Kelpie
Well-known member
@Superheat6K
Where did you get your duct tee pieces from?
Where did you get your duct tee pieces from?
Bought a Chinese diesel heater, now tested...
- Thread starter PetiteFleur
- Start date
CLB
Well-known member
As you asked for referrals, I went back and looked for them.
I may have been wrong that the quote came direct from Owen. Looking back, it appears that it came via his dad:
from here:
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?510405-Banggood-Diesel-Heater
In the process of looking for the thread, I did come across a couple of quotes from another Forumite with reports of fires, which may remove the 'dealer of alternative heaters' point:
from here:
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?492470-Chinese-(5kw-)air-heater/page8
from here:Oh, wait, i do know one person that did some proper testing............. the heater caught fire
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?492470-Chinese-(5kw-)air-heater/page10
Anyway, I have a Chinaspacher, as well as an Eber, and I am happy with both. So far I haven't experienced any fires!
superheat6k
Well-known member
Thanks for clarifying your comment. Despite some searching I too haven't found a specific comment from Owen. However, I have also asked the specific question on the Facebook Group today of any specific circumstances of these heaters catching fire. If anyone does report specifics of an actual fire, and not hearsay comments, I will make it my duty to come back here and say so.
superheat6k
Well-known member
The 4 way Tee ...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Way-Du...var=690892817241&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
The elbow ...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-80mm-9...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
The semi rigid ducting ...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-5m-Alu...var=461873780568&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
The insulated flexible ducting ...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminiu...var=423538194894&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
The adjustable / closable outlets (NB the spigots on these were a bit smaller at 48mm, so I used some offcuts of 2" braided hose to make it easier to clip the 75mm hose to, which under pressure of the jubilee clip easily collapsed down to the 65mm OD of the hose and gripped onto the inner spigot) ...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RV-Boat-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
The skin fitting - NB I wanted one without 3 extra bolt holes so paid the extra for this ...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24MM-S-S...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Exhaust insulation wrap tape (this was enough to wrap the entire exhaust with an overlapping double layer, plus a single wrap around the exhaust silencer). ...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-5M-x-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
The traffolyte label "Heater Outlet No Fender" ...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Engraved...var=572386841500&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
The sealed exhaust silencer - Webasto
- from my 'never throw away drawer of boaty bits', along with the pucker Eberspacher length of exhaust pipe.
Certainly the quality of the peripherals is nowhere near the quality of the Eber Webasto but then neither is the price, and the jubilee clips provided are awful. The 10 lt tank is good, as is the tick tick pump and mount rubber, but I chose to draw through the filler cap rather than drilling into the tank below the fuel level.
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Kelpie
Well-known member
@Superheat
Thanks very much for that list- really comprehensive! I used the same semi-rigid metal ducting, and a slightly cheaper exhaust skin fitting which uses allen head bolts.
I'm also thinking of fitting the fuel pipe into the lid of the tank... but I'm quite tempted to continue using my jerry can, and just buy a second cap for it.
Thanks very much for that list- really comprehensive! I used the same semi-rigid metal ducting, and a slightly cheaper exhaust skin fitting which uses allen head bolts.
I'm also thinking of fitting the fuel pipe into the lid of the tank... but I'm quite tempted to continue using my jerry can, and just buy a second cap for it.
superheat6k
Well-known member
I removed the inner clear plastic flap thingy from the lid and drilled it out to suit a metal electrical gland into which I inserted a piece of the supplied rubber tube, then on the inner side a piece of the supplied fuel pipe cut to just reach the bottom of the tank, and outside the filter then a short piece of the tube then the pipe to the tick tick pump. I did drill a tiny vent hole outside the diameter of the new gland fitting. My tank is mounted snug against a flat bulkhead in a large floor locker, using elastic straps to hold it in place, so simple to remove to refill, or to check the fuel level.
CLB
Well-known member
Just seen your posts on the Facebook group. You have been a bit critical of me. On this thread you said there have been no reports of fires. I simply pointed out that there have been, and gave you link to two posters who claim to have heard about fires. Whether these are true or not is not for me to say, but they are clearly 'reports' so have to be acknowledge as such.
I happen to have one of these Chinese heaters and am very happy with it, but I am mindful that they will not have gone through any kind of rigorous testing, or been built to meet high EU or other standards and therefore it is possible that if they fail, they may not fail safe. I don't really understand why you are so defensive of the position you take. If you are happy, carry on, but don't dismiss reports just because you don't want to hear them. By all means take it up with the posters who made the claims, if you are that concerned about their accuracy, but don't get stroppy about me correcting your inaccurate claim that there have been no reports of fires.
superheat6k
Well-known member
Er - certainly NOT critical of you.
