Microspec
Member
The trouble is the plastic pipe has now fallen into the sump, and Ican't see it any more! I've tried VOLVO to see if the dipstick tube can be removed, but they say it has been pressed in and would be hard to replace!
BIG TROUBLE
- Thread starter Microspec
- Start date
Wandering Star
Well-Known Member
Hmmm - I'm guessing at least 75% of the replies were based on retrieving the tube from a scenario where it was still partially in the dipstick hole, don't you think it would have been considerate to have made it clear much earlier on that the tube was in the sump?
Nevertheless, I would stick with my original suggestion that I wouldn't worry about doing anything about it.
Of the suggestions for retrieving it from the sump, my choice would be to cut a hole in an accessible area of the sump, remove tube, then seal hole with a plate, can't remember whose suggestion that was but it seems the easiest, though as I say, I'd just leave it!
Cheers, Brian.
Nevertheless, I would stick with my original suggestion that I wouldn't worry about doing anything about it.
Of the suggestions for retrieving it from the sump, my choice would be to cut a hole in an accessible area of the sump, remove tube, then seal hole with a plate, can't remember whose suggestion that was but it seems the easiest, though as I say, I'd just leave it!
Cheers, Brian.
cliffordpope
Well-Known Member
To be fair, the OP did say it had fallen down, but the subsequent speculation about retrieving it from the tube was not contradicted, so the idea grew that it might still be reachable.
I'd go for;
1) Trying dropping the sump a bit and hooking with a bit of wire, or if that fails,
2) Leaving it
It reminds me of the office kettle story. After years of use someone decided to clean the kettle, and discovered a bleached mouse skeleton inside.
I'd go for;
1) Trying dropping the sump a bit and hooking with a bit of wire, or if that fails,
2) Leaving it
It reminds me of the office kettle story. After years of use someone decided to clean the kettle, and discovered a bleached mouse skeleton inside.
RamothCrew
New Member
I dropped a tube into the sump of our Volvo 2003
...tried to extract through the plug at the front of the engine after detaching gearbox and all pipes and control cables. Found a grid blocking access to sump. Helped mechanic to remove the engine to his bench so that the front and rear of engine could be removed. This is the only way to gain access to the sump to remove anything, as the sump is a single casting, featuring the bearing cases for crankshaft.
Mechanic took opportunity to flush cooling system, replace exhaust manifold and mountings, re-sprayed...all rather expensive, but worth it for a brilliant engine that will last for many years to come.
...tried to extract through the plug at the front of the engine after detaching gearbox and all pipes and control cables. Found a grid blocking access to sump. Helped mechanic to remove the engine to his bench so that the front and rear of engine could be removed. This is the only way to gain access to the sump to remove anything, as the sump is a single casting, featuring the bearing cases for crankshaft.
Mechanic took opportunity to flush cooling system, replace exhaust manifold and mountings, re-sprayed...all rather expensive, but worth it for a brilliant engine that will last for many years to come.
Leonidas
Well-Known Member
Use a smaller than the diptick diameter fish spear and insert it with the hinged barb folded . Once gone past the end of the plastic pipe pull back the rod. barb opens and voila !
Lakesailor
Well-Known Member
Those of us who have read the thread know it has fallen into the sump.
Oil strainer will prevent a blockage in the pick-up.
Fight between big end caps or cam (don't know the engine layout personally) and plastic pipe.
Who will win?
I'd leave it.
VicS
Well-Known Member
This thread dates from April 2009!
I fancy any replies now are a bit too late.
A pity we have never had any feedback. It would be interesting to know if the OP has been running the engine for 3 seasons with the pipe still in the sump without problems
I fancy any replies now are a bit too late.
A pity we have never had any feedback. It would be interesting to know if the OP has been running the engine for 3 seasons with the pipe still in the sump without problems
Lakesailor
Well-Known Member
Stap me. I fell for that one.
VicS
Well-Known Member
I nearly did too but I started reading from the beginning.
I was just thinking that it all seemed a bit familiar when I got to my reply at #8
Lakesailor
Well-Known Member
So.........what was the outcome, I wonder?
ghostlymoron
Well-Known Member
I posted a comment sometime ago suggesting that feedback would be useful but I can appreciate that once you have solved your problem you're not interested. My bet on the outcome of this one would be that he got a 'man' in and paid him.
SHUG
Well-Known Member
For a minuteI thought It was Groundhog Day!!!!!!
rakaaw
Well-Known Member
I read the post by RamothCrew as being the feedback.
VicS
Well-Known Member
Lakesailor
Well-Known Member
Seems likely.
However he could have mentioned who he was.
