Battery advice?

I would urge caution on any matters to do with electricity. Contemporary theory does not address all the vagaries and inconsistencies of practical electron flow and that is why a great surprise is to be had when the angry pixies jump out.
 
I read on another forum recently, something that went like ;

"The average internet forum contains enough "experts" to drown out those with real knowledge."

An interesting comment, i thought. Perhaps that's why there is a noticable lack of industry professionals posting on PBO ?

I reckon that those are fair comments Paul. However, I would say that if one stays with a forum for long enough, one begins to make a mental list of those forumites who obviously have sufficient practical experience know what they are talking about.

I'll that bet if everyone on PBO drew up a list of the 20 forumites who fall into this category, there would be at least 15 common names on each list.

As I often say on here "If I have to Google it, I don't post it" ;)

Richard
 
I would urge caution on any matters to do with electricity. Contemporary theory does not address all the vagaries and inconsistencies of practical electron flow and that is why a great surprise is to be had when the angry pixies jump out.

Everything will be fine as long as the magic blue smoke doesn't escape. That's what the pixies are really guarding. :rolleyes:
 
Couple of practical issues when I was putting together my order for 12v Planet.
When sizing fuses the quoted size is the continuous current, I presume if that is less than the quoted cable capacity it is okay or should I go down a size?
The very attractive easy to fit cube fuses recommended are deliberately designed to only accept one cable terminal so will not work on a multi battery bank (unless the terminals have an extra pillar for the link? mine don't). So both will be megalink fuses.
Just reporting in case anyone is extracting practical info. from the thread.

And I did not thank CTVA? for his offer to view his set up, appreciated Chris, but I think among all the debate I got what I needed.
 
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When I first got into boating, I was fairly ignorant of how wiring was done on a boat although I had knowledge of the theory (and units) through my A level physics and subsequent life experience. I bought Pat Manley's simple boat maintenance book which covers most of the theory and practice although the photos are self taken and pretty poor. This has enabled me to do a complete electrical installation on a Leisure 17 and fault find and modify several other boats.
There are endless resources on line for reference and I also found some contributers on this forum who are knowledgeable and trustworthy. The snag is identifying who they are. Also, beware dinosaurs who would have you install 1-2-B switches when there are better, failsafe systems available.
Batteries are an endless source of discussion. I think that for the average Joe, the best type for house batteries is a reputable make of lead acid leisure ones from battery megastore and for engine starting, a car type battery with adequate cold cranking capacity. Bear in mind that your only starting something like 20hp against 150 in your car so it doesn't need to be huge. Starter batteries also last a long time. My car battery is getting on for 10 years old and still kicks my big Audi into life after 120000 miles.
 
I don't recal giving any formulae, doing so would not acheive the aim of trying to get simply explain the difference between amps and amp hours. I beleive my explanation was simple enough for someone with little or no electrical knowledge to grasp a basic understanding of the differences.

Anyone frequenting these forums for information isn't interested in fancy formulae, all they want is an understandable description of how to deal with their issue. They don't come here for an education in electronics.

I been following this thread with interest , and Paul is spot on when he says "Anyone frequenting these forums for information isn't interested in fancy formulae, all they want is an understandable description of how to deal with their issue. They don't come here for an education in electronics."

Batteries are not my thing so when I need to ask some advice , I am looking for a answer I can understand not some thing that been google by someone who know not much more then me to impress others .
A simple straight forwards answer how to do the job is what we looking for .
 
The very attractive easy to fit cube fuses recommended are deliberately designed to only accept one cable terminal so will not work on a multi battery bank (unless the terminals have an extra pillar for the link? mine don't).

If you use this type of battery clamps
https://www.svb24.com/en/sc4-battery-pole-clamps.html
I think you will find that cube fuses could well be used on multi battery banks.
Search for 'MRBF fuse holder' to find a broader supply of fuse holders, such as:
https://www.svb24.com/en/mrbf-battery-pole-fuse-holder-with-10-mm-bore-and-m8-bolt.html
 
When sizing fuses the quoted size is the continuous current, I presume if that is less than the quoted cable capacity it is okay or should I go down a size?

In your case you are protecting the cables, so you are correct that if the fuse is rated less than or equal to the cable rating it's safe to use. You can also fit fuses of any rating between the maximum load you will subject the cable to and the caable rating. In this case i would fit 250a Megafuses to both banks. This will be more than enough and will allow you to start the engine from either/both banks.

The very attractive easy to fit cube fuses recommended are deliberately designed to only accept one cable terminal so will not work on a multi battery bank (unless the terminals have an extra pillar for the link? mine don't). So both will be megalink fuses.

You are correct there on both counts, apologies for not mentioning that earlier, slipped my mind. You could fit the link cable to the pinch bolt, but that's a bit ugly, better off with the Megafuses if you don't have the studs.
 
If you use this type of battery clamps
https://www.svb24.com/en/sc4-battery-pole-clamps.html
I think you will find that cube fuses could well be used on multi battery banks.

Cube fuses will not fit the stud on these.

Search for 'MRBF fuse holder' to find a broader supply of fuse holders, such as:
https://www.svb24.com/en/mrbf-battery-pole-fuse-holder-with-10-mm-bore-and-m8-bolt.html

The OP only has round, tapered battery posts, so nowhere to connect these to.

Both have uses, but unfortunately neither are suitable for the OP.
 
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I reckon that those are fair comments Paul. However, I would say that if one stays with a forum for long enough, one begins to make a mental list of those forumites who obviously have sufficient practical experience know what they are talking about.

I'll that bet if everyone on PBO drew up a list of the 20 forumites who fall into this category, there would be at least 15 common names on each list.

Richard

I think you're right there Richard, on all counts.
 
I been following this thread with interest , and Paul is spot on when he says "Anyone frequenting these forums for information isn't interested in fancy formulae, all they want is an understandable description of how to deal with their issue. They don't come here for an education in electronics."

Batteries are not my thing so when I need to ask some advice , I am looking for a answer I can understand not some thing that been google by someone who know not much more then me to impress others .
A simple straight forwards answer how to do the job is what we looking for .

Thanks for confirming my beleif Vic :encouragement:

And thanks to everyone else who said they understood my basic description, both on the forum and privately, appreciated.
 
Cube fuses will not fit the stud on these.



The OP only has round, tapered battery posts, so nowhere to connect these to.

Both have uses, but unfortunately neither are suitable for the OP.

No, he will need both.
Battery clamp goes on the round, tapered post. Fuse holder goes on the 10mm stud. Fuse goes on fuse holder. Neighboring battery connects to one of the other suitable bolts on the clamp.
Just an example of how it can be done. Whether suitable for the OP, I have no idea.
 
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