Boat Wiring

[C08]

Some of my wiring is untidy/messy with a long choc block series of connections and not well labelled. I have been looking for a connector block system that I can label and perhaps with lever wire clamps rather than screws. I am struggling to find the sort of thing I want. Any pointers in the right direction please.

 

[rogerthebodger]

I have used for years DIN rail mounted terminal blocks the make it easy to insert any extra connection in a lime of terminals.

I use wire numbers to identify the wiring at each end and marking on the drawing.

Others use a lever wire clamp; I prefer screw clamps with a proper flat/leaf wire clamp

https://flic.kr/p/WYQ7ar

 

[Tranona]

12voltplanet.co.uk/wago-221-compact-splicing-connector-multi.html
Example of them in use in the photo. I also make up panels for example for all the mast wire connections below deck. Dymo printed labels as appropriate. They can also be used freestanding.

 

[andsarkit]

I also quite like spring clamps rather than screws for low power wiring.
I always seem to run out of space in wiring boxes so tend to use small terminals where possible. I have used Wago 260 (1.5mm 10A) and Wago 261 (2.5mm 15A) and Wago 264 (2.5mm 20A 15mm DIN rail top entry).
If you have lots of space then CPC or RS have lots of suitable terminals for standard 35mm DIN rails. Using coloured terminals can help to organise the layout and plug in bus bar combs help with power distribution. Don't forget to add extra terminals for later expansion.
Trunking as shown above is a great way to tidy the wires and allow you to add extra wires later.

 

[B27]

I bought a nice cheap 12way fuse box from ebay, under 20 quid.
It has a +ve bus built in, supplying the fuses and a -ve bus with 12 screws to accept forks or eyelets.

That eliminates a lot of the complication.
It avoids the need for any of the DIN rails or choco-blocks in the pictures above

From my work in other fields, I like to avoid bringing multiple systems together when it's not necessary, I have separate panels for various things like Nav lights and cabin lights etc, which makes it much easier to see what's going on.
Also by having a small switch and fuse panel by the companion way, the cable runs for some high current items are much shorter than if they were switched at the chart table. E.g. heater and autohelm.
I have a separate small fuse box for the unswitched stuff like solar charging connection to the batteries.

I don't think this is the seller I bought from:
12 Way Blade Fuse Box 12V 32V Block & Auto Marine FuseBox Holder Bus Bar Car Kit | eBay
But it's the kind of thing. Those auto blade fuses seem pretty reliable and you can plug in an ammeter in place of a fuse for testing.

I think the best approach to joining wires is to avoid the joins by design wherever possible.

Inevitably there are a few 'commoning blocks' to go from one 'cabin lights A' switch to several cabin lights for instance, some of these are wago and some are random stuff that doesn't need fixing because it just works.

I also like keeping the current loops small to avoid issues with compasses, that's easier to do treating things as a few subsystems than if your heater and auto pilot are wired to great long bus bars that do everything.

It's a work in progress..

 

[Boathook]

I'm using more wagos for joining wires on board. I do have bus bars on board near the majority of switches to bring the big cables closer to where required. The majority of the fuses are the auto blade type that seem to work well.

 

[C08]

I bought a nice cheap 12way fuse box from ebay, under 20 quid.
It has a +ve bus built in, supplying the fuses and a -ve bus with 12 screws to accept forks or eyelets.

That eliminates a lot of the complication.
It avoids the need for any of the DIN rails or choco-blocks in the pictures above

From my work in other fields, I like to avoid bringing multiple systems together when it's not necessary, I have separate panels for various things like Nav lights and cabin lights etc, which makes it much easier to see what's going on.
Also by having a small switch and fuse panel by the companion way, the cable runs for some high current items are much shorter than if they were switched at the chart table. E.g. heater and autohelm.
I have a separate small fuse box for the unswitched stuff like solar charging connection to the batteries.

I don't think this is the seller I bought from:
12 Way Blade Fuse Box 12V 32V Block & Auto Marine FuseBox Holder Bus Bar Car Kit | eBay
But it's the kind of thing. Those auto blade fuses seem pretty reliable and you can plug in an ammeter in place of a fuse for testing.

I think the best approach to joining wires is to avoid the joins by design wherever possible.

Inevitably there are a few 'commoning blocks' to go from one 'cabin lights A' switch to several cabin lights for instance, some of these are wago and some are random stuff that doesn't need fixing because it just works.

I also like keeping the current loops small to avoid issues with compasses, that's easier to do treating things as a few subsystems than if your heater and auto pilot are wired to great long bus bars that do everything.

It's a work in progress..

That is an interesting option - thanks.