Barber hauler

PabloPicasso

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How do you size blocks for a barber hauler?

Or more specifically what size for a 26ft fin keel GRP AWB?

Would Barton snatch blocks suffice? Any advantage in more expensive makes?

What do the forumites suggest?
 
The barber hauler is a line used to move the jib clew in or out or down. So no real strength needed just a block large enough to handle the rope size you choose to use. ie 8,mm or so. any failure will just allow the jib clew to revert to its natural position. olewill
 
As an alternative to standard low friction rings its also worth having a look at Ronstan Shocks - http://www.ronstan.com/marine/shocks.asp they are sort of a low friction ring with two different sized holes one for the control line and one for the sheet and make setting up a 2:1 a lot neater.
 
Something I have thought of doing , but they need to be permanently fixed on the genoa sheet? is that better than a snatch block arrangement?

Yes, just run the sheet through them then use them if you need them. Otherwise just keep the slack out of the barber hauler line.
 
Something I have thought of doing , but they need to be permanently fixed on the genoa sheet? is that better than a snatch block arrangement?

You can leave them on permanently, or you can use the Antal Low Friction Hook.

This is a totally superior way to rig a barber hauler, as they are much stronger than blocks, much cheaper, and much lighter and less bulky. They won't bang your deck to death either.

I use low friction rings not only for my inhaulers, but also altogether for my sheet leads, instead of a jib car. This is for my 95% blade jib, for which the standard jib cars are far too far aft.

It works extremely well, and you can design in whatever purchase you need.

You have to learn to splice single braid dyneema, however, and make up dyneema strops, in order to use them. There's has been a great deal of discussion about this, including instructions for various types, on CF recently:

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/down-and-dirty-dyneema-strops-169533.html

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...-strops-eg-for-low-friction-rings-169764.html
 
Useful for me too, thanks for the pointers.

How much Humph does it take to adjust the haulers? I have peged cars and I can't adjust them under load, also a stanchion gets in the way so it's a car of two halves and just having towed cars wouldn't solve all the problems.

Will I need more winches for the haulers?
 
Useful for me too, thanks for the pointers.

How much Humph does it take to adjust the haulers? I have peged cars and I can't adjust them under load, also a stanchion gets in the way so it's a car of two halves and just having towed cars wouldn't solve all the problems.

Will I need more winches for the haulers?

I use twings with triple purchase for the sheet leads for my blade jib. They are smoother and require much less force than the remote controlled Lewmar cars used for the normal overlapping yankee jib. In fact I can adjust them under load with a small winch, although to avoid ripping the padeye out of the deck, I tend to slack the sheet a bit before adjusting.
 
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