Autopilot intermittent power loss.

[steve yates]

My simrad st2000 keeps losing power, if I wiggle the cable the power comes back if i let the cable lie a certain way.
I’ll check the connections where its wired into the plug, but I’m wondering if it might be a break in the cable, and if i chop it and rewire it the issue will be solved. There is a bit much cable anyway. Anyone had a similar issue and how was it fixed?

 

[Refueler]

I know I am not only one who has had similar ... my AH800 and AH1000 went down with similar at similar time !!

Basically the two pin 'Signal lamp' plug and socket they used was cr**. I believe the ST series has similar but 3 pins ? Mine - you could wiggle the cable and hear the BEEP ... BEEP as it connected ... disconnected ... connected etc.

This was my cure and may be of interest .....
First I fitted a new cockpit socket. Then chose one units plug and with Dremel - cut slots in the pins so I could widen the pins for tighter fit into socket. Then I cut that plug off with short length of cable and fitted an inline weather resistant XT60 connector ... the unit then had XT60 mate fitted to its cable. The other unit had its plug removed and similar XT60 mate fitted.
This meant that I had one short adaptor lead that plugs into a NEW 2 pin socket in the cockpit and then to either unit. If the cockpit socket gave trouble as the old - I could power either of the units using a separate battery with XT60 plug ....

I have modified many items with the XT60's .... incl Hand Held old Icom VHF ..... Hand Held eTrex GPS ..... even my Chart Plotters have XT60 inline to allow alternative power as examples.

 

[Daverw]

Could be a break in the cable or corrosion of the copper wire especially if not tinned. I have a cable that appeared good at either end but when outer was pulled off the copper had basically disappeared about a metre in

 

[alan_d]

Common things occur commonly. Connector problems much commoner than broken cables, so check them first.

 

[TSB240]

I would put good money on either a corroded pin in your plug or socket connector making a poor contact.. Usual symptom is it goes off and into standby as soon as you press auto as it asks for more juice than the bad connection allows.

I have had a broken cable on the motor.
But this is unlikely to be your problem.

If it is a break in the cable it is easy to test.

Just apply 12 v direct to the brown(+) and blue(0v) wires after you have gained access to the pins in the plug.

I eventually found that using the higher current rated and more reliable 2 pin Bulgin connectors was best and the inserts fit the Raymarine bulkhead or cable mounts. Available from RS or Farnell.

I never used either seatalk or nmea for steering to a way point so the green and yellow cables don't need connections. If you do use either then the next best thing is the three pin insert. This is also higher rated than the 5 pin as supplied by Raymarine.

 

[Refueler]

My cockpit locker has a semi-circular small cut-out aft end and I suspect that originally the AP or 240V mains cable went in there. My bet is the AP as the cut-out is small. Looks like 'Brian' previous owner moved the cr** connector to external ....

I hate those connectors ..... one day I will sort with a better one .... but will still keep the capability to plug in a stand-off battery

 

[alahol2]

Had a similar problem that proved to be the the old Dri-plug. Replaced with these from 12V Planet no longer a problem. (3 pin also available).

 

[steve yates]

Was completely unuseable today, and now I suspect the issue is connection at the plug, as by pressing in the cable there it came on briefly but letting it go lost the signal. Wil open up the connector plug and if everything looks ok, replace the entire plug with alahols suggestion above.
Thanks folks.