CAT 3126 MANUAL OIL DRAIN PUMP

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John100156

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Just about to do the first oil change on my 3126's which has a manual oil drain pump fitted, it can drain oil from engine sump or gearbox, it has a lever which I assume you rotate to point (shortest side) to the drain pipe you want to operate, does anyone know where it should point to? I can use trial and error of course heating the engine but thought others might know. you can see the lever operated valve at the base of the pump in the following image, any advice welcome, have emailed Finning but no response as yet....:-


InkedIMG_3724_LI.jpg
 
John100156 said:
Just about to do the first oil change on my 3126's which has a manual oil drain pump fitted, it can drain oil from engine sump or gearbox, it has a lever which I assume you rotate to point (shortest side) to the drain pipe you want to operate, does anyone know where it should point to? I can use trial and error of course heating the engine but thought others might know. you can see the lever operated valve at the base of the pump in the following image, any advice welcome, have emailed Finning but no response as yet....:-


View attachment 102280
Click to expand...
Lever towards the pipe you want to empty , I’d be changing both if you haven’t
 
on the premise the engine oil is probably black and the gearbox oil should be clear, give it a try and see what comes out.
I would guess that the lever when aligned with the pipe to the engine sump will suck oil from the sump not the gearbox
 
Same on mine as VP says point the lever towards forwards for the motors , to the back for the G box .
I am assuming it’s a straight shafts not v drive g box .

You might have to twist the pump handle to unlock it too .

Twin disc gear box ? Looks familiar use straight 30 W gradually darkens in around 200 hrs so for me every 3 years .
 
pump handle pumps ok - I would expect its a 90 degree elbow on the ball valve, so pointing the short end of the lever towards the engine hose opens its port to pump, but then you would only need to rotate it clockwise 90 degrees so lever pointing up would drain GB.

VP probably right just do both but only have engine oil with me.

Perhaps the drilling on the valve ball is straight through AND branch, like a T, that would work.

Point (short side of lever) toward left hose and pump and left side hose port open and bottom port goes nowhere, so closed, then rotate lever (T) 180 to point towards GB hose and same applies? Better image:

e2.jpge2.jpg
 
John100156 said:
pump handle pumps ok - I would expect its a 90 degree elbow on the ball valve, so pointing the short end of the lever towards the engine hose opens its port to pump, but then you would only need to rotate it clockwise 90 degrees so lever pointing up would drain GB.

VP probably right just do both but only have engine oil with me.

Perhaps the drilling on the valve ball is straight through AND branch, like a T, that would work.

Point (short side of lever) toward left hose and pump and left side hose port open and bottom port goes nowhere, so closed, then rotate lever (T) 180 to point towards GB hose and same applies? Better image:

View attachment 102291View attachment 102291
Click to expand...
No .On mine you point the LONG side towards the thing you want to empty ,
Thats normal valve convention .Handle points to the flow direction.

Anyway the motor oil is combustion black , the g box is just darker as no combustion products in it , so you will soon know what’s coming out .
 
John, I had 3126’s on the Azi. Looked a tad newer than yours, as my lever was black plastic. Ever so easy to use the built on pump. Just point the lever horizontal towards the engine. Attach a length of hose to the outlet, which drains into a container (I used an old 25 litre oil container so I could easily tell how much I had pumped out) and pump. Took about 20 mins per engine, and if you use the hose as I described then no mess. Then refill with fresh oil. I got about 24 litres out of each engine, so there may have been a small amount that didn’t pump out, however the new oil remained clean, so no harm done. The filters need a bit of grunt to undo. Check which way to unwind, before you tighten them even more! I filled the filters with oil before fitting new ones. Keep topping until nearly full. A satisfying couple of hours all in all knowing a good job done.
Note, on my engines the lever was at 12.00, or upright in the neutral position.
 
Many thanks chaps.

I know what Portofino is saying, but its not a conventional two port lever valve, which as we know is across the line to shut-off and in-line to open, what's throwing me is that sort of pointer, on the short side...!

I'll go with Rafiki and assume the long arm opens the port it is pointing to, so:-

Rotate CW 90, to that shown, to open the engine port to pump
Rotate ACW 90, to that shown, to open the GB port to pump

Can't do it tomorrow now as helping a friend Rydlyme his engines, so will do oil and filter change on Sunday....
 
