Bleeding a Yanmar 230hp

alapmac

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I have a 2001 Nimbus 310 with Yanmar 230hp 4LH-STE. I am getting conflicting advice on what element to use in the Racor pre filter. I currently have 30 micron but some suggest 10 micron, I also I intend to change the fine filter. I am unable to identify any bleed nipples on the Yanmar it has a YPES-AL inline injector pump. Any guidance on the bleed technique would be much appreciated. Thanks Tony
 

volvopaul

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Common rail engines 10 micron, yours and other old style tech engines 30 micron as the 2 micron filter on the engine does the rest.

Ive had difficulties bleeding the 4hla inline pump, so as a matter of course I always change the fuel filters when the engine is warm incase the batteries are not up to scratch.

Change prefilter, drain debris from bowl etc, change secondary filter on engine, and not one you can fill with fuel to pre prime the engine as its such a stupid old design, why on earth didnt they use the spin on from the 6lp?? at least yo can fill it up first then fit it.

Bleed through with hand primer, slacken off injector pipes and crank untill fuel can be seen spitting out, tighten pipes and crank again till she fires with some throttle, pull back to idle when its on all four. A modern engine with old style tech, reminds me of th old perkins days!
 

Kipper

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Yes I accept that they are a bit old fasshioned but mine never missed a beat really in 8 years were pretty easy to maintain and the only issue i got was a cracked site glass which took ages to find but 10 mins to fix.
The bleeding through is key though, bit messy but does the job as long as you do it thoroughly.
 

alapmac

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Thanks for the information. When you say bleed through I assume that I need to crack the banjo between the fine filter outlet to the injector pump as I have no bleed nipples, then pump primer which should fill the fine filter and eject air. Next move on to the injectors.
 
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