Back to the UK for a winter refit
- Thread starter jimmy_the_builder
- Start date
wakeup
Well-Known Member
You are right, I cannot be serious 
If you don't know what a BT is by now then I am not going to tell you (Ok it is clearly dyslexic welsh for Bathing Platform)
If you don't know what a BT is by now then I am not going to tell you
(Ok it is clearly dyslexic welsh for Bathing Platform)
benjenbav
Well-Known Member
But James has wisely bought a set of middle and end posts which really sets his trailer apart from the herd.
In fact, I'd wager a virtual pint that somewhere he has a set of sides ready to go.
jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
The sides are on the trailer, you can see them strapped on to the bed just by the fwd engine.
RogerRat
Well-Known Member
Work has progressed well on the bathing platform over the Christmas period - Paul the GRP man sent me these pics showing his work so far.
Glassing it in:
Paul's made terrific progress so far. There's still quite a bit to do on this main section, but if it goes to plan, we hope to dry-fit it to the boat in a couple of weeks time.
Hi Jimmy,
This platform mod is really coming along now. Glassed up, it's really looking good.
The angle cuts to separate the front from rear are really clever too. The insert looks a little smaller than expected. As there's no scale, have you stayed with the original plan of a 500mm extension?
RR
volvopaul
Well-Known Member
Anyway, back on topic: In the light of the quotes that I had been given for the various refurb tasks on the engines, I decided that I needed to be more closely involved in the work, so I can see where the money is being spent. It follows therefore that I need to carry out the refurb work a bit closer to home, so today I went along to Bursledon today and collected the engines and drives:
I dropped them off at Brighton Marina this afternoon; work starts next week.
Was there no negotiation with the present engineering company on cost to repair?
jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
You definitely do not need to go to specsavers: for complicated reasons the extension was reduced to 495mm. Good spot RR!
jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
Nope. In fairness there was a bit more to the decision than just cost.
volvopaul
Well-Known Member
Hmmm ok.
vas
Well-Known Member
You definitely do not need to go to specsavers: for complicated reasons the extension was reduced to 495mm. Good spot RR!
5mm is way too much!
dying to know why you made such a serious compromise.
V.
ps. excellent work, looking fwrd to more installments
RogerRat
Well-Known Member
You definitely do not need to go to specsavers: for complicated reasons the extension was reduced to 495mm. Good spot RR!
Eyes not that good at all, (maybe next month (but that's another story)) which is why I asked. The rebuild looks about 300mm to me so, 495mm is pretty much to plan. Looks great tho, really looking forward to seeing final stages. :encouragement:
RR
jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
Just following on from this discussion a few days ago, I was thinking about the fixing of the support struts at the transom. The existing centre strut is through-bolted at the platform end, and fixed with self-tappers at the transom. I'm presuming that this arrangement is because the platform is cored, but the transom is not (and is pretty thick). In fact we could only get one of the original transom screws out; the other two sheared off.
Is it the opinion of the panel that self-tappers would be adequate for the transom fixing of the new struts? There's no evidence of any reinforcement in the location of the existing transom fixing.
jfm
Well-Known Member
yep fat self tappers would be fine IMHO and avoid you piercing right through. I'd make sure the foot of the diagonal struts has decent area, not postage stamp size, then rough both surfaces and 5200 or 292 it
Greg2
Well-Known Member
Our last boat (Targa 35) had self-tappers to secure the bathing platform support struts to the transom. A couple came loose over time but otherwise seemed to work fine. As already mentioned essential to make sure that they are shorter than the thickness of the transom. A friend had a long standing issue with water ingress on his sports cruiser that was eventually traced to a support strut screw going all the way through the transom.
jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
Thanks both. I have today bought a goniometer (!) to help with the specification of the struts. Foot will probably be 60mm dia circle, same as OE.
jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
Engines have now been stripped of ancilliaries:
Port outboard side is pretty manky:
Starboard not as bad:
As is pretty typical for D6's, the aftercooler end caps leak; unfortunately, they leak straight on to the starter motors. This is surface corrosion, so should clean up ok - but still pretty unsightly. I'm going to fabricate a simple shield for these so that the inevitable future leaks from the aftercooler end caps won't be quite so destructive.
