Bought a Never splashed Colvic Countess 33 on eBay, Looking for infos

[anoccasionalyachtsman]

Greg, post 442, I'm serious, were you? January 1st 2019.

 

[PaulRainbow]

So now you are talking peeling the hull? This includes building a gelcoat peeler from an old planer?
Now you have a boat that was full of water on the inside for a long time, So to my mind you would be looking at osmosis on the inside of the hull, I have seen it before myself several times. I have also been involved with several heavy duty osmosis jobs. The worst was a Swan 43 that had blisters like ping pong balls completely covering its bottom. The owner got a bloke in Gelstrip UK iirc, he had a proper peeler & muscles like tarzan, He peeled that 43 in just 3 days or less & did a fabulous job at a good price, Wetblasting & pressure washing did the rest. The boat dried out in the sun & wind in two months. Glassing the hull back to thickness & fairing took weeks.
Having seen what is involved in peeling a hull It is something that I would never contemplate doing. It is the most backbreaking, poxy, itchy, filthy job ever invented. As for building a peeler? Your time scale makes this unviable even if you have a machine shop. Are you going to use Silverline tools as base components? I call bullshit. Im afraid that this thread has run its course for me.
Good luck & happy grinding.

Something like the Swan would be worth doing, because it's a boat, a boat worth that's worth 100-150k. When all you have is a hull, worth about 50p, and you peel it, all you have left is half a hull, probably worth -50p. When you start grinding away on the inside, you soon don't have much left. He did say he'd ordered a skip

 

[Spyro]

I was giving Gregg the benefit of the doubt but it's all sounding a bit silly now. To have bought a hull that's never been in the water and then find out it has osmosis has to be the top of the scale in bad luck. It's time to cut and run. I also think he has given up gainful employment to complete this project so as well as the money that will need to be spent he has also forfeited quite a bit of income. I have nothing against anyone having a passion for something but there has to be a point where you draw the line.

 

[pandos]

.....I’m guessing ballpark figure of 4 to 6 weeks to peel, wash, dry, and fare. ... .

if the object is to dry the hull, why not simply enclose it and run dehumidifier with some air circulation within, and then seal the outside allowing moisture an escape path to the interior....

 

[GregOddity]

if the object is to dry the hull, why not simply enclose it and run dehumidifier with some air circulation within, and then seal the outside allowing moisture an escape path to the interior....

We will probably do just that to allow maximum drying, but there are some blisters of osmosis that need addressing, having said that since were rebuilding the boat from scratch were going to do a full osmosis treatment while we have the chance and the boat out of the water. Sadly, to dry the water is not so much the problem but more uncured particles of the resin that reacted with it and that needs to use a bit more persuasion to extract. It’s a simple thing. more gruesome in work but not exactly rocket science. Hot Vac is the most efficient way of doing. Were actually looking forward to doing it. My wife even wants to be the one fairing. All great fun and a joy of boat ownership. There’s a couple at the marina doing just that.

 

[GregOddity]

I was giving Gregg the benefit of the doubt but it's all sounding a bit silly now. To have bought a hull that's never been in the water and then find out it has osmosis has to be the top of the scale in bad luck. It's time to cut and run. I also think he has given up gainful employment to complete this project so as well as the money that will need to be spent he has also forfeited quite a bit of income. I have nothing against anyone having a passion for something but there has to be a point where you draw the line.

If that line would be osmosis 75% or of boats would be heading for the skip.

 

[GregOddity]

Something like the Swan would be worth doing, because it's a boat, a boat worth that's worth 100-150k. When all you have is a hull, worth about 50p, and you peel it, all you have left is half a hull, probably worth -50p. When you start grinding away on the inside, you soon don't have much left. He did say he'd ordered a skip

hehe according to your own calculations, once I finish ADDING some resin to the outside and the inside, I will end up with a £1.50 hull, Profit makes all the difference

 

[GregOddity]

Greg, post 442, I'm serious, were you? January 1st 2019.

Yeah I was serious. But I’m afraid I do not make bets of any kind involving money. I will buy you a beer tho if I lose, is that fair?

 

[GregOddity]

So now you are talking peeling the hull? This includes building a gelcoat peeler from an old planer?
Now you have a boat that was full of water on the inside for a long time, So to my mind you would be looking at osmosis on the inside of the hull, I have seen it before myself several times. I have also been involved with several heavy duty osmosis jobs. The worst was a Swan 43 that had blisters like ping pong balls completely covering its bottom. The owner got a bloke in Gelstrip UK iirc, he had a proper peeler & muscles like tarzan, He peeled that 43 in just 3 days or less & did a fabulous job at a good price, Wetblasting & pressure washing did the rest. The boat dried out in the sun & wind in two months. Glassing the hull back to thickness & fairing took weeks.
Having seen what is involved in peeling a hull It is something that I would never contemplate doing. It is the most backbreaking, poxy, itchy, filthy job ever invented. As for building a peeler? Your time scale makes this unviable even if you have a machine shop. Are you going to use Silverline tools as base components? I call bullshit. Im afraid that this thread has run its course for me.
Good luck & happy grinding.

