Building a lithium battery

Lithium is more expensive than basic leisure batteries, but it's no longer more expensive than the premium lead acid like Trojans or AGMs.

It's probably not worth the hassle to change if you've been getting five years out of £100 leisure batteries.
Not if you are buying off the shelf batteries rather than building your own. 100Ah "drop ins" are still £500+. A pair of 95Ah stop start AGMs like mine are £280. Sure there are more expensive AGMs and batteries like Trojans, but for the "normal" weekend leisure user they have never been economically justified anyway.

The point I was making though is that the choice is a function of usage rate and pattern, not based on the properties of a particular type.
 
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B27, you shouldn't connect an alternator directly to a LFP battery or you risk the alternator over heating particularly at lower engine revs and when the BMS shuts down because the battery is full destroying the diodes in the alternator.

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I was intending to be clear that this would be something like a 30Ah drop in battery.
Would the built in BMS limit the current to 30A, a safe level for a 60A alternator?

I guess there are alternators and other alternators, but at low RPM, would the alternator not be rated for such current? If it can't deliver, why won't it simply lose a little voltage, dropping the current?

The issue of the BMS cutting off abruptly can be protected against with a zener or similar, but in any case it's less violent than turning off a windlass or similar or the power steering motor on a car?
There would be an issue if there was no lead/acid battery permanently connected, I understand that is outside the parameters of alternator regulator design.

There could be issues with the BMS not coping with the ripple/noise/spikes etc present on the alternator volts. That could be an issue with an external BMS too.

I'm guessing these mid-size batteries are mostly sold into the market for things like alarms, fire exit lights, UPS, portable signs etc etc where huge numbers of SLA packs used to be used? So charging is expected to be solar or mains?
 
I'm watching with interest as I ran my domestics down to 11v over 3 days at anchor last weekend, so I'm very interested in improving capacity.

I currently have 2, 56AH LA batteries for the port engine and domestics, plus a 60AH LA for the starboard engine. How upset would those batteries get if I put them into one bank, and got a, say 40AH to start the starboard engine?
 
100 a/h drop in lithium now are £300, there’s really very little price difference now at the budget end of things.

LiFePO4 12V 100Ah Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery | ECO-WORTHY
Only in as much as £300 is very little different from £90.
People will tell you that you need twice the capacity in lead/acid, but that's only if you want 500 cycles out of it. Your average low budget weekend cruiser will only do a few deep cycles a year. And the Li option will often only be running from 90% to 10% or similar.
If you then need a bunch of electronics to make it happen, like a B to B charger, it's really not that cheap.
Totally different economics to being on board 300 nights a year.
 
I'm watching with interest as I ran my domestics down to 11v over 3 days at anchor last weekend, so I'm very interested in improving capacity.

I currently have 2, 56AH LA batteries for the port engine and domestics, plus a 60AH LA for the starboard engine. How upset would those batteries get if I put them into one bank, and got a, say 40AH to start the starboard engine?
The first question is, what's the true capacity of those batteries now?

I think moving batteries into a bank when they are not new is a bad idea.
 
Only in as much as £300 is very little different from £90…
I was referring to Tranona’s comment about Lithium drop in batteries being £500, as well you know.

I’ve just removed two budget (£100 each) 110a/h lead acid batteries from my boat. They did 2 years. This on a boat with shore power and with a 20a Sterling charger working as it should. It’s a total crap-shoot with budget lead acids. They may do 7 years, they may do 2 like mine.
 
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I was referring to Tranona’s comment about Lithium drop in batteries being £500, as well you know.

I’ve just removed two budget (£100 each) 110a/h lead acid batteries from my boat. They did 2 years. This on a boat with shore power and with a 20a Sterling charger working as it should. It’s a total crap-shoot with budget lead acids. They may do 7 years, they may do 2 like mine.
Is it totally random, or is it a matter of how the batteries are treated, and what your criteria might be for them 'failing'?
Lots of people have measured the declining performance of L/A batteries, there is an element of random variation but the big picture is that time, number of cycles, depth of cycles and abuse kill them in fairly predictable ways.

If you've been cycling your batteries to 50% daily for two years, then you might expect them to be 'end of life'.

But 'end of life' for a Lead/Acid battery is generally taken to be when it's lost a lot of capacity or when it won't start a car. It's not when it n longer meets the spec for a new battery. How have yours 'failed'?

I read that prior to the rise of stop/start and smart alternators in cars, most car batteries died primarily of overcharging.
 
The obvious time to change is when your current battery bank needs to be replaced.

Just out of interest:

What is the acceptance by the major boat builders to lithium, is it mainstream at boat shows or considered an exotic?

