Best way to make this connection?

[Refueler]

I bought a large set of various sized Heat connectors. The ones preloaded with low heat solder and heat shrink sleeve.

I tried joining wires with them ... gave up after 5 or 6 failed ...

The videos of them in use - must have been a completely different connector as they just would not hold anything at all ... I didn't have to pull - the wires literally fell out !!

 

[PaulRainbow]

It would appear that not everyone agrees "harsh-environment IDC contact design offers reliability over time, temperature, and vibration with a repeatable/consistent termination process while allowing for reparability if needed."
TECHNICAL PAPER TECHNICAL PAPER - kyocera avx

That's absolutely fine. Feel free to use whatever you want, i'll stick with ones i know to be the best.

BTW, your link does not work.

 

[oldmanofthehills]

The ones i linked to are crimp connectors, the solder versions are total rubbish. If you buying those, then crimping and soldering them. you're wasting time, just buy the crimp ones.

They seem to work well for my son. The ultra low temperature solder probably does not have great mechanical strength but it has good conductivity and connectivity. The shrink shell provides the strength.

Its not as if the OP is planning to hang the light from the wires

 

[PaulRainbow]

They seem to work well for my son. The ultra low temperature solder probably does not have great mechanical strength but it has good conductivity and connectivity. The shrink shell provides the strength.

Its not as if the OP is planning to hang the light from the wires

How do you get "good conductivity and connectivity" when all that's holding the wires together is some heatshrink tube ? You would get a better joint if you twisted the wires together and taped them.

"Working well" means long term security and a low resistance connection.

 

[Rappey]

You would get a better joint if you twisted the wires together and taped them.

That's a great method as it makes it so much easier to take apart to fix

 

[PaulRainbow]

That's a great method as it makes it so much easier to take apart to fix

It's cheap too

Instructions for this joint can be found here Western Union splice - Wikipedia

 

[MontyMariner]

That's absolutely fine. Feel free to use whatever you want, i'll stick with ones i know to be the best.

BTW, your link does not work.

IDC contacts are used in pc's, tablets, phones, automotive industry, chart plotters et al, they seem to have a good track record.
Sorry, I can't get the link to work.

 

[PaulRainbow]

No matter what, no matter how simple, there's always someone who wants to argue that his shit way of doing things is better than the professional methods. I often wonder why i even bother, perhaps i should join every other marine electrician in the country, who does not post on YBW.

 

[Alex_Blackwood]

IDC contacts are used in pc's, tablets, phones, automotive industry, chart plotters et al, they seem to have a good track record.
Sorry, I can't get the link to work.

Then why is it that even the Openreach engineers, at least the ones I have spoken to, don't like them because of the high failure rate in outside environments? I think I would stick with PR he quotes from experience you are quoting from a link that you can't get to work

 

[Bodach na mara]

Then why is it that even the Openreach engineers, at least the ones I have spoken to, don't like them because of the high failure rate in outside environments? I think I would stick with PR he quotes from experience you are quoting from a link that you can't get to work

Re IDC joints, there is a difference between phones, PCs, tablets etc. and joining wires behind the lining on a boat. The first group of items are used kept in dry places out of the rain. Even chart plotters are usually mounted in sheltered places and often removed when not in use. Joints in wires are often behind the lining of the cabin or inside the mast. Some of the joints on my boat are even in the chain locker.

Behind the lining is a place that we hope is dry but often isn't. It can get damp due to leaks or condensation. Inside the mast is even more likely to be damp. As for the chain locker ----.

 

[PaulRainbow]

IDC contacts are used in pc's, tablets, phones, automotive industry, chart plotters et al, they seem to have a good track record.
Sorry, I can't get the link to work.

All of the above only sue IDC connectors on internal ribbon cables.

As for automotive industry, anyone here ever have a towbar where the electrics were connected using Scotchloks ? How many times did the trailer lights play up because of these ? Thankfully, with the advent of canbus, these don't tend to get used often these days.

 

[TSB240]

IDC and ribbon cables Tell me about them. Classic reason for many throwing out perfectly good Raymarine C series displays with damp or corroded IDC connectot pins and ribbons.

My first check on any boat I work on is for a choc block connector.
They really are the spawn of the devil!

The low temp solder only inline joiners are nearly as bad.

 

[Alex_Blackwood]

For what it is worth, I would be inclined to open the fitting and pull these wires back inside, looks as though they come through a gromet, if required fit a new gromet and feed in the cable and either remove the existing wires and connect straight to the connections, or make the connection with heat shrink and crimps to the existing wires in the fitting.

 

[MontyMariner]

The first group of items are used kept in dry places out of the rain.

In fairness, I did point to gel filled connectors.
The OP was thinking of using a gland assembly so I assumed his electrical knowledge was limited. Personally, I would get rid of the bear wires, drill out a hole, suitably waterproofed, big enough to take the sheathed boat wiring cable and connect that internally in the light, as someone back a bit in the thread, I think, suggested.