Back to the UK for a winter refit

[jimmy_the_builder]

Looking at the pictures it is hard to believe this is the same part.

Different height, different alignment between the inlet / outlet, different position tubes on the side.

Dont suppose they have new old stock somewhere?

Any of these?

http://coastalrides.co.uk/index.php?route=product/search&search=riser

My old risers are in perfectly serviceable condition; the issue is that the old risers don't fit the new exhaust horns - and new exhaust horns have been fitted as recommended by the VP agent. So I need to use the new riser, in order to fit the new horn - but I need to mod the new riser to fit the constraints of the installation.

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

Kev, nice lateral. But you would end with unequal riser heights on the stairway, which is an absolute b'stard to negotiate up and down: hence why verboten in B Regs for houses.

The point of conflict is actually the bottom corner of the (single) companionway step. There just isn't a way to mod this without moving the step out and suddenly you're into massive work. Which would require the removal of the bathing platform. Which would require the removal of the engines...

 

[Richard.C]

Have you tried a custom exhaust place? If you took both pieces to a place that fabricates exhaust manifolds I would think they could remake the curved pipework more inline with your old pieces and using mandrel bent pipes instead of that shitty flattened 180 curve on the new piece.

 

[volvopaul]

Hi Jimmy , I guess you gave had the new style horns with the anode ? Most boats on one side have tohave a Grp modto fit, I understand that's it, so where is the difference that the riser won't fit?

 

[jfm]

Yep you can chop a bit out of both sides

Before cutting it I'd make a plywood jig against which the turbo flange and the other flange-like face sit hard. Then cut the 25mm out of both sides, and then fasten the two halves onto the jig before you start welding the U bend back on. Otherwise you'll never get the geometry right. In fact, better still weld a "bridge" made from a ~3 inch long offcut of ~25x4 s/s to join the two ends before you cut. Then make the two cuts to remove the U bend. The two ends will then stay perfectly together and in perfect alignment relative to each other even though the U bend has been removed. Then chop off the 25mm cut-aways from the U bend, weld the U bend back on, then grind off the "bridge"

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

Hi Jimmy , I guess you gave had the new style horns with the anode ? Most boats on one side have tohave a Grp modto fit, I understand that's it, so where is the difference that the riser won't fit?

These risers weren't released by Volvo Penta until after the T40 had ended its production run, so the boat hasn't been modded to accept them.

 

[KevB]

My old risers are in perfectly serviceable condition; the issue is that the old risers don't fit the new exhaust horns - and new exhaust horns have been fitted as recommended by the VP agent. So I need to use the new riser, in order to fit the new horn - but I need to mod the new riser to fit the constraints of the installation.

If you are going to have to get the new riser re fabricated to fit why not just do away with the expense of the new risers and get the old one's fabricated to fit?

 

[volvopaul]

These risers weren't released by Volvo Penta until after the T40 had ended its production run, so the boat hasn't been modded to accept them.

Are we taking the new pipe from the shield that won't fit or the exhaust elbow from the turbo ? The later pipe has the anode housing and requires a mod in the hull sometime to accept it, this is even easier when the engine are out, most engineers and Grp men have the terrible task of doing this when the engines are still in situ, all be it moved as far forward as the builder has allowed it.

 

[jfm]

expense of the new risers

£00.00 plus VAT

 

[KevB]

£00.00 plus VAT

Oh yeah..

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

Have you tried a custom exhaust place? If you took both pieces to a place that fabricates exhaust manifolds I would think they could remake the curved pipework more inline with your old pieces and using mandrel bent pipes instead of that shitty flattened 180 curve on the new piece.

This was my thought as well, and given that Bob The Amazing Fabricator is on vacation today and tomorrow, I asked around locally and got a couple of recommendations to Pipecraft:

http://www.pipecraft.co.uk/

So I've just been off to see them this afternoon, very nice setup about 15 mins from here. If you know about engine development then you'll know that the fact these guys make exhausts for Ricardo is quite an endoresement.

The company is owned by a chap who keeps an S42 in Shamrock Quay, and he completely and immediately understood the problem and constraints. So, very kindly, they've agreed to jump straight on this and work has already started to cut and shut the riser.

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

Yep you can chop a bit out of both sides

Before cutting it I'd make a plywood jig against which the turbo flange and the other flange-like face sit hard. Then cut the 25mm out of both sides, and then fasten the two halves onto the jig before you start welding the U bend back on. Otherwise you'll never get the geometry right. In fact, better still weld a "bridge" made from a ~3 inch long offcut of ~25x4 s/s to join the two ends before you cut. Then make the two cuts to remove the U bend. The two ends will then stay perfectly together and in perfect alignment relative to each other even though the U bend has been removed. Then chop off the 25mm cut-aways from the U bend, weld the U bend back on, then grind off the "bridge"

In fact the very first thing the fabricator said when presented with the riser was 'I'll make a jig'. We're not going to do the bridge-weld thing you've mentioned here because it will be helpful to allow the turbo flange to rotate (it is perfectly circular) to meet the revised angle caused by chopping out some of that angled pipe. Bit hard to explain but I imagine you know what I mean.

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

Are we taking the new pipe from the shield that won't fit or the exhaust elbow from the turbo ? The later pipe has the anode housing and requires a mod in the hull sometime to accept it, this is even easier when the engine are out, most engineers and Grp men have the terrible task of doing this when the engines are still in situ, all be it moved as far forward as the builder has allowed it.

Exhaust elbow from the turbo. The new horn (with the anode housing etc) is already in place and fitted, no hull mod required. (It was fitted before we put the engine back in, as you'd expect).

 

[CharlieAlpha]

Good news then, you'll be able to swank around the Med telling everybody you have bespoke risers

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

Good news then, you'll be able to swank around the Med telling everybody you have bespoke risers

Well, one bespoke riser, at least

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

So the next job is to template the platform for teak. This is something I've never done before - any advice from anyone who has done it? What should I use - hardboard? Thin ply? Cardboard? Something else?

 

[petem]

£00.00 plus VAT

Yeah but the new ones could be flogged if he avoids using them! I'm sure Coastal Rides would bid him.

 

[mparrish]

Some of our kitchen fitters moved away from templating with hardboard and mdf to that corrugated plastic sheet because its more stable than mdf or hardboard - will probably be much better if the boat is back in the water when doing it !!
Mike

 

[benjenbav]

I used a plastic/hard foam sort of thing - can't quite remember, but was cuttable with a craft knife (as the A&E department referred to it; in the sense of "ah yes, another craft knife injury") but flexible and yet non-stretchable.

K J Howells made mine up from the templates I made and, just looking at their site now, I see they recommend using stiff cardboard or hardboard for the templates but I do remember I didn't - it was getting on for 10 years ago.

 

[jfm]

...as the A&E department referred to it...

Always worth tuning in for your posts M .

Actually Jimmy is on first name recent terms with A+E from another bit of diy-age

Yep I think i'd use that foam board that you can cut with a knife. Wattsons actually have a CNC templater, where they come around the deck with a wand that is attached to a computer and they wave it around the deck and it creates a CNC file of the shape of the deck, but (a) might be overkill for this and I wouldn't want to deprive Jimmy of a meet-up with his A+E mates, and (b) they wont reply to Jimmy's emails!