Back to the UK for a winter refit

James

Have you spoken with these guys yet?

http://symblast.com

Maybe worth looking into the methods and options available. These guys did our P40 through GBR.

Hi P

Yes I have - mentioned further up in the thread (do try and keep up at the back :D). £720+vat blast only; £2800+vat blast/sand/coppercoat. They don't want to do the epoxying that would be required if I went for blast only.
 
Can you also change anodes ,inc the BT ,polish the hull check / change flap hydraulics ? / check /paint / service anchor - check replce -service sea cocks as well - In a wetsuit while the boats still in the water ?

I do not see an annual haul out saving -

All my anodes easily last 2 years, and they're less than half gone even then. The hull takes far less of a battering from the sun than the topsides, so polishing every other year would be OK. How do you service sea cocks other than wiggling them from inside? Why do you want to paint your anchor? For reasons that don't matter here, I didn't lift last year and the only problem I had was fouling on the hull. With Coppercoat that wouldn't matter because I could feed my fetish and don the rubber suit.

I've just had a quote for annual lift out, and it's about 1000 for lift and store, and the same again for a/f. With Coppercoat I'd save 2,000 euro one year, 1,000 the next, then 2,000 etc. This'll be my 8th lift out with this boat, so I could have saved 12,000 euro in yard fees if I'd had it Coppercoated when I first bought it. Also, I don't enjoy the annual lift out as it means staying on the boat in the yard, so scrubbing the hull with scuba gear would be less hassle for me than having it lifted, plus I'd save a few quid on air fares.

It's horses for courses though, and if you have to, or want to, lift every year then it probably doesn't add up.
 
All my anodes easily last 2 years, and they're less than half gone even then.
Beware, you NEVER want to have your anodes anywhere near "half gone".
When you see them half gone externally, chances are that they are also well eroded inside, with their effectiveness reduced to close to nothing.

That aside, 2000 Eur for liftout+store+a/f+launch? Sounds like a great deal. Whereabout, out of curiosity?
 
Urgent alert! Just received two of above cams. Bleedin enormousness. The little garmin is a golf ball. These things are football. Will look hideous on pulpit. Ok in engine room

I thought the 90mm base diameter was ok. How little enormousness does the Garmin have?
 
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Hi, just catching up on thread, if your boat is still in RK marines yard , RK do not allow anyone other than owners to anti foul your boat. They insist that you use them to do it. I was getting someone I use to do mine which they would not allow. What I would say us they seemed to do a good job for a not bad price.
 
Hi, just catching up on thread, if your boat is still in RK marines yard , RK do not allow anyone other than owners to anti foul your boat. They insist that you use them to do it. I was getting someone I use to do mine which they would not allow. What I would say us they seemed to do a good job for a not bad price.

RK allow exceptions where the preparation falls out of their normal service eg removal of old antifoul first. So in my case they are ok with someone else doing the antifouling.
 

I think you need to be able to "twist" it in all directions.
In your case, it seems you are thinking of fitting it on the bow rails but if you decide to fit it like JFM's, I think it would need to be rotated (at an odd angle).
You may remember that I have similar dome cameras for my docking cameras.
This is where I bought them.
http://www.rfconcepts.co.uk/
They don't seem to stock the ones that I bought.
Mine are similar to this but with a standard composite output http://rfconcepts.co.uk/dome-camera-ir-armoured-70eh-36ir-sony-effio-silver-weatherproof-ip66.html
One failed when new but was replaced under warranty and there haven't been any failures since.

If I were buying again now, I would probably go for white ones.

Here's a pic with them fitted.
I'm pretty sure that the Raymarine ones that were the alternative at the time would be all rusty by now.
These look as good as the day they were fitted.

DSC_0893e_Small.jpg
 
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Had a wander across the road into RK's yard on a different mission but had a quick look at Vega to see if the 'Le Builders' were at home. Didn't see anyone around (they may have hid), but just wanted to say that the swim platform is looking as good in real life as it does on the photos.




While she is here in the UK Jimmy, perhaps you should think about a couple of rams and diverter valves from Pirtek and a quick tap into the outdrive trim circuit to make it Hi/Lo... :encouragement:
 
Had a wander across the road into RK's yard on a different mission but had a quick look at Vega to see if the 'Le Builders' were at home. Didn't see anyone around (they may have hid), but just wanted to say that the swim platform is looking as good in real life as it does on the photos.