Jonathan
I don't know about new builds and boat shows, but amongst full time liveaboards, in at least my experience, lithium is probably the majority now, or very close to it.
 
… How have yours 'failed'?
Their capacity lowered to the point that they were not worth keeping. I drop tested them using car headlight bulb. After 3 hours or so they were below 11 volts. They really didn’t work hard, usual marina sort of boat. It’s a complete mystery to me. They were replaced with a 2nd hand pair of proper deep cycle FLA’s, which are much better. When those die I shall go the lithium route, as I have recently done in my camper van.
 
Not if you are buying off the shelf batteries rather than building your own. 100Ah "drop ins" are still £500+. A pair of 95Ah stop start AGMs like mine are £280. Sure there are more expensive AGMs and batteries like Trojans, but for the "normal" weekend leisure user they have never been economically justified anyway.

The point I was making though is that the choice is a function of usage rate and pattern, not based on the properties of a particular type.
Are they still that expensive?
Two and a half years ago I bought a Sterling 60Ah drop in for £280. And I'm sure prices have only fallen since then.

Anyway the main reason for starting this thread was to show how I went about building a battery from cells, and hopefully to show that it's really not rocket science and needs very little specialist equipment. I bought a hydraulic crimper for £30, and a variable voltage power supply for about £40. Both of which have been useful for other things too. You'll also need a multi-meter but I'd assume any boat owner would already have that.
 
If you then need a bunch of electronics to make it happen, like a B to B charger, it's really not that cheap.
As has been repeated ad naseum, a lithium upgrade makes sense if you're using your boat as a liveaboard, and may be unnecessary complication if you use it for holidays only. I get that.

Just on the point of the extra equipment, that really depends. An all-singing-all-dancing setup will indeed have things like upgraded alternator, high output shore power charger, and possibly upgrades to the MPPTs, wiring, fuses, isolator, etc.

It depends on what you want the system to do. For the first two years I ran without any engine charging whatsoever. Eventually I bought a small DC-DC charger for my windlass battery, and ended up stealing it for the more worthwhile task of charging the main lithium bank. It just seems silly not to have the option I guess.

I also don't have a dedicated shore power charger, just a small portable one with crocodile clips. But I haven't spent a night in a marina since the 2nd of January anyway 😂
 
The first question is, what's the true capacity of those batteries now?

I think moving batteries into a bank when they are not new is a bad idea.
That's a very good question. to which I don't know the answer. A very rough guestimate of our usage over three days would be about 230AH, and I'd guess we'd get about 80 AH from 200w of panels over two sunny days and one dull one. Yes, that would certainly be enough to bring our 120AH of batteries down below safe usage, even if they're in tiptop condition and they're a few years old.

I fear you're right about linking them, so I'll go on with what I've got until they die, and reconsider then. Perhaps we'll all be buying Na-ion batteries for less then lead-acid by then.
 
As has been repeated ad naseum, a lithium upgrade makes sense if you're using your boat as a liveaboard, and may be unnecessary complication if you use it for holidays only. I get that.

Just on the point of the extra equipment, that really depends. An all-singing-all-dancing setup will indeed have things like upgraded alternator, high output shore power charger, and possibly upgrades to the MPPTs, wiring, fuses, isolator, etc.

It depends on what you want the system to do. For the first two years I ran without any engine charging whatsoever. Eventually I bought a small DC-DC charger for my windlass battery, and ended up stealing it for the more worthwhile task of charging the main lithium bank. It just seems silly not to have the option I guess.

I also don't have a dedicated shore power charger, just a small portable one with crocodile clips. But I haven't spent a night in a marina since the 2nd of January anyway 😂
I'm just exploring the potential benefits for a non-liveaboard boat.
A hybrid LIFEPO4/Lead house bank could be an economical way forwards for me.

My limited goals are:
A bit more capacity
Avoiding abusing the lead/acid by leaving it at low state of charge
Extract more Ah from the alternator in short engine runs.


Given our pattern of use, ISTM that being able to take current efficiently from the alternator at say a consistent 25A, would be part of a better solution than 'just buy more solar panels'.

It seems the drop-in batteries are not specified to be 'dropped into' a mixed bank alongside a L/A charged by an alternator. If the BMS is only documented to be charged by a mains charger or a solar controller, we have to be cautious.
At this moment, the main thing is to know what I want to plan for over the next year or so, getting the backbone of the wiring right etc. Having space for the hardware...
 
I'm just exploring the potential benefits for a non-liveaboard boat.
A hybrid LIFEPO4/Lead house bank could be an economical way forwards for me.