He went the expensive route then........
However he could have mentioned who he was.
He went the expensive route then........
KevB
Well-Known Member
As already said... remove the drain plug and fish around with a bent bit of wire.
lenseman
Well-Known Member
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You don't really explain which 'pipe' you are trying to 'screw out'? Are you referring to the steel extender pipe, if so, this is pressed into the block as explained by VicS and they can be removed by pulling directly upwards.
A method I have successfully used to do this is to clamp onto the top of the steel tube with a pair of Mole Grips BUT you have to insert a twist drill of exactly the correct ID into the top of the dip-stick extender tube.
Not wanting to teach about sucking eggs, you will begin by wrapping insulating tape around the top of the drill to stop it following the oil-drain plastic pipe. ["The Gas-Man Cometh" - Flanders and Swan]
Having got the Mole-Grips on the top of the steel dip-stick tube, a block and tackle will pull it out as long as it is a direct pull upwards and in line.
Replacement of the steel tube is a question of very light taps with a hammer until seated without deforming the tube.
I presume you are trying to remove the steel pipe to gain better access to the plastic tube? Then the opened paper-clip method would be eminently suitable or a cotton bud with superglue, push into your plastic pipe and wait for the cyanoacrylate to cure before removal.
Instead of a block and tackle, you could use a lever of the third order using the engine cam-chest (rocker box) as the fulcrum and the load to be lifted being the Mole-Grip and dipstick tube. This would probably be easier to setup and operate as you do not need too much force to remove the steel pipe:
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgu...5KMe3hAfF282YBA&sqi=2&ved=0CD0Q9QEwBQ&dur=278
Last edited:
ghostlymoron
Well-Known Member
lenseman
Lenseman, You obviously didn't spot the date of the posting or read till the end but I have good news for you - the offending piece of pipe was removed 2 years ago. He had the engine removed with professional help.You don't really explain which 'pipe' you are trying to 'screw out'? Are you referring to the steel extender pipe, if so, this is pressed into the block as explained by VicS and they can be removed by pulling directly upwards.
A method I have successfully used to do this is to clamp onto the top of the steel tube with a pair of Mole Grips BUT you have to insert a twist drill of exactly the correct ID into the top of the dip-stick extender tube.
Not wanting to teach about sucking eggs, you will begin by wrapping insulating tape around the top of the drill to stop it following the oil-drain plastic pipe. ["The Gas-Man Cometh" - Flanders and Swan]
Having got the Mole-Grips on the top of the steel dip-stick tube, a block and tackle will pull it out as long as it is a direct pull upwards and in line.
Replacement of the steel tube is a question of very light taps with a hammer until seated without deforming the tube.
I presume you are trying to remove the steel pipe to gain better access to the plastic tube? Then the opened paper-clip method would be eminently suitable or a cotton bud with superglue, push into your plastic pipe and wait for the cyanoacrylate to cure before removal.
Instead of a block and tackle, you could use a lever of the third order using the engine cam-chest (rocker box) as the fulcrum and the load to be lifted being the Mole-Grip and dipstick tube. This would probably be easier to setup and operate as you do not need too much force to remove the steel pipe:
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgu...5KMe3hAfF282YBA&sqi=2&ved=0CD0Q9QEwBQ&dur=278
RamothCrew
New Member
..interesting, but academic for me
I'm not the original poster, but having tried to get a solution from the thread, I thought I'd just add my experience.
I considered leaving the tube in the sump, but I thought that if the tube did cause a problem with the engine, it would be just at a really bad moment eg lea shore in a force 8.
Fishing for the tube with wires and grippers down the dipstick tube was interesting but completely useless - it was found curled up in the corner at the back of the sump.
Costs were half a day to get the engine out, half a day to strip down, half a day to reassemble, and half a day to replace plus a gasket set at £120 incl VAT (Volvo spares v expensive!).
I hope this helps anyone who finds themselves in a similar situation.
I'm not the original poster, but having tried to get a solution from the thread, I thought I'd just add my experience.
I considered leaving the tube in the sump, but I thought that if the tube did cause a problem with the engine, it would be just at a really bad moment eg lea shore in a force 8.
Fishing for the tube with wires and grippers down the dipstick tube was interesting but completely useless - it was found curled up in the corner at the back of the sump.
Costs were half a day to get the engine out, half a day to strip down, half a day to reassemble, and half a day to replace plus a gasket set at £120 incl VAT (Volvo spares v expensive!).
I hope this helps anyone who finds themselves in a similar situation.
LadyInBed
Well-Known Member
Was it an accident that could be claimed back on your insurance?
