Best material for a boat cover?

[Captain Sillyboxes]

A couple of years ago I built a plywood and epoxy canoe and to my shame I still don't have a cover for it. I am planning to make one, I think I can borrow a heavy duty sewing machine for this project.

The idea is to make it from three pieces, port side, starboard side and top, with a zip up the centerline. The canoe sits on a contraption that dangles it against the side of my house so this arrangement will allow easy access.

But everywhere I look I see different advice about what material to use. I assume it needs to be breathable since the canoe is made from wood. I've seen "teflon coated acrylic" described as they best material and the same said of PVC.

Any insights or suggestions gratefully received.

 

[Gsailor]

A lightweight canvas?

Could paint with Nikwax (available from camping shops by the litre)

Is it a canoe (N American) or kayak? (Out of interest)

There are also materials on EBay by the roll (quite long - perhaps 2.5 metres) that are waterproof and uv proof - I bought a roll to make my own stack pack (that had fallen apart owing to UV degradation), but have since sold the boat ...

 

[Tranona]

Acrylic canvas is probably the dominant type of maaterial, most common brand names sunbrella and Sauleda. PVC coated is also use but is non breathable. Which you choose depends on the type of cover. If it is a fitted cover ten acrylic is probably the first choice.

 

[Sandy]

Do you have a garage?

 

[Captain Sillyboxes]

Gsailor, it is an open canoe. The design is "waterman 13".

Sandy, I do have a garage but it takes up most of it and I would like to be able to use the garage for other projects!

 

[14K478]

I bought a Sailrite sewing machine and this winter’s project is to get to learn how to use it!

 

[doug748]

Could you dangle the canoe upside down?

Otherwise I would use coated acrylic which will last a long time and give max water resistance. You can then add slots for ventilation, with triangular covers, of the type used on old tents.

I have found this stuff gives good service:

SAULEDA ACRYLIC CANVAS, MARINE GRADE, PU COATED

.

 

[lustyd]

I'd use PVC Coated rather than just coated acrylic. PVC coated has a smooth, wipeable outer finish so when it goes green you can easily wash it. Anything with a canvas finish will need patiomagic or similar to remove the green and will be a pain in the neck for years to come. PVC will also ensure no water gets in while your design will need to ensure some breathability, although I doubt it will make a lot of difference to the wood either way if it's epoxied properly.

More importantly, use the correct thread. V69 or V92 will be better in the UV/outdoors and will not rot quickly. These will drive a requirement for a #18 needle or larger, which itself drives a requirement for a better sewing machine. Domestic machines can be used, but you'll curse every time the thread has an issue, or you'll use a smaller thread and curse when the cover falls apart later. Or worse, you'll curse when the plastic gears in the machine mash together and lock up - I killed two machines this way, although together they were maybe £200 and my Sailrite was...well I don't want to talk about that

Use plastic zips, #10 are probably right for your cover and you can use continuous chain zip so you don't need to know the exact length. Make sure to cover the zip with canvas to avoid UV issues.

 

[seumask]

Having made quite a few covers and various other Canvas work. Use PVC Coated Acylic canvas, V69, jeans needles, and Double sided tape to put it together. All of this can be obtained from Profabrics .co.uk, who offer a good price on most things you need for marine or similar canvas work. A heavy domestic sewing machine with the body made of metal work best it doesn't have to be a sailrite but they are pretty good. I used an old Janome new home machine until I got an old sailrite

 

[lustyd]

body made of metal

It's the gears that are the problem. Plastic ones sometimes mush themselves together when sewing heavy fabrics with multiple layers. The other issue is needle size and domestic machines can't take needles big enough for V69 so you end up with a slightly loose stitch because the hole isn't large enough. It does work, but it's a compromise. Certainly doesn't have to be a sailrite. I have one but only because I wanted the overpriced carry case, any clone of the same design will do just as well and can be had almost as cheap as a good domestic machine.

 

[Captain Sillyboxes]

Thanks for the suggestions everyone. So far I have purchased PVC coated acrylic canvas, V69 and a #10 zip. And made templates for the pieces I need to cut.

Now I just need to cajole my friend at the sailing club to lend me his heavy duty sewing machine

 

[PetiteFleur]

You can use a standard sewing machine for acrylic canvas. Use v69 polyester thread as mentioned and Size 16 or 18 needle. I've sewn acrylic canvas happily with an old singer, easily sews 3 thickness of acrylic canvas. Experiment first.

 

[Martin_J]

Whilst putting it together, think about chafe protection. Although acrylic canvas is great for lasting well under hot sun (UV), it really isn't that chafe resistant. It's very easy to wear a hole through it.

If there's going to be straps over it or the cover is tight around corners, either think about doubling it up in those areas or adding patches whilst making it.. It's easier to add them then now, than to try and add later.

Nice section in the article below about choosing between better UV resistance vs Chafe protection here..

Selecting the Right Marine Cover Fabric

 

[MontyMariner]

Now I just need to cajole my friend at the sailing club to lend me his heavy duty sewing machine

If that's a no-go try your local shoe repair shop, mine does ad-hoc stitching jobs for me at a very reasonable cost.