Battle plan for flushing heat exchangers .

aerobat

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Hello gents !

I think i will go forward and flush my heat exchangers hoping to bring a bit down my temps ( kad44 ) .

Ideally i would like to do it while in winter storage and i think i have a plan how to setup the piping on the turbo and impeller pump hoses , dillute the decalcer and circulate it via a bilge pump .

The basic situation : boat is on dry , fully winterized with heat exchangers full of antifreeze .

Beyond obvious caution on ambient temps when replace my antifreeze with the decalcer i,m asking myself how i remove the decalcer after i circulated it . Unfortunetaly i struggle to put my boat on muffs and fire it up to flush with fresh water.

Any creative ideas ? I do not think its an idea to leave the decalcer for a period of time in the heat exchangers .

Just drain the raw water side ?

Is it generally a way better idea to do it on the water since i canninstantly fire up the engines and even warm them up before flushing ?

Btw : i plan this as decalcer :


Antikalk LIQUI MOLY 25047 Marine Antikalk anti calcare Kanister 5 Liter | eBay.de

Thanks for any hints !
 
It is on my list of tasks when the boat comes out the water, the starboard engine raw water turbo intercooler seems to have a restricted flow, as long as I keep the revs low it runs within the normal temp range, but push the revs up and the flow does not increase, then the silicone hoses collapse from the suction.
I did reverse flush the raw water circuit with red Lyme but still not enough flow, so the intercooler has to come off. I did try and put an inspection camera into the intercooler but there are too many bends
 
Thanks ! I watched the videos and they arw great how to setup the circulation .

But i,m asking myself how to flush the descaler mix out of the system when on land . I think only way is firing up on muffs
 
I flushed my engines a few years ago with Wessex Proflush. I used a large plastic storage box fitted with a small bilge pump. I connected the feed pipe to the pipe on the raw water strainer and I removed the pipe that injects water into the water cooled exhaust and that returned the water to the storage box. I circulated the water for a few hours. Then I discarded the water from the storage box and replaced it with fresh water. A couple of minutes running it flushed it. I did that twice
 
Just out of interest, the folks who have had most success with cleaning heat exchangers by flushing the raw water system are very patient folks.
In one case on a Princess 360 the flushing of each engine took 3 hours in one direction and then reversed for another 3 hours.
The results were impressive.
 
I flushed my engines a few years ago with Wessex Proflush. I used a large plastic storage box fitted with a small bilge pump. I connected the feed pipe to the pipe on the raw water strainer and I removed the pipe that injects water into the water cooled exhaust and that returned the water to the storage box. I circulated the water for a few hours. Then I discarded the water from the storage box and replaced it with fresh water. A couple of minutes running it flushed it. I did that twice

Great idea ! Flushing with fresh water to getvthe decacler out of the system when boat in on land sound reasonable !

Did you started the circulation it with the raw watwr circuit drained or full ? Currebtly i have antifreeze in the raw water curcuit
 
You’ll need to drain the raw water system. My boat was in the water when I flushed it. I turned off the raw water inlet valve, removed the pipe off the valve and connected it to the flushing pump using a one way valve that caters for various sizes of hose. See photo below. Once I removed the hose from the inlet valve, most of the water in the engine drained into the bilge. You will need some sort of container to catch the antifreeze. IMG_3194.jpeg
 
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