. This will make attaching the anchor rope to extend the rode that much easier.
 
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