Bravo 2 or 3?

[adey]

I've seen two almost identical boats for sale, one with a Bravo 2 leg and one with a Bravo 3. I presume that the Bravo 3 with its Duoprop will give better performance. Is that all there is to it?

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[AJW]

What engine is it mated to? If its a Yanmar 300 beware!

B2 is heavy duty single prop, B3 is twin contrarotating prop. I would be surprised to see two similar boats with each combo - what boats are they?

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Solitaire]

Unless the Bravo 3 option is the X Drive don't even consider it! Also check the anodes etc. I met up with a guy today who, after only 4 months in the water, the anodes have completly gone and the legs are rotting.The drives are only 18 months old. I've heard of more problems with Bravo 3 drives than on any other this year. and one dealer I do deliveries for won't fit the Bravo 3 legs anymore..

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://arweb.co.uk/argallery/solitaire>Some pictures</A>

 

[AJW]

If its an X drive on a Yanmar 300, It still wont survive. I know of one boat with a single 300 yanmar that has gone through three B3X and two B1 and is now trying a B2!

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Solitaire]

On that point I agree. One of the schools I work for has been thru 2 this year and the boat has the 315 Yanmar.

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://arweb.co.uk/argallery/solitaire>Some pictures</A>

 

[adey]

Both boats are Sea Ray 240 Sundancers with 5.0ltr Mercruiser engines. The one with the Bravo 2 is the nicer boat so I guess I'll start haggling


<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[terryw]

I would suggest you try both before you make up your mind. I had a 28' boat with twin Yanmar 240Hp fitted with B3's. It was totally unmanageable, and nearly threw SWMBO over the front rail by just engaging reverse. Had them changed to B1's and boat was a dream to drive (and still managed 55knots on dead calm)

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Sgroves]

I'm got Mercruiser D219 engines on Bravo 2 legs and have no problem with corrosion, anodes would probably be fine for a couple of years, (so why do I religiously change them every year?)
Steve

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[duncan]

always a good question to get opinion stirred up!

FIrstly and I suspect behind one of the responses - ribs and BIIIs don't seem to mix very well. The drives run v hot and ribs, commercial and dive especially, run 'em hard, hot and often quite high in the water too.
Mercruiser developed a very special alloy for the III's to maintain power to weight (and it's still bloody heavy drive) then stuck 2 dirty great stainless props on them creating an anode eating monster in many conditions. The salt water anodes are aluminum / fresh are magnesium, all are expensive! From 2001 Mercury admitted there was a bit of a problem (well they made some changes) and 2004 models have 2 Mercathodes per drive, a second cavitation plate anode and one on the bearing carrier in front of the props - that's 6 passive and 2 active anodes per drive in total and about 125 quid a pop.
The drive has also had changes with the introduction of sealed UJs (around 2002), modified gimbal bearing and housing on the X but is now considered 'sorted' by most! Most drive mechanical failures were around the versions as more an more powerfull engines were bolted to the drives and heavier and heavier boats - the drive started as standard, then Diesel then X (and there's an XR I think). I think Diesel has been dropped in favour of the stronger X for all diesel aplications.
As has been mentioned in another post the drive has very little prop slip and, where the set up is for speed and is carrying more than 22" pitch props on a light boat you get one hell of an acceleration between 0-4knots (or -4).
They are efficient pick up and at cruise for the same reason.
They are usually less sensitive to trim than an Alpha or BII installation - as Volvo duoprops.
They go in and out of gear smoothly.....
BII is a heavy weight bombproof cruiser drive, more drag, lots of trim steer on single installations and not as fuel efficient.
I would put a BII on a rib, really heavy boat or twin installation - BIII (X) on a single 25-28 (2-4ton) boat.
Finally - take them out on test!

<hr width=100% size=1>madesco madidum ..../forums/images/icons/smile.gif

 

[Solitaire]

I have just come back from the boatyard - one of the club members with a Sunseeker and twin Bravo 3's is in tears. After only 4 months in the water, the boat was pulled out only to discover that anodes compleatly gone and so have both legs. Barrus were down yesterday as the legs are only 18 months old. All this dispite having mercathodes etc. A very unhappy chappy. Bill in the region of £12k

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://arweb.co.uk/argallery/solitaire>Some pictures</A>

 

[AJW]

The boat I mention is a RIB but not a commercial or dive boat, just a well cruised one! Having been onboard during two of the drive failures, one of which was between Isle of Lewis and Kyle its a bit of an emotive subject!

I absolutely agree, were putting a 300 Yanmar on a RIB I would only use a B2. I know of another cruising cabin RIB re-engineed with a Yanmar 300 and B2 which has had no problems at all in extensive cruising.

AJ

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[duncan]

make sure Barrus sort it - Mercruiser are very anxious to be seen as supporting thier product right now. Will pm you some links.
However I expect my anodes (I only have 4 on a 2001) to have gone in 6 months and have known cases where the wrong anodes were fitted and went really quickly. In my case a 'helpfull marine engineer' fitted aftermarket zincs (keypart) and my drive went in a couple of weeks - the zincs were still immaculate!

<hr width=100% size=1>madesco madidum ..../forums/images/icons/smile.gif

 

[nicho]

When, a number of years ago, we ordered our S37 from Sealine, I asked about the difference in performance between the B2 (standard with the D4.2 engines) and the B3's. I was told that whilst the B3 would give an extra couple of knots flat out, the B2 were much quicker to get the boat onto the plane - we went for the B2's. I had the boat 3 years, and never had one single problem with them, certainly not suffering the anode/corrosion problems encountered by some here. The Mercruiser engines were a model of good behaviour too, offering very smooth, economical and totally smoke free performance. Mercruiser are often much maligned, but I had nothing but good experience with them.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Duncan_Hamble]

Adey,

Most of the replies seem to be a bit off topic and talking about big diesels causing problems with the Bravo III drives. 300+hp yanmars do seem to cause problems with Bravo drives.

However, as far as I am aware, the V8 Petrols do not cause the problems described.

I would be inclined to go for the one with the BIII and keep a close eye on your anodes if the condition of the boat is as good as the other one.

Are you sure that the other boat has a B2 and not B1?

Duncan

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[mercman]

The main issue i come across with Bravo drives (other than corrosion probs) is on ribs. Because they are being driven like go karts etc the gimbal ring and steering lever normal go/fail. It is recommended that an external steering unit be fitted for support and better control i.e a Latham Marine unit. See Pascoe sport ribs for example. 99 percent of Bravo issues are with the B3 and its the out put shaft bearing carriers that are the main prob. Does not help with the 2 shiny stainless props close by. Bravo 2 are bullet proof 1`s are not to bad either.
The sunseeker in question is at Eastlands i believe which i think has a problem with corrosion. I was with Barrus at the time and Volvo dealer was on a couple of Fairlines doubling up anodes and drilling and tappin the drives adding extra protection