We did know about the problems the hull had when we bought it. It is not covered in blisters but it does have some. Just fiberglass and fairing. I do agree that there are more interesting jobs on a boat to be doing but hey, comes with the territory.
Not sure if I use a cheap tool as base or if I will have one turned.

Thank you for coming along as far as you have and for the Good luck and Happy Grinding.

Fair winds and following seas. All the best in your travels.
From the Crew of Oddity

 

[GregOddity]

And in the best of British traditions, nothing better on a Sunday afternoon, then spending some time in the garden, close to the grill with a tool in your hands and spreading old ply all over the grass and having the neighbours complain about the noise while they flip the hamburgers and sausages on their grill.
Ready for .. Grinding Joy.

 

[lpdsn]

hehe ..., I will end up with a £1.50 hull, Profit makes all the difference

Only if you can keep your costs below 99p.

 

[GregOddity]

Only if you can keep your costs below 99p.

+1

 

[PhilOddity]

Speaking of keeping costs low, Can anyone help me with any good sources for hinges and fittings. i've been put in charge of sourcing replacement hinges for the chain and anchor Locker and building a database of good quality / resonably priced fixtures and fittings. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

I buy most of what I need over the Internet through Banggood or Newfrog (depending on the product). Price - including signed-for posting - is a fraction of what I would have to pay if I sourced from Europe and the quality is just as good. The one time that I had cause for complaint (damaged product) I was only asked for a photograph before the matter was settled to my satisfaction (when they immediately gave me full credit).

 

[obmij]

ASAP supplies and Seascrew are the ones that spring to mind. Do you have an account with ASAP? If not, seriously consider getting one as you will probably use them a lot.

Also - consider letting them know you're doing a full refit - you may be able to negotiate a half decent discount / postage deal.

Lloyd & Jones is also good for fixings and fastenings

 

[PhilOddity]

I buy most of what I need over the Internet through Banggood or Newfrog (depending on the product). Price - including signed-for posting - is a fraction of what I would have to pay if I sourced from Europe and the quality is just as good. The one time that I had cause for complaint (damaged product) I was only asked for a photograph before the matter was settled to my satisfaction (when they immediately gave me full credit).

Those are two I havent heard of before so will certainly be giving them a look. I'm surprised at how adding the word Marine to something triples its price.

 

[PhilOddity]

ASAP supplies and Seascrew are the ones that spring to mind. Do you have an account with ASAP? If not, seriously consider getting one as you will probably use them a lot.

Also - consider letting them know you're doing a full refit - you may be able to negotiate a half decent discount / postage deal.

Lloyd & Jones is also good for fixings and fastenings

ASAP is just down the road in Fareham. and Seascrew in Eastbourne. I am feeling a road trip to have a chat and set up some accounts coming on. Still getting my head around all this but having fun with it as well.

 

[lpdsn]

I'm surprised at how adding the word Marine to something triples its price.

That's true, but when it comes to stainless steel on a boat you do need to get the spec right. So you need 316 grade s/s and 316L if it is going to be welded. The German and continental A4 grade is pretty much the same stuff as 316.

Non-marine s/s will normally get no more than a bit of surface rust. Galvanised mild steel will be leaving streaks across your deck before very long. Believe me it doesn't take very long at all - I once made the mistake of using a galvanised jubillee clip temporarily on a hose that routed cables up the mast - by the time I got around to getting a s/s one to replace it it was just a heap of rust.

 

[NormanS]

That's true, but when it comes to stainless steel on a boat you do need to get the spec right. So you need 316 grade s/s and 316L if it is going to be welded. The German and continental A4 grade is pretty much the same stuff as 316.

Non-marine s/s will normally get no more than a bit of surface rust. Galvanised mild steel will be leaving streaks across your deck before very long. Believe me it doesn't take very long at all - I once made the mistake of using a galvanised jubillee clip temporarily on a hose that routed cables up the mast - by the time I got around to getting a s/s one to replace it it was just a heap of rust.

I don't think you'll ever get a 'galvanized' jubilee clip. They're normally just electroplated. There is a world of a difference.

 

[Wansworth]

Check out the two chandlers in emsworth and in the marina where you are,might get a good deal and support local trade at the same time maybe the chandlers won’t disappear