Best Glue for Repairing Teak Cockpit Grating - Also Any Tips for a Good Repair

mogmog2 said:
AFAIC, it's not the price - if a thing is decent and does the job properly it can be worth it, but I've never liked the hype behind Gorilla: it's an excellent marketing name & from previous reading, some of their stuff is (eg ) just expensive PVA - like West's products - fine but you're paying for the marketing.
Add to that recent world events and I look east rather than west as much as is practicable when there's not a homegrown option and companies like Soudal, Sika & etc usually have something. I've just come across Hippo glue, which seems to fit the bill and is available locally in Wickes, but I'll look up Bison.
Thanks for the tip about clamping
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Just looking at Bison - PU MAx (?) which states D4 - I notices an Everbuild D4 in Toolstation but moved on as it didn't mention foaming/gap-filling properties. Avoiding £7+ postage on a thing is always preferable :-D
 
Refueler said:
The amount of force PU glue can exhibit is significant and it is best to use proper clamps - not weights ... a tin of paint can be easily lifted !!

When I reglued my tiller laminate - I clamped it in a Workmate ...
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Thanks for the tip - I have a pair sash cramps and can almost certainly borrow more if necessary.
 
RunAgroundHard said:
... I'll let you know how it goes. ...
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On my grating there were old repairs done with Araldite, which lasted about 5 years, but became brittle and failed. The Gorilla Glue did not work as long, it foamed and filled the gap, looked strong but failed that season, and the next. In fact the rest of the grating started failing (all the slats were glued when built) and I bit the bullet and had new grating made.

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Foaming PU glue is quick & easy, It was a masterpiece of marketing to put it into tiny bottles & stick a picture of an angry gorilla on the front thereby making fools pay ten times as much for it.
It is ok indoors but has zero uv resistance so is useless outdoors, it goes orange & starts to break down within a few months.
 
Keith 66 said:
Foaming PU glue is quick & easy, It was a masterpiece of marketing to put it into tiny bottles & stick a picture of an angry gorilla on the front thereby making fools pay ten times as much for it.
It is ok indoors but has zero uv resistance so is useless outdoors, it goes orange & starts to break down within a few months.
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The tiny bottles aren't that bad an idea. Once open it quickly absorbs moisture and goes off, so unless you have a big project in mind a small bottle generally makes more sense.
 
No love for Aerolite urea-formaldehyde glue? I used to really like it...er...about 50 years ago, but it went off the market,

Seems to be available again now, but I dunno if the formulation is the same. IIRC you paint the resin and the formic acid hardner on opposing joint faces which should give you a lot of time to set up something fiddly and multi-parted like a grating.

There was a stronger phenol-formadehyde version (Aerodux?) but I never used that.
 
potentillaCO32 said:
I think thickened epoxy would be the most reliable bond.
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That was my initial thought, but it relies on brute strength and has no give - Ithe PU appeals a bit more as it has a bit of yield AFAICT. I'm thinking of a lurch and a heavy heel-down landing on the grating - quite an impact. Maybe even something else completely, or novel in the way if adhesive would work better, but I don't think I'm inclined to try 😄
 
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