Cayenne in yacht 'intensive care'

[flykeith]

First off a little where is it?



Answer about as far from the sea as you can get in UK!

I brought Cayenne home last year to do some major work. Unfortunately the word major does not do justice to the work required. Whilst removing decades of paint from her counter, I found some soft planking and investigating further discovered the 'counter timber' is completely shot ( I am calling the central timber that runs from the stern post to the transom the 'Counter timber'. From the outside it seems sound, holds the fastenings well and sounds good to tap. But inside once the paint was penetrated I could scoop up the Oak?? with my hands.

So my plan is to remove all the plank end fastenings and the floor bolts, try and slide the old timber out and the replacement back in. Problem is the counter timber is of course, about 30mm wider at the forward end. I have removed an area of deck to gain better access.
Any of you wise guys done this before or have a better plan? Also I am lifting part of the deck, 1inch Teak, will structural integrity be severely compromised if I cut these so as not to have to go too far forward?

It's good to be back on YBW, could be nicer circumstances though.
Keith

 

[Rum_Pirate]

Are you in Coton in the Elms, Derbyshire?

 

[Sundowner 39]

Leicester by any chance.........Looks familiar.......road out to Oadby ...have you sailed her or decide on a project?

 

[DoubleEnder]

Yikes. But if the outer part of the horn timber(?) is sound and holds the fastenings, maybe you could cut away from the inside until you reach hard wood then build it up with laminates? Hard to say if this is possible in the specific case of your boat but I have seen it done.

 

[Sandy Bottom]

Hi Keith,

I would respectfully suggest that before you go any further you should get some more support in, around, and especially underneath that counter. A couple of long acrow props coming in either side from about level with the stern so that you can offset any sag or twist might help. It's difficult to tell from the photo's but the counter looks already close to dropping her line (photos No 1 & 3) (sorry if I'm wrong, as I say difficult from the photos) so personally I would beef up the support from underneath, and place some extra temporary floors just fwd and aft of the workplace if you can find a spot. If you cannot attach directly to the hull from the outside then a couple of 'U' supports made from ply shaped to the hull that you can adjust with acrows would do the trick i.e. a bit like the modern racing yacht cradles with say two pieces of ply shaped the the hull, a 4 or 6'' 'spacer' timber between them, and than a thin ply / old carpet soft landing to butt up against the hull. That counter will 'flop' all over the place once you start to remove those big timbers.
Oh, and whilst your at it, another vertical prop under the bow :encouragement:

(Well you did ask )

Steve

 

[flykeith]

Thanks for the suggestions Steve, I will give her more support, although so far she is holding her line - surprising really when I discovered the scale of rot!

gdallas 'yikes' sums it up!! I did wonder about laminating up from 'good wood' if I can find enough.

Sundowner, that's the one, your prize 100hrs marine related community service

Rummy, I did say 'about as far from the sea' and anyway does the Wash count?

Keith

 

[Transcur]

The horn timber can either come out the top or bottom!!

From the top you would need to cut through frame ends and floors. New floors could be fitted and bolted to the frames. Rather messey and would not look right.

An alternative would be to remove the caulking for about 6ft 3/4 frames from the horn timber. They maydrop down sufficiently for you remove the remains of the rotten horn timber and allow you to insert the new one. Refasten and recaulk. Not so good if there are a lot of old iron rail which will be difficult to remove.

Another solution if you have complete faith in modern adhesives is to make the new horn timber in three pieces and glue and screw them together. There should be room to fit each internal piece and then 'join' them with the piece between the plank hood ends.

The image attached may help a bit.

Pete

 

[Kukri]

Transcur knows his stuff.

Referring back to your question on the deck planks, don't cut them. You need to remove each plank for the full length. As with the planking proper, the shift of butts must be observed. See Watts and Jurd and Lloyd's Yacht Rules.

And I don't need to tell you that the cause of all the trouble is a leaky deck.