Back to the UK for a winter refit

+1 for can't believe the situation with the exhaust risers, or the pries quoted by VP.

We replaced elbows, risers and sprayheads on two VP D12-715s last year (basically everything from the turbo outlet to the GRP tunnel) on both engines and were advised by the local VP engineer to remanufacture from scratch using a S/S fabricator rather than try to buy components. Apparently specifications, fittings and even in some cases exact location of engines evolve over the life cycle of the boat (due to changes by both VP and boat manufacturer) and he had experienced problems fitting off-the-shelf parts in the past.

Our boat is in Beaulieu in SoF, but the original parts were shipped back to the UK to Manuflex (OEM supplier to Sunseeker) to have direct copies/replacements made. If I remember correctly, the total cost for both engines including shipping in both directions and fitting locally was just below £2.5K.

I have to admit I wasn't sure about the approach but with hindsight can't praise Manuflex or local VP guy enough for the helpful advice, service and general responsiveness. The whole process from dismantling to manufacture to reinstallation was completed at the end of the season within about three weeks and the new parts fit perfectly first time - we didn't even have to adjust any of the mountings or supports.

Sorry to hear about your problems and good luck resolving your issues.

Interesting. In fact if Volvo hadn't stood up for the new risers that they mandate, I would have just had the old horns repaired (my local fabricator has done this before on Volvo horns) and this latest problem would not have arisen.
 
Vega is certainly beginning to look fantastic. I dont know how you are going to solve the riser space issue......but I sincerely hope you do!

J

The winter has turned into a marathon for you. Extending the platform and new pods, new teak on extended platform, complete engine out/drives off fettle and re-install, antifoul removal prime and new antifoul, electronics replacement/upgrade, new cushion fabrics, hull polish and wax.....and not forgetting transport to/from SoF.......have I missed anything? I hesitate to raise this.........but is there a little part of you deep inside that wishes you had sold her last autumn? :rolleyes:

Anyway, much respect for all you have achieved and best wishes for resolution of the outstanding issues.

I think you got most of it, there's a few extra bits - cover refurb, forecabin mattress, ancam (if I get time, this is taking a bit of a back seat at the moment), audio upgrade, goalpost refurb ... and a new anchor that currently doesn't fit! Keeps you busy... :D
 
She looks fantastic, Jimmy. Sorry to read about the continuing riser issue. Is the clearance issue a few mm or more than that? Just wondering whether you could grind a few mm off the companionway steps without compromising the structural integrity of the moulding itself? What a bugger eh
 
She looks fantastic, Jimmy. Sorry to read about the continuing riser issue. Is the clearance issue a few mm or more than that? Just wondering whether you could grind a few mm off the companionway steps without compromising the structural integrity of the moulding itself? What a bugger eh

We don't yet know the exact dimension of the problem, I think it's somewhere between 10mm and 20mm. The guys at RK need to offer the naked riser (ie without thermal jacket) up to the turbo, and that'll give us the dimension.
 
Well you are making good progress and we know big projects always have there moments but hopefully the end is firmly in sight now. I'll be down tomorrow as mines going to RK for them to service the engines and check a compression problem so will see all the good work for myself.
 
looks excellent J.,

very curious on why the digital radar cable is thick!
The whole idea of digital radars is that you get away with the 20strand thumb size things and you're down to an Ethernet cable of some sort plus the 12V supply (on reasonably gauge cables)
At least that's from Garmin, but I'd have thought that Raymarine was using something similar, no?

when is she back on the way to SoF? I was reading that a/f shouldn't stay for more than a month or so out of the water (not sure if it applies on the one you used)

cheers

V.
 
looks excellent J.,

very curious on why the digital radar cable is thick!
The whole idea of digital radars is that you get away with the 20strand thumb size things and you're down to an Ethernet cable of some sort plus the 12V supply (on reasonably gauge cables)
At least that's from Garmin, but I'd have thought that Raymarine was using something similar, no?

when is she back on the way to SoF? I was reading that a/f shouldn't stay for more than a month or so out of the water (not sure if it applies on the one you used)

cheers

V.

Evening Vas

Yep, the Raymarine cabling logic for the digital radar doesn't make much sense - it's a 10m cable which is 14mm thick, and in the last 30cm of the cable splits into Raynet (= ethernet) and power. The other issue with the cable is that both ends are terminated so you don't even have a cut end to make mousing the cable any easier.

Heading back to France end May - but the antifoul won't get a chance to dry out too much, I'm hoping to launch her this Thursday, depending on RK Marine and whatever they come up with on the risers. The plan is to have a few weeks UK boating to shake down all the new systems, before the long trip down to Antibes.
 