This is the underside of the engine mount. The left-hand mount is the best of them (starboard outboard: nowhere near a raw water filter assembly...) and the right-hand one is the worst. Even the bad one isn't actually that bad - this is just surface corrosion - so we're going to try shot-blasting them and see how they come up:
I delivered the engine mounts, sundry bracketry and the ecu covers to the shot-blasting place this afternoon; should have it all back in a few days time.
Port outboard side is pretty manky:
Starboard not as bad:
As is pretty typical for D6's, the aftercooler end caps leak; unfortunately, they leak straight on to the starter motors. This is surface corrosion, so should clean up ok - but still pretty unsightly. I'm going to fabricate a simple shield for these so that the inevitable future leaks from the aftercooler end caps won't be quite so destructive.
This is the underside of the engine mount. The left-hand mount is the best of them (starboard outboard: nowhere near a raw water filter assembly...) and the right-hand one is the worst. Even the bad one isn't actually that bad - this is just surface corrosion - so we're going to try shot-blasting them and see how they come up:
I delivered the engine mounts, sundry bracketry and the ecu covers to the shot-blasting place this afternoon; should have it all back in a few days time.
BartW
Well-Known Member
good going Jimmy,,
this corrosion is no real functional nor reliability problem, but it looks indeed very bad, almost worse then my 22yo lumps
good idea about the cover plate over the starter motor, have todo something similar in my Karnic
shot blasting the mounts will be OK, but a good resistant paint, that will be the challenge ?
these engine mounts appear to be absolutely HUGE size !
..............in relation to your feet on the bottom of the pic
this corrosion is no real functional nor reliability problem, but it looks indeed very bad, almost worse then my 22yo lumps
good idea about the cover plate over the starter motor, have todo something similar in my Karnic
shot blasting the mounts will be OK, but a good resistant paint, that will be the challenge ?
these engine mounts appear to be absolutely HUGE size !
..............in relation to your feet on the bottom of the pic
jrudge
Well-Known Member
I am surprised at the rust - mine - which was older than yours - did not ( I think!) look like this. Joys of salt water.
Just a thought ... if you are having stuff shot blasted you could get them either chromed or powder coated. Chrome is a bit of bling, but either one would probably be more resistant to corrosion than paint.
Just a thought ... if you are having stuff shot blasted you could get them either chromed or powder coated. Chrome is a bit of bling, but either one would probably be more resistant to corrosion than paint.
jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
good going Jimmy,,
this corrosion is no real functional nor reliability problem, but it looks indeed very bad, almost worse then my 22yo lumps
good idea about the cover plate over the starter motor, have todo something similar in my Karnic
shot blasting the mounts will be OK, but a good resistant paint, that will be the challenge ?
these engine mounts appear to be absolutely HUGE size !
..............in relation to your feet on the bottom of the pic
I'm pretty sure that the corrosion has been caused by incorrectly-fitted mk 1 raw water filter caps, which when wrongly fitted produces a high-pressure stream of salt water when the engine is at cruise rpm. I'm equally sure this hasn't happened in my ownership because one of the first things I did was have the mk 2 cap assembly fitted (which ironically has corroded, a bit, and went to the shot blasters today...). But if you look at the corrosion patterns in the context of the installation, you can see that it is pretty obviously related to the raw water filters.
Either way - we are where we are, I have a corrosion issue, and this is my attempt to tackle it. The engine mounts will be shot blasted, etch-primed and two-pack painted. The ally components (ecu cover etc) will be shot blasted and wet sprayed with suitable primers (ally that has suffered salt water corrosion doesn't react well to powder coating). The steel components will be shot blasted and powder coated, again with a three part system for marine applications.
jfm
Well-Known Member
Jimmy are you going to leave the main stuff in Volvo green? Howsabout white castings, with black on some components eg rocker cover and starter motor, then silvery bits here and there like jubilee clips obviously?
Perhaps an awful conflict between OCD-OEM DNA on the one hand, and OCD-perfection DNA on the other
Ford used to have an Engine Beautification Department, iirc and btw
Perhaps an awful conflict between OCD-OEM DNA on the one hand, and OCD-perfection DNA on the other
Ford used to have an Engine Beautification Department, iirc and btw
