Back to the UK for a winter refit
- Thread starter jimmy_the_builder
- Start date
jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
Yep. This is what it currently looks like:
Roughly modelled in sketchup, the main component looks like this:
The plan is basically to cut'n'shut it, adding 500mm:
The two side pods need to be similarly extended, I don't have drawings for those.
This is all very theoretical at the moment tho - haven't yet appointed a contractor to carry out the work, a couple of people have looked at it and I'm waiting for prices.
volvopaul
Well-Known Member
Whichever way you leave the helm one ram will have it's rod exposed, steering central part of both ram rods exposed. No way both ram rods can be inside the cylinder at the same time.
jrudge
Well-Known Member
If you are lengthening the bathing platform I would put on a reversing camera so you don't thump it.
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?351108-Reversing-Camera-Targa-40&highlight=
I also wondered if car reversing sensors would work -- beep beep beep then beeeeeeeeeeeeeep and you know you have just hit!
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?351108-Reversing-Camera-Targa-40&highlight=
I also wondered if car reversing sensors would work -- beep beep beep then beeeeeeeeeeeeeep and you know you have just hit!
benjenbav
Well-Known Member
Yep. This is what it currently looks like:
Roughly modelled in sketchup, the main component looks like this:
The plan is basically to cut'n'shut it, adding 500mm:
The two side pods need to be similarly extended, I don't have drawings for those.
This is all very theoretical at the moment tho - haven't yet appointed a contractor to carry out the work, a couple of people have looked at it and I'm waiting for prices.
Looks good. When you say the side pods do you mean the upright parts or will you wrap the horizontal section around the transom very much a la mode for Fairline? As per brochure but most noticeably: http://www.fairline.com/en/boats/squadron/78-custom
jfm
Well-Known Member
That bathing platform job will look very pukka OCD OEM CDO Jimmy, if you do it like that with extended side pods. Will be very nice to keep the bathing ladder intact. Wattsons should be able to make the teak using their original pattern, with the added 500mm. When looking for a GRP contractor, you might want to consider Allen @EBY. His team did the cuts n shuts on my transom door, upstairs dash and flybr seating
jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
The upright parts are part of the main topsides moulding, and modding those would be v tricky. Side pods:
The plan is to effectively cut'n'shut these as well, only this time we will make a mould and then make a completely new pod. The cut line is a vertical line drawn just aft of where the rubbing strake intersects with the top of the pod.
D
Deleted User YDKXO
Guest
You didn't ride all the way to Milan did you?Should've come with me to Milan. Maybe next year?
benjenbav
Well-Known Member
Ah, gotcha. I think it'll be a great look with the extension beyond the uprights.
jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
Yep - if my local (Hamble) quotes come in too expensive, then the contingency is to remove the platform myself (I think this very doable) and transport it to someone like Allen at EBY (or should that be BCU?).
While I've got you - can you comment on something completely different please? Ref my post #75 - what's a 'good' CRI number? 80? 85? 90?
jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
I would've if it had been in the summer, but no, not in November. Queasyjet on this occasion.
D
Deleted User YDKXO
Guest
Seems a bit drastic just to find a place to put a chair
How is it going to affect the tender launch/retrieval process?
jimmy_the_builder
Well-Known Member
Seems a bit drastic just to find a place to put a chair
That's an easy one - there's a roller rail that slots in at the back of the garage, with a locator pin at the stern edge of the bathing platform. It'll just need to be made 500mm longer. V straightforward; an hours work for a fabricator.
jfm
Well-Known Member
OK. Yes BCU haha! I need to convert!
85 is good, 90 is very good. There isn't anything I've seen beyond high 80s currently, and 85 is generally the best that is easily available, and is tangibly better than 75-80. Anything say 85-88 is going to look/feel pretty good. Do not imho fall into the trap of going for too-warm white. It's personal choice of course but we are a bit conditioned from years of incandescent bulbs. I would say get 3000k inside not 2700, and 4000 exterior. My boat is all 3000/4000 as per spec, though of course manufacturers' tolerances vary a bit and it is hard work getting perfect match if you are OCB
Anyway if you want I can lend (post in jiffy bag) you some 3000K/88% to try/experiment with, 70mm holes so might not fit but will make for an experiment. There are so many now available you are sure to find one that fits your existing holes
If you get those retrofit little circuit boards with 7 LEDs on them or whatever, they will look rubbish I'm afraid. Those LEDs are just not made for CRI. Getting high CRI means adding a more exotic cocktail of metals, and costs money
Remember the dimming circuitry will impose a need for surgery on your boat to get at the wiring. With Cantalupi you have a v small dimmer unit which needs 6 wires: DC supply in, DC out to lights, and a pair of terminals that need to be joined by a non latching momentary switch. The momentary switch does on/off plus cycles thru the dimmer range (and "remembers"). Of course you can fit as many parallel switches to this pair of terminals as you want, if you want to switch the same lights from 2,3,4 locations, etc.
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MapisM
Well-Known Member
I'd rather try to use someone who can easily access the boat, if you want to extend also the pods, because I think that's the part which might require a bit of a "trial and error" approach...
Otoh, I would consider leaving the side pods as they are, and just make the sides of the extended part round and smooth.
In fact, the width difference is neither here nor there in terms of usability, while the cost involved with the pods extension is probably not trivial.
I agree with jfm that the platform would look more OEM-ish with the extended pod, though.
D
Deleted User YDKXO
Guest
Ah OK didn't realise that. On my old T48 you had to drag the tender across the bathing platform and a deeper platform would have made that even more difficult than it was
RogerRat
Well-Known Member
On mine, both RAMS were on the Starboard side so they could be compressed with the helm to starboard.
Lucky eh? :encouragement:
RR
volvopaul
Well-Known Member
No way, a pair of drives has a ram on the outside of each drive, a single drive has one on either side. There is no mounting point for two Rams on the drive or the transom shield. The later ones with electronic steering have two Rams per drive but no tie bar between them. I guess were talking dph drive and D6 engines RR?
sailorman
Well-Known Member
I would be having a word with the owners of those tool boxs if that was my teakYep. This is what it currently looks like:
Roughly modelled in sketchup, the main component looks like this:
The plan is basically to cut'n'shut it, adding 500mm:
The two side pods need to be similarly extended, I don't have drawings for those.
This is all very theoretical at the moment tho - haven't yet appointed a contractor to carry out the work, a couple of people have looked at it and I'm waiting for prices.
RogerRat
Well-Known Member
:ambivalence: Sorry Paul, memory fell over there for a mo. Of course you're right, the rams are on different sides, so no benefit, scratch that Jimmy. It was because I had to replace the rudder position sender cable twice in the same season that I moored with the rams hard to starboard. With the helm to starboard less **** stuck to the inner cable causing less friction. Apols guys. :ambivalence:RR