John100156 said:
Many thanks chaps.

I know what Portofino is saying, but its not a conventional two port lever valve, which as we know is across the line to shut-off and in-line to open, what's throwing me is that sort of pointer, on the short side...!

I'll go with Rafiki and assume the long arm opens the port it is pointing to, so:-

Rotate CW 90, to that shown, to open the engine port to pump
Rotate ACW 90, to that shown, to open the GB port to pump

Can't do it tomorrow now as helping a friend Rydlyme his engines, so will do oil and filter change on Sunday....
Click to expand...
John, if the direction is wrong, you will tell by the smell of the oil. Lift the dipstick, and if what comes out smells like the oil on the dipstick, then good to go. Gearbox oil smells more pungent.
 
Volvo paul , Fafiki and myself are saying the same thing .You have had no conflict of advice .

Post# 5 appears the port engine , different pic to post #1 which is the clearly the stb .

Its not clear from post#9 which pic you are referring to .
Your description AW / ACW looks like you are referring to pic #1 .
 
Clearly, I am not explaining myself well - so ignore all I said above.... let me start again:

I found a better pic which is why I posted the one in #5; so, referring to close up Pic in #5, we have a black hose on left and white on right. You can see what looks like a short pointer part on the lever and a longer part of the lever. So, are you all suggesting:

Rotate arm CW 90, to that as shown, to open the black hose to pump?

Rotate ACW 90, to that as shown, to open the white hose to pump?

Rydlyme'ing on nearby friends boat (D6's) went really well today, anodes and impellers all removed and we valved-off (with a sensible valve/lever) the water feed to stern gland/seal and used a water puppy pump which circulated very nicely.

So its my engine oil change in the next day or two..... then I will reveal final results!
 
Portofino said:
Volvo paul , Fafiki and myself are saying the same thing .You have had no conflict of advice .
Click to expand...

Well it turns out you were all WRONG!

Turning the lever away from the hose you wanted to drain was the correct way....!

I ran the engines up, started as advised, but clear clean GB oil was seen in the drain tube. Rotated so small pointer pointed to the engine drain hose and hot dark oil cleared. took quite a few pumps to clear 25L but a very simple and clean process. Changed filters, pumped-in clean oil through a sensibly sized oil filler tube, ran the engines up and topped up to just under the full mark and all was well. Quite a satisfying mornings work. Will do the GB's when next out.

Thanks to you all for useful guidance and advice, much appreciated.
 
Yes, I followed your advice in #10, many thanks - I have written it in the book now for next time...!

Having had Volvo's in my two previous boats, I must say the CAT 3126's do seem to me to be robust lumps, I look forward to exercising them a bit next season C19 permitting, they are still relatively new to me. I used the Exol Optima Marine 123 oil.....!
 
John100156 said:
Yes, I followed your advice in #10, many thanks - I have written it in the book now for next time...!

Having had Volvo's in my two previous boats, I must say the CAT 3126's do seem to me to be robust lumps, I look forward to exercising them a bit next season C19 permitting, they are still relatively new to me. I used the Exol Optima Marine 123 oil.....!
Click to expand...
Good call. My cats purred on this oil. I was very happy with both the engines and the oil. The other thing to check while you are in the engine room is the alternator belt tension. On my cats the alternator drove the tachometers, and the belts would occasionally need a tighten, highlighted by no revs on the tacho. Not hard to do unless access to the starboard one is tight. There are lots of pencil anodes in the cooling system on the engines. I think 10 on each of mine. Again easy to change once you have identified the locations.
 
Many thanks for advice on belts - never experienced that problem before, but forewarned is forearmed...!

Yes, I changed all anodes last visit, as you say, the Cat manual says 11 but I also had 10 per engine, they used one of the tapings in the GB oil cooler to feed the stern glands. All easy to change though! With that amount of zinc it will be interesting to see how they wear....!
 
John100156 said:
Many thanks for advice on belts - never experienced that problem before, but forewarned is forearmed...!

Yes, I changed all anodes last visit, as you say, the Cat manual says 11 but I also had 10 per engine, they used one of the tapings in the GB oil cooler to feed the stern glands. All easy to change though! With that amount of zinc it will be interesting to see how they wear....!
Click to expand...
Mine lasted 6 years to date with not a great deal of waste.
 
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