Thanks for that - sorry to have missed you. Most of the action over the next few days is on the engines, in Brighton; the work on the starboard pod will start in the week next week and run for about a week.

While she is here in the UK Jimmy, perhaps you should think about a couple of rams and diverter valves from Pirtek and a quick tap into the outdrive trim circuit to make it Hi/Lo... :encouragement:

I did consider making it a hi-lo, and in terms of the platform construction itself, that would actually have been a lot easier. However, there's just no room on the transom for the (big) fittings needed for the mechanism, and I was concerned about adding that much weight (a good couple of hundred kilos) right at the back of the boat.
 
I think you need to be able to "twist" it in all directions.
In your case, it seems you are thinking of fitting it on the bow rails but if you decide to fit it like JFM's, I think it would need to be rotated (at an odd angle).
You may remember that I have similar dome cameras for my docking cameras.
This is where I bought them.
http://www.rfconcepts.co.uk/
They don't seem to stock the ones that I bought.
Mine are similar to this but with a standard composite output http://rfconcepts.co.uk/dome-camera-ir-armoured-70eh-36ir-sony-effio-silver-weatherproof-ip66.html
One failed when new but was replaced under warranty and there haven't been any failures since.

If I were buying again now, I would probably go for white ones.

Here's a pic with them fitted.
I'm pretty sure that the Raymarine ones that were the alternative at the time would be all rusty by now.
These look as good as the day they were fitted.

DSC_0893e_Small.jpg


Yep, I remember your cameras. In fact - was I there when this picture was taken?

I bought one of the cameras that I first linked to above (the one that jfm thinks are too big) and I'll probably buy one of the securicams as well. I'm sure the paint will immediately fall off (that's what happened to the camera I had on the P42 as well) but I'm not hugely bothered about that.
 
Back on cameras
When I was thinking about doing it this morning, I came across these.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIY-Wifi-...214?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1e943ab4c6

Pick up power from the windlass
Then using one of these to stabilise the power.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Amperor-1...095?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cbbd0e457
I've use these stabilisers in lots of places on the boat - docking cameras are one case.
BTW - you do need to protect these low cost cams from our unpredictable power supply.

Being WiFi, it would feed into my ships LAN and be viewable on any of my screens.
Others could use their tablets as displays.

Alternatively, there are devices like these.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Boscam-FP...164?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1e99fedf04
Recommended for quadcopters - does that touch a nerve???


Hi Mike,

I like the idea of the Wifi-link and your top item is cheap enough to give it a try. How important would the voltage stabiliser be if I wired it to the deck wash instead of the windlass?

Display connect to Raymarine poss? or would it be tablet or phone App?

Cheers,

RR.
 
Yep, I remember your cameras. In fact - was I there when this picture was taken?

I bought one of the cameras that I first linked to above (the one that jfm thinks are too big) and I'll probably buy one of the securicams as well. I'm sure the paint will immediately fall off (that's what happened to the camera I had on the P42 as well) but I'm not hugely bothered about that.


I am certain you would remember the boat next door throwing that spear
 
Hi Mike,

I like the idea of the Wifi-link and your top item is cheap enough to give it a try. How important would the voltage stabiliser be if I wired it to the deck wash instead of the windlass?

Display connect to Raymarine poss? or would it be tablet or phone App?

Cheers,

RR.

Many cameras use 5V so a step down converter/regulator is necessary anyway. There are plenty available on ebay (also waterproof) at low cost.
 
Hi Mike,

I like the idea of the Wifi-link and your top item is cheap enough to give it a try. How important would the voltage stabiliser be if I wired it to the deck wash instead of the windlass?

Display connect to Raymarine poss? or would it be tablet or phone App?

Cheers,

RR.

I have blown kit up in the past.
The early dome cameras specifically specified a stabilised power supply.
At that end of the boat there are some big motors capable of generating some big spikes.
I guess that voltage stabilisers probably aren't good enough for this kind job but I've use this one all over the boat.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Amperor-1...57&clk_rvr_id=794881955627&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true
or from here
http://www.amperordirect.co.uk/prod_adp_90dc-125525.asp

I cut the cigarette lighter plug off - fit fuses etc and use them for anything sensitive - never had a problem to the kit they supply.
LEDs are particularly vulnerable I believe.

Mike
 
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