But you did state in thread response #38 what I said was not entirely true. I do think I am entitled to look into this further when my own integrity is called into question, especially as the statement you made was itself based upon a secondhand hearsay comment.
So if you thought my face book post was aimed at you I will categorically state that it was not. It was made to allow me to answer your comment that others had stated these things had caught fire, thus questioning whether my earlier post here had been truthful. Indeed I noted you in fact corrected your opening statement to me in your thread response #42, and for that I thank you. If you felt I was having a pop at you on the Facebook post then you have mis read the situation.
I have said if I find my statement that NIL heaters thus far had caught fire, and providing such claims are reasonably substantiated, not just hearsay, which all I have read so far on here or Facebook, I will return here to correct my earlier statement. So far I am unable to do this as no such substantiation has been brought to my notice.
I did notice one of the claims mentioned pictures of an alleged event, but these never materialised.
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superheat6k
Well-known member
I have had the rumour of a failure details confirmed, but not substantiated. I said I would come back here if I became aware of an issue. This is what has been described to me on FB group.
Apparently a couple of years ago, an independent installer, reported verbally to another dealer that he had a Chinese unit set alight when undertaking a bench test where the inlet was obstructed. The unit apparently did not stop on overheat failure, as should have happened. However, there has been no photos, nor other written account, and I have heard this secondhand.
I will be undertaking this test on the unit just installed on my boat in its installed position this weekend. I will have a bucket of water and fire extinguisher nearby. I will return to this thread to report how the test proceeds.
Apparently a couple of years ago, an independent installer, reported verbally to another dealer that he had a Chinese unit set alight when undertaking a bench test where the inlet was obstructed. The unit apparently did not stop on overheat failure, as should have happened. However, there has been no photos, nor other written account, and I have heard this secondhand.
I will be undertaking this test on the unit just installed on my boat in its installed position this weekend. I will have a bucket of water and fire extinguisher nearby. I will return to this thread to report how the test proceeds.
moomba
N/A
Would it not be prudent not to do this on your boat EEk!!!
MarcJ
Member
Beware overheat tests - I bxggered up the Ecu on my eber when the hot air outlet was dislodged, which blocked it. It did turn off, but the Ecu was toast and I bought another for over £200. It's a known cause of damaging the Ecu on Ebers - not sure if it's the same for inlet blockages...and of course no idea on our chinese imports.
superheat6k
Well-known member
I would rather find out it will stop in it's normal place and mode of operation under an observed test than find out the hardest way that the protection doesn't work.
However, I will do a series of short tests whilst checking the internal reported temperature and checking the casing temperature with an IR thermometer.
It does seem likely this loss of airflow especially at full chat is likely the worse thing that can happen. In addition to a fouled inlet I expect the main blower impeller falling off could also cause this condition. If the motor itself or burner supply impeller failed the thing would simply flame out.
thomasx
New member
The ECU from the chinese version is not a direct swap fit on the Eberspächer/webasto unfortunately.
However, if the connectors are adapted and the chinese control panel is used with a chinese ECU, will it then work with a Ebesrpächer/webasto unit? Does anyone know?
Basically the question is if the temp sensors, glow plug, fan motor, fan magnet and fuel pump are the same. I mean, a new chinese ECU with control panel and remote is like$30-40. It's peanuts compared to a new OEM ECU.
However, if the connectors are adapted and the chinese control panel is used with a chinese ECU, will it then work with a Ebesrpächer/webasto unit? Does anyone know?
Basically the question is if the temp sensors, glow plug, fan motor, fan magnet and fuel pump are the same. I mean, a new chinese ECU with control panel and remote is like$30-40. It's peanuts compared to a new OEM ECU.
Yngmar
Well-known member
The sensors aren't the same, they may or may not be compatible, but as the whole heater can be had around €100 now it probably makes more sense to buy a new kit and sell the genuine one you got for parts. You'll probably come out a couple hundred ahead that way.
Beware, not all the Chinese parts are interchangeable. I've seen different sensor connectors and incompatible controllers (tested myself) so far.
