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rogerthebodger

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Vyv

does standard gelcoat harden fully

I was under the impression that standard gelcoat sts to a tacky finish to allow the layup resin to adhere fully.

I was under the impression the the gelcoat for overcoat was different.

I'm not an expert on polyester resin
 

fisherman

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I bought a boat that had been painted with Perfection. I was always recoating it. My mate kept the boat we had worked, and never touched it until it came to selling it. 1986 boat, sold in 2009. Red, so it faded badly, but polished up fine. I wish mine had been left as original. leave it, polish it when you want to sell.
 

Snowgoose-1

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Where do you buy your Awlgrip stuff Lightwave? One of the issues with Awlgrip is trying to get small amounts for maintenance.



My hull has had two Awlgrip resprays, one c 1992 once c 2008. It's now looking pretty faded and really needs another. That's the thing with paint finishes, eventually you need to go back to square 1, like a re-engine, it's a big ticket job.
If your hull is white and basically sound, I would keep it that way as long as possible. If it is very poor or damaged I would consider re-gelcoating rather than paint.

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I wonder why most folks , including me, paint rather than apply gelcoat.
I'm guessing that it's difficult to apply and obtain a nice finish for the average DIY boat owner.
 

vyv_cox

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Vyv

does standard gelcoat harden fully

I was under the impression that standard gelcoat sts to a tacky finish to allow the layup resin to adhere fully.

I was under the impression the the gelcoat for overcoat was different.

I'm not an expert on polyester resin
'normal' gelcoat is air inhibited, so if laid down in a mould the external surface will harden but the inside remains slightly sticky for good adhesion to the subsequent layup. If constructing in the reverse way without a mould, e.g. foam surfboards, wax is added to the gelcoat to provide a non-sticky outer surface. This can be purchased as flowcoat.
 

vyv_cox

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I wonder why most folks , including me, paint rather than apply gelcoat.
I'm guessing that it's difficult to apply and obtain a nice finish for the average DIY boat owner.
A much longer job requiring more skill. Lots of sanding involved for a large area like topsides. As I wrote earlier the couple who gelcoated theirs took about a month in total, in Greece so the temperature was ideal. They started gelcoating the cockpit but found it too difficult to rub down and control runs, so used two-pack paint instead.
 

Sea Change

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A much longer job requiring more skill. Lots of sanding involved for a large area like topsides. As I wrote earlier the couple who gelcoated theirs took about a month in total, in Greece so the temperature was ideal. They started gelcoating the cockpit but found it too difficult to rub down and control runs, so used two-pack paint instead.
Is it a bit like plastering, where unless you're very skilled you end up spending hours sanding it back to a good finish?
 

rogerthebodger

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'normal' gelcoat is air inhibited, so if laid down in a mould the external surface will harden but the inside remains slightly sticky for good adhesion to the subsequent layup. If constructing in the reverse way without a mould, e.g. foam surfboards, wax is added to the gelcoat to provide a non-sticky outer surface. This can be purchased as flowcoat.

Ok Thanks that is what I thought so its flowcoat you use not gelcoat
 

fisherman

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Flocoat is usually for finishing the inside of a moulding, ie not the gel coat side. It can be very critical getting the best finish, in terms of application, temperature and mix. If not well done it is not slick and soon picks up dirt.
 

Refueler

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When I painted my Alacrity many years ago ..... International Perfection (Topsides) was paint I used ....

It was designed for brush or roller and the International Rep - who I knew from shipping as well - who advised on its use - said that it was not intended for spray application. The flow properties of the coating was specific for hand application.

Maybe its changed since then - painting boat hulls is not something I have done for quite a while !!
 

fisherman

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The problem with Perfection for me was British racing green. Only commercial outfits could get the grey undercoat, the rest only got white, but even grey took a lot of covering. Since the hull was green already I just did a top coat, which was only half good enough for a FV, which was going to get beaten up in any case.
 

Snowgoose-1

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Is it a bit like plastering, where unless you're very skilled you end up spending hours sanding it back to a good finish?
I tried a bit of plastering on a wall. It quickly became clear that I needed a professional to do the job.

The pro turned out to be an excellent plasterer. He told me that he was still learning after 30 years of doing the job.
 

Sea Change

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I tried a bit of plastering on a wall. It quickly became clear that I needed a professional to do the job.

The pro turned out to be an excellent plasterer. He told me that he was still learning after 30 years of doing the job.
Easy sand plaster is what you need for DIY. And a good wall sander on a pole.

Real plasterers can get a perfect finish with zero sanding required. Not a skill you learn overnight
 

iamtjc

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wax is added to the gelcoat to provide a non-sticky outer surface. This can be purchased as flowcoat
I seem to remember Andy at Boatworks today using a PVA solution (polyvinyl alcohol not the glue) sprayed on as an air excluder to harden up gelcoat. I tried this and it worked fine though I don't think it would have worked on a vertical surface (at least not with the homebrew PVA solution I was using.
 

Stemar

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I seem to remember Andy at Boatworks today using a PVA solution (polyvinyl alcohol not the glue) sprayed on as an air excluder to harden up gelcoat. I tried this and it worked fine though I don't think it would have worked on a vertical surface (at least not with the homebrew PVA solution I was using.
Quick reminder - it ISN'T PVA glue. I was most disappointed to find this out as I had half a gallon of the glue gathering dust in my workshop!
 
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