My limited goals are:
A bit more capacity
Avoiding abusing the lead/acid by leaving it at low state of charge
Extract more Ah from the alternator in short engine runs.


Given our pattern of use, ISTM that being able to take current efficiently from the alternator at say a consistent 25A, would be part of a better solution than 'just buy more solar panels'.

It seems the drop-in batteries are not specified to be 'dropped into' a mixed bank alongside a L/A charged by an alternator. If the BMS is only documented to be charged by a mains charger or a solar controller, we have to be cautious.
At this moment, the main thing is to know what I want to plan for over the next year or so, getting the backbone of the wiring right etc. Having space for the hardware...
If you're not already on there, the 12v Facebook group has a lot of experience on hybrid systems. Just make sure you join the right group- there's another similarly named one where they seem to think that lithium batteries are the work of the devil and will turn your boat in to the Hindenburg.
 
I'm just exploring the potential benefits for a non-liveaboard boat.
A hybrid LIFEPO4/Lead house bank could be an economical way forwards for me.

My limited goals are:
A bit more capacity
Avoiding abusing the lead/acid by leaving it at low state of charge
Extract more Ah from the alternator in short engine runs.


Given our pattern of use, ISTM that being able to take current efficiently from the alternator at say a consistent 25A, would be part of a better solution than 'just buy more solar panels'.

It seems the drop-in batteries are not specified to be 'dropped into' a mixed bank alongside a L/A charged by an alternator. If the BMS is only documented to be charged by a mains charger or a solar controller, we have to be cautious.
At this moment, the main thing is to know what I want to plan for over the next year or so, getting the backbone of the wiring right etc. Having space for the hardware...
The BMS doesn't know where the charge current is coming from, neither does it care. It's the alternator that cares, Lithium will take as much charge as your alternator can output, constantly. It will run your 60a alternator absolutely flat out, but the alternator isn't designed to be run at max output continuously, it will burn out.

Also, no matter how much battery capacity you add, you still have to put the charge back in. Adding solar to most small boats with occasional usage is often enough.
 
100 a/h drop in lithium now are £300, there’s really very little price difference now at the budget end of things.

LiFePO4 12V 100Ah Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery | ECO-WORTHY
Yes, I am aware of those (and one or two others) but the well known names are+/- £500. I am wary of products that give so little information, make outrageous claims and need to offer extra bonus "discounts" alongside the already headline "discount" of 40%. Reading some of the reviews also raises questions. None of the reviews seem to be in boaty applications.

The reality is that the typical leisure sailor cannot exploit the properties of the product and a sensible 2conventional" battery setup with AGMs should give a life of 10 years or more. My last boat had 5 AGMs and was used in the leisurely way most do and were as good at 6 years when I sold the boat as when new.

As I indicated earlier EV battery prices will fall 40% or so in the next 3-5 years and inevitably those aimed at our end of the market will follow a similar price. However at the moment there is no compelling argument to change unless you are going to operate the boat in such a way as to exploit the properties. PS don't forget the potential costs of other modifications to the system that may be required.
 
The BMS doesn't know where the charge current is coming from, neither does it care. It's the alternator that cares, Lithium will take as much charge as your alternator can output, constantly. It will run your 60a alternator absolutely flat out, but the alternator isn't designed to be run at max output continuously, it will burn out.
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As far as I can tell, the BMS in these 'drop in batteries' only controls the current in as much it provides some short circuit protection, cutting off the battery if the discharge current is e.g. >50A for a 20Ah battery.

It's not like the battery controller circuit in say a mobile phone which regulates the charging current, or the circuitry in a Li-ion power tool battery.

So yes, a typical LifePO4 drop in battery needs to be charged by a current limiting charger, at least when it's at low SOC.
 
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As I indicated earlier EV battery prices will fall 40% or so in the next 3-5 years and inevitably those aimed at our end of the market will follow a similar price. However at the moment there is no compelling argument to change unless you are going to operate the boat in such a way as to exploit the properties. PS don't forget the potential costs of other modifications to the system that may be required.
You may be right about prices falling further soon.
At some point in the future I think we will be moving over, so it seems a good idea to bear that in mind when working on a boat's electrics. Leave space for the wiring and bus bars, fuses and so forth. Maybe leave space on the control panel for some sort of display/meters etc.
 
Yes, I am aware of those (and one or two others) but the well known names are+/- £500.
If you’re aware of “those and one or two others” why would you say a drop in lithium battery is £500? It’s misleading and unhelpful don’t you think? Of course you can spend more on a ‘premium’ brand, same with AGM eg Lifeline, Rolls and so on.
 
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