Best Glue for Repairing Teak Cockpit Grating - Also Any Tips for a Good Repair

[RunAgroundHard]

I need to repair my cockpit grating. Some slats have popped out and need to be glued back in place and one of the long sides is opening from the matrix. The slats that have failed were previously repaired with Epoxy glue which has parted from the slats but remains firmly in place on the base teak and is brittle.

Looking for glue recommendations and any tips to effect a good repair?

I have a PVA Gorilla Wood glue, water resistant, that I repaired som kitchen chairs with, would that be suitable?

 

[emmalina]

epoxy glue !

 

[KREW2]

Cascamite

 

[Boater Sam]

Teak is an oily timber. Degrease with acetone (nail varnish remover ) before glueing with epoxy. Polyurethane wood glue like ape glue will not cut it.

 

[rogerthebodger]

I use polyurethane wood glue for all my woodwork.


I built a plywood stem dingy some time age and only used polyurethane wood glue . The only screws was fixing the bottom panel to the stem where I could not use a clamps

This is a hatch garage I made wher the strips are glued on with polyurethane wood glue

https://flic.kr/p/WM4fhk

 

[VicS]

I'd use a polyurethane glue such as Gorilla Original. Gorilla Glue - Incredibly Strong Original Gorilla Glue

( That's not Gorilla PVA wood glue )

However my experiences of repairing a Westerly cockpit grating were that the joints were very poor with big gaps which made any repair les than 100% satisfactory.

I dont believe the PVA glue will be good enough although otherwise it's my favourite.

Cascamite has never worked for me.

 

[rogerthebodger]

Cascamite i not truly waterproof, its water resistant

Its cascaphen that is the waterproof

Ureka | Products | Cascaphen Two Part Resin Glue - Structural

CASCAPHEN TWO PART RESIN GLUE - STRUCTURAL​

Cascaphen is a professional, two part glue has been specially developed for waterproof exterior use and can stand continuous immersion in water. This glue is so waterproof that boat builders use it.

 

[Refueler]

PolyUrethane Glue such as Gorilla Glue (Exterior grade Brown - not the interior grade white).

You can find a generic version of it DIY / Builders Merchants ...

Over here - the same glue is by Bison ::

I would chip away the Epoxy - its not the glue to use for this job - getting back to reasonable wood ... apply PU glue and keep joint pressed together so that the PU glue expands into all crevices but does not push parts apart. You could in fact apply a short self tapper into the rear ... but PU glue should do the job.
Brown is Seawater proof .. and excess can be easily sanded / carved away leaving flush joint. Being creamy brown - its OK to paint over in shade of stain ....

I would not use Epoxy as this is too brittle and with teak had poor mechanical grab. As OP has found out.

 

[PCUK]

Whatever you use, score the faces to be joined to give better adhesion.

 

[harvey38]

Titebond 3

 

[RunAgroundHard]

Thanks everyone for the tips, I'll take them all onboard, especially on cleaning up, abrading rough and acetone degreasing. The foaming Gorilla glue will likely be my choice but looking at the Titebond 3.

I'll let you know how it goes.

All the best.

 

[Humblebee]

Just another thought, can you find some similar sized strip of wood and fix them across below the joins? This would give extra surface area for glue and would also open up the possibility of screwing the pieces together. Hard to put in words but I'm sure you get the idea. Worked on the damaged grating on my old Westerly

 

[Daydream believer]

Oak & teak adhesive
May as well use the proper stuff

 

[Refueler]

Oak & teak adhesive
May as well use the proper stuff

Interesting ....

 

[RunAgroundHard]

Oak & teak adhesive
May as well use the proper stuff

Thanks for that. I buy my Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer from them.

 

[RunAgroundHard]

Oak & teak adhesive
May as well use the proper stuff

As always, a very good example of read the instructions

Application​

1. Never clean the surfaces with solvents even if you are gluing very oily wood such as Cocobolo or Teak. The wood absorbs these solvents which interferes with the penetration of the glue. Ultimately this will weaken the resulting joint. Oils contained naturally in the wood do not affect Oak and Teak Epoxy. This is a major advantage over our competitor products, which require the use of solvents that inevitably reduce joint strength
2. Apply the Oak and Teak epoxy to both surfaces of the joint. Now allow the wood to soak up as much as it wants to. End grain and porous woods such as the edges of plywood will soak up more. Scarf and Butt joints are especially prone to soaking up glue because of their end grain surfaces.
3. Allow the wood to soak up the adhesive, deep penetration gives strong joints. This stops the joint being starved of glue after assembly as the wood soaks the glue up then. Oak and Teak Epoxy has a long working time, you do not have to rush this stage
4. Clamp the joint using moderate pressure. The use of too much pressure will starve the joint of glue and weaken the joint