Boat

Thank goodness for that.Bet you did'nt pay just a couple of grand for it though unless someone has been very charitable.
By the way I'd add another jubilee clip to that exhaust hose connection,looked a bit dodgy.
 
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A frame

Leave well alone, it's done OK for the last 40 yrs.
I don't have any problem sitting on mine. It cleans up very well with Oxalic acid and elbow grease/stiff brush.
It's much easier to keep clean than the ones with wood slats to trap black gunk under them.
We have a couple of cockpit seat cushions which go below when beating 'coz they end up int the bottom of the cockpit and are more trouble than they are worth.

Well done, it looks a tidy boat and will buff up grand.

I have some battens holding the saloon headlining up, only 2 but they do the job OK. No curtain rail in the head or forecabin to wedge battens behind though.

I removed the lining in the head and hanging locker and temporarily replaced it with laminate flooring underlay 4 years ago.

I like the stripe on the hull, I could do with one of those.

I think that lowering the mast yourself will need a pole or better still an A frame. I'll look to see if I can find pics of the pole systen on my 20'er.


I am thinking that an A frame made of some 2 x 2 might work

I am with you on the treadmaster

don't get into a stupidly dull and unnecessary job..... however.... I live with Jill and not with you

although sound like a very nice man

I was wondering about just splitting the hedlining in a diagonal cross of st Andrew shap, peeling the four trriangles back and then glue gunning it back to the roof

the stripe is pretty badly beat up

D
 
Thank goodness for that!

But what a pessimist putting an o/b on the back!

You will be installing a whale alert and and an ice warning system too, then

belt and braces, belt and braces

and my mantra is always have a [plan B and a plan c

I do not really want to live with a Tohatsu slumbering gently in the quarter berth - but....
 
that was my first techy question.... how do you get it off...

Don't even think about it. Treadmaster glue is infinitely strong and treadmaster itself is surprisingly weak. You'll have to chisel it off in a squillion tiny fragments and leave behind a surface so knackered that it will have to be covered with something else. I'd suggest buying some cushions.

Hmm. A thought. Can you smooth it off by taking off the diamonds, one at a time, with a sharp chisel?
 
Great stuff Dylan, why can't I find one like this?! However, if you do decide to sell, send me a PM please!!

Best of luck with the onward journey,

James
 
well,

I agree... in part

I shall try to be moderate with the number of posts

but long threads inevitably start to fall apart into pointless arguements as two eejits slug it out and everyone gives up

you really want to attract the attention of people who have recently had problems with treadmaster, rigging or alternators

If the thread is of no interest or the sanswer is simple then it sinks like a stone

I can only apologise for the length of the threads

at least I stick with them as opposed to going away and leaving people to speculate

the problem is that I have lots of specific questions - the rigging - how bad is it?

http://www.keepturningleft.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/rusty-rigging-SANY0069.jpg

http://www.keepturningleft.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/rusty-rigging.jpg


http://www.keepturningleft.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/rusty-riggingSANY0072.jpg

http://www.keepturningleft.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/rusty-roller-reefingSANY0070.jpg

incidentally the stills are off the old Xacti - now sold as a panasonic

they look pretty good to me despite the indifferent light and the postage stamp sized lens

other cameras are available..... but I have yet to find anything that matches these little blighters

D
 
Very sad about the well, I thought it was a grand plan. Hi Ho, new horizons and all that.

I used to take a bigger mast down singlehanded tho I was always happier with a glamorous assistant to assist.

The key is to get your A frame to pivot in the same plane as the mast pivot. You often need some arrangement or wooden block on deck to achieve this. I used a single spar which is fine as long as you brace it with lines, port and stb which are fixed to pivots ,again, in line with that of the mast - or the lines will fall loose or take charge as the mast falls.

Something to catch the mast on the pushpit and a line under the bow roller and back to a cockpit winch completes the ensemble.

Lower away smartly. A Faint Heart never made love to a pig, as they say in Lancashire.
 
"One thing Dylan, it may well be the photo but the gap between the skeg and the rudder balance looks a bit big ? Inviting ropes etc ?"

This'll send everyone into a frenzy: As well as the outboard bracket, you could fit gudgeon & pintles for a transom hung rudder :eek:



PS only joking, well done Dylan, but would've have loved to see how the well project went.
 
Well done Dylan. I'm sure you'll have a lot of fun.

I do have one concern though.

You started in a 19 footer. After a couple of years and in Norfolk you went up 3 feet. You're now further up the e coast and up another 3 feet in length.

At this rate, you'll be at 29 foot by the north of Scotland. 32 foot by the end of the Hebrides. 35 foot by Milford Haven.

You could end up back on the south coast in a MFV !!!!
 
- the rigging - how bad is it?

If you mean the rust weeps then I would say that is no problem. Take those plastic covers off the wires and give them a thorough clean with fresh water, there'll be loads of **** under them. You could replace the covers as long as you clean them each year. State of the wire? Who knows?, that's the trouble. The rigging screws look like chromed bronze so, apart from cosmetics, they are probably OK.
I would re-iterate what someone earlier said about removing and checking very carefully the U-bolt shroud plates, they do suffer from crevice corrosion inside the deck.
Having removed old treadmaster I'd advise removal as a very last resort. If you can sand down the diamonds that may be the way to go.
 