Beware, not all the Chinese parts are interchangeable. I've seen different sensor connectors and incompatible controllers (tested myself) so far.
pcatterall
Well-known member
Somebody posted a photo ( on that facebook page) of a 'Chinese ' fuel pump that had been installed under his vehicle for 12 months it looked like it was rusted almost through.
I service Eberspachers and have had hundreds of them, some many years under vehicles. This was by far the worst. So possibly a good idea to paint the pumps before installing?!
Rappey
Well-known member
I've ran over 300 hrs with my chinese 5kw. Brilliant thing.
I wonder how many chinese heater failures are more due to user installation faults?
Saw a youtube blog where the guy fitted one in his sailing boat and it was pretty shocking.
The guy didn't appear to have much idea what he was doing.
A person with good practical skills would know if a join is good or needs improving.
I would guess if you buy chinese to save a lot of money then paying for an instalation would not make a lot of sense.
I ended up buying genuine ducting and insulation as I know it would survive in a marine environment.
I looked at many other options but needing 75mm reduces choices.
The proper insulation is very thin but is extremely efficient and damp proof.
As most parts seem to be around £10 I would buy two at a time, building up spares for that cold winters night when it could let you down.
I wonder how many chinese heater failures are more due to user installation faults?
Saw a youtube blog where the guy fitted one in his sailing boat and it was pretty shocking.
The guy didn't appear to have much idea what he was doing.
A person with good practical skills would know if a join is good or needs improving.
I would guess if you buy chinese to save a lot of money then paying for an instalation would not make a lot of sense.
I ended up buying genuine ducting and insulation as I know it would survive in a marine environment.
I looked at many other options but needing 75mm reduces choices.
The proper insulation is very thin but is extremely efficient and damp proof.
As most parts seem to be around £10 I would buy two at a time, building up spares for that cold winters night when it could let you down.
Kai_
New member
each to their own,
but ill be putting a genuine Eberspacher unit in my boat.
I like to save money but I never cheap out on safety, sure it may be a low risk, but its still a risk.
so many variables, China like to save a buck, so who knows what they've cheaped out on, and how well these last in a marine environment.
Would be interesting to see a proper tear down and testing of certain failure conditions on these Chinese units though.
but ill be putting a genuine Eberspacher unit in my boat.
I like to save money but I never cheap out on safety, sure it may be a low risk, but its still a risk.
so many variables, China like to save a buck, so who knows what they've cheaped out on, and how well these last in a marine environment.
Would be interesting to see a proper tear down and testing of certain failure conditions on these Chinese units though.
pcatterall
Well-known member
Yes, some proper tests would be great but there is a massive variety of these 'Chinese' units from different manufacturers and components are not compatible.
I found it difficult to determine the actual manufacturers or which specific model they made.
guardian
Active member
I think that's the problem from observations helping people install them. The quality, ( especially in the castings) varies greatly, I feel i've been lucky with the three i've purchased, the one in the workshop is regularly buried under a ton of sawdust, i simply blow all the dust out and it fires up every time. The one i have in the van i put on a switch as that models LCD controller wouldn't turn off and kept draining the battery but other than that they've both kept me very warm.
With recent purchase experiences i've had via Aliexpress the delivery times seem to be endless and two orders got lost last month, in fairness the suppliers both refunded me with 48 hours of raising the issue. Was using this way to purchase consumables for the workshop, blades, drill bits, abrasives etc as it was less than half the price of what i was buying here and still the same low to middle quality.
But now i'm not saving as much as i was a couple of years back especially on electronics and power tools and the delivery times are getting steadily ridiculous (just over 5 weeks for one order) so there doesn't seem as big a pull to buy from China anymore. That said the diesel heaters still make financial sense as you can buy a unit for £100 - £150 when a webasto eber etc are still upwards of a grand.
Rappey
Well-known member
I bought one the same time as a friend did. Identical heater but his display lights up the moment the boats power is on, stays on and draws power.
Mine lights for 5 secs then shuts down drawing nothing until the on switch is pressed.
It's the control panel that's different on our two.
We both bought digital displays after getting bored with the rotary knob !
The screens are the same size but his casing is wider and the buttons are the other way around to mine.
Would say the secret to whether it draws power or not with a live feed is within the display type ?
Mine lights for 5 secs then shuts down drawing nothing until the on switch is pressed.
It's the control panel that's different on our two.
We both bought digital displays after getting bored with the rotary knob !
The screens are the same size but his casing is wider and the buttons are the other way around to mine.
Would say the secret to whether it draws power or not with a live feed is within the display type ?