Bad luck Jimmy. I'd expect a cut n shut weld job to take 70 mm out of the height will be an easy fix. You need to create a 50 gap IMHO - 25 for the jacket and 25 air gap. Approx. pita obviously but minor bump in road in grand scheme

Pods look fab. That is turning into a brilliant bathing platform re work

Did you thread the cable with plugs on end? I'd have cut it. I've never had a boat without a joint in the radar cable and a good joint works just fine. Garmin make a nice w'proof cat 5 butt connector unit. Also deals with excess length

Brilliant call on the anti foul removal. What colour m77 will you use? Pack a pot of dregs with the boat- it is so soft it will rub off in places during truck transport and you'll want to patch paint it in the slings 20 mins before launch in SofF
 
Bad luck Jimmy. I'd expect a cut n shut weld job to take 70 mm out of the height will be an easy fix. You need to create a 50 gap IMHO - 25 for the jacket and 25 air gap. Approx. pita obviously but minor bump in road in grand scheme

Yep, it's a bit frustrating, but that is all it is, there are obviously n solutions, it's just a question of RK deciding which one is most appropriate.

Pods look fab. That is turning into a brilliant bathing platform re work

Thanks; the grp work is very nearly complete, then it's on to the teak. However, I'm having a bit of trouble getting Wattsons to respond to email, and they are not answering the phone either.

Did you thread the cable with plugs on end? I'd have cut it. I've never had a boat without a joint in the radar cable and a good joint works just fine. Garmin make a nice w'proof cat 5 butt connector unit. Also deals with excess length

Yes - because Raymarine recommend against cutting it. In fairness, the two significant issues that caused a problem with the mousing of the cable were (1) the way the tv aerial cable turned upwards in the conduit to reach the tv aerial itself, this is a thickish cable in its own right, with a fairly big corner radius, so this caused a blockage (until I removed the aerial cable completely) and (2) the nav light cables also use the same conduit, and where the cables emerged from the conduit to the outside of the arch, the hole had been sealed with a huge dollop of mastic which was also blocking the conduit.

Brilliant call on the anti foul removal. What colour m77 will you use? Pack a pot of dregs with the boat- it is so soft it will rub off in places during truck transport and you'll want to patch paint it in the slings 20 mins before launch in SofF

M77 is all done, it is the dark blue. Looks v nice in fact. Thanks for the tip.
 
We don't yet know the exact dimension of the problem, I think it's somewhere between 10mm and 20mm. The guys at RK need to offer the naked riser (ie without thermal jacket) up to the turbo, and that'll give us the dimension.

Unfortunately not much has happened this week, so tomorrow's launch has been cancelled, disappointingly. Here's some pics of the old and new risers:

This is the old riser. The flange facing you clamps to the turbo, and the water injection point is the fitting on the right. The rubber cuff fits at the bottom to connect the riser to the exhaust horn; the fitting on the left is a drain for the internal spray head.

IMG-20150415-01044_zpsnu0mlngk.jpg


And this is the new riser. You can see that the design is changed in various ways - the riser is taller, the water injection point is different, and the output to the horn is in a slightly different position relative to the turbo flange.

IMG-20150415-01043_zps540uhdq7.jpg


Here are the two risers held flange-to-flange, to show the difference in height, which is about 45mm.

IMG-20150415-01045_zpsc5mbjbga.jpg


I'm told that we only need to find about 25mm to make the new riser fit. Here's another view of the new riser; taking height out of the vertical pipe on the right is obv v straightforward; but taking it out of the curved pipe on the left is much less so. I've got the riser here, so I'm off to see Bob the amazing fabricator tomorrow morning to see if he can do anything with it.

IMG-20150415-01048_zpsdxczdj9c.jpg
 
It looks as though the left hand side (last picture) has a straightish section just about where the finger with the signet ring is, before the radius starts to tighten. Maybe that's where the cut could be made without compromising the flow?

It is also a bit of a nuisance that the top has an external seam on the new item and not on the old.
 
I'm thinking it may be easier to get your excellent grp man to re design the companionway step rather than try to get that expensive riser altered and made to fit correctly?
 
Looking at the pictures it is hard to believe this is the same part.

Different height, different alignment between the inlet / outlet, different position tubes on the side.

Dont suppose they have new old stock somewhere?
 
I'm thinking it may be easier to get your excellent grp man to re design the companionway step rather than try to get that expensive riser altered and made to fit correctly?

Kev, nice lateral. But you would end with unequal riser heights on the stairway, which is an absolute b'stard to negotiate up and down: hence why verboten in B Regs for houses.
 
I'm thinking it may be easier to get your excellent grp man to re design the companionway step rather than try to get that expensive riser altered and made to fit correctly?

No, for lots of reasons that's a non-starter unfortunately. The solution is definitely a riser modification.
 
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