I was wondering about just splitting the hedlining in a diagonal cross of st Andrew shap, peeling the four trriangles back and then glue gunning it back to the roof

If it's the original Westerly head lining then I'm afraid that won't work. The problem isn't that the glue fails; it's that the foam backing starts disintegrating and there ain't no glue around which can stick to fine brown powder.

Is the headlining original, though? It generally descends at about 25 years, so I'd have expected a 1978 boat to turn into a Bedouin tent about ten years ago. If you have a badly glued replacement then reglueing might well be an option.
 
If it's the original Westerly head lining then I'm afraid that won't work. The problem isn't that the glue fails; it's that the foam backing starts disintegrating and there ain't no glue around which can stick to fine brown powder.

Is the headlining original, though? It generally descends at about 25 years, so I'd have expected a 1978 boat to turn into a Bedouin tent about ten years ago. If you have a badly glued replacement then reglueing might well be an option.

bum....

it might have to come down then - I might try the old camping mat as an alternative

D
 
so does that mean that the keels have been partially strengthened?

I think that I will put a bracket on the back carrying the Tohatsu gives me a plan B in event of the inevitable lobster pot encounter


I think those webs are standard construction however note that one of them has separateed from the hull on one side and an attempt to re glass it made without removing the nearby nut and washer!!!!!!


Could be a good boat however do not forget a good mask when ripping down the headlining...Well shall we say letting it fall down! The foam dust is harmful.

The 2002 is a good engine but check if it's serial number is in the early range when it was supplied with a non sprung drive plate which caused fretting and failure of the gear box drive splines. If the drive is a hex and not splines then the mod has been done. This is spotted by undoing the gearbox and pulling it rearwards from the engine. Something for one of your smaller willing helpers while ashore.

The keels will be fine with a few coats of Primocon after giving them a going over with a coarse disc sander.

The decks will need some of Tesco's best Cif before the Non skid application!
 
Dylan

Go for your life with the number of posts...I'm sure we are all excited to see what you do to the boat. Personally, when I tune out is when you end up with multiple threads running about the same topic...there must have been 6 specifically about wells, and then it just becomes a jumble as people are trying to keep up with contributions across a number of different threads. But of course it wouldn't work to ask for advice about standing rigging on the end of a fibreglassing thread!

I'd agree with the treadmaster thing. A nightmare to remove and could be hiding nasties. I bought some of these this year (that colour to match my canvaswork!) and they are brilliant. Washable, move them to wear you want them, and a good size. Sailed for years just sat on the cold hard cockpit seats and now we don't go anywhere without them. Any good?

CU-RE-BRG.jpg


https://www.patio-gardenfurniture.c...ns/recliner-cushion-in-burgundy/prod_468.html

Agree with the others on the stripe. I really like it, makes the boat look more modern, and you could almost change the graphic to "OceanCentaur" or "CentaurRanger" and get away with it. Will it buff up at all?
 
it might have to come down then - I might try the old camping mat as an alternative

I've seen pictures of boats in which the old headlining has been held up with thin wooden battens. It looks OK if not great. I don't know, though, how they hold the battens in place. If the deck is thick enough (balsa core) it should be easy enough just to use screws.
 
I think those webs are standard construction however note that one of them has separateed from the hull on one side and an attempt to re glass it made without removing the nearby nut and washer!!!!!!


Could be a good boat however do not forget a good mask when ripping down the headlining...Well shall we say letting it fall down! The foam dust is harmful.

The 2002 is a good engine but check if it's serial number is in the early range when it was supplied with a non sprung drive plate which caused fretting and failure of the gear box drive splines. If the drive is a hex and not splines then the mod has been done. This is spotted by undoing the gearbox and pulling it rearwards from the engine. Something for one of your smaller willing helpers while ashore.

The keels will be fine with a few coats of Primocon after giving them a going over with a coarse disc sander.

The decks will need some of Tesco's best Cif before the Non skid application!

do you mean in this image....

http://www.keepturningleft.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/bolts-SANY0062.jpg

and this one

http://www.keepturningleft.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/boltsSANY0060.jpg

I can see that some-one has had a go at them - it seems to have stuck



grear box.....

if it is the old type is failure inevitable?

does it suddenly go? or does it warn you?

as for the treadmaster - I will clean it and use scatter cushions

unless Jill tellsme otherwise

the only reason she went for Katie L was that she liked the cockpit

"what has it got to do with her?" you might say

wel.... the boss has to be kept happy

but maybe clean and paint in a colour of her choosing might placate her

I can do that stuff while the boat is afloat

D

PS - I just read that last but one sentence about placating - who am I kidding!
 
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Headlining in saloon with battens:



Replacing the headlining is too scary to contemplate.
Removing the windows to tuck the new stuff behind the frames will be hard, I have tried to shift some of the interscrews without sucess.
The edges are tucked behind ply pannels on the bulkheads at either end too.
I can't see how the companion way bulkhead ply is fixed, I suspect glue but daren't investigate further than I have for fear of breaking something.

Scrub it and sail it.

Added, the battens are exactly the right length and wedge behind the curtain rail. The rail runs the full length of the saloon.
 
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Hi Dylan, glad you have a proper boat and have joined the ranks of the blessed! Looks like she will scrub up nicely! BTW I read in the last Westerly Magazine that International don't do the light blue deck paint any longer. I suppose there might still be some in stock. They did suggest mixing other colours to make it but I can't remember which. I'll look it up if you need to know. My only other thought is, will you want to let her go when you have done the trip? You know how you have hankered for a Centaur for a while now!
 
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