Autohelm on a canoe stern

stacer

New Member
Joined
7 Oct 2022
Messages
18
Visit site
I have recently bought a boat with a canoe stern which will pose difficulties in fitting my ageing Autohelm 1000. Most solutions seem to involve the use of a bracket to position the unit outboard and obtain the required distance to the tiller. I have seen a post on here from a member “Behome” which indicated that the unit was positioned inboard and the tiller pin on a bracket which positioned it to the port side of the tiller. I would be very interested in seeing this system as in a very small boat like mine, space is at a premium and I am anxious to avoid unnecessary outboard fittings. Any help or information would be much appreciated.
 
Does your AH1000 have any extension rod sections added to the standard length rod ?

I assume you mean that the tiller pin has been mounted on a bracket sticking out to opposite side of tiller from AH1000 .... to give it the stroke length ? It works but would think it a bit awkward and liable to catch things when not in use ?
 
That’s what I assume from the post I read, but without seeing it, it’s difficult to be sure. In my case, it would be situated over a small afterdeck and wouldn’t really be a hindrance.
 
Similar problem on a canoe sterned Hilliard. I mounted the autohelm under the side deck with flexible wire running over sheaves to link it to the tiller. Very complicated - but it did work! Kept the autohelm dry, too.
 
Similar problem on a canoe sterned Hilliard. I mounted the autohelm under the side deck with flexible wire running over sheaves to link it to the tiller. Very complicated - but it did work! Kept the autohelm dry, too.
Unfortunately, I don’t have a side deck so this will have to mounted topsides but I think I can see the potential for a tiller bracket taking the pin out to the port side of the tiller.
 
Does your AH1000 have any extension rod sections added to the standard length rod ?

I assume you mean that the tiller pin has been mounted on a bracket sticking out to opposite side of tiller from AH1000 .... to give it the stroke length ? It works but would think it a bit awkward and liable to catch things when not in use ?
That’s what I assume from the post I read, but without seeing it, it’s difficult to be sure. In my case, it would be situated over a small afterdeck and wouldn’t really be a hindrance.
 
I know Autohelm used to sell various brackets to suit various setups .....

I would think two strips of ally ... one straight and mounted to tiller top,,, other bent to create a 'z' shape to then mount to underside of tiller. The junction of the two having the 'pin' mounted .... ??
 
Put autohelm on a lump of timber with a new pivot pin half way up it. Mount the new pin into the autohelm bracket in the normal way. Half of the autohelm is then outboard negating the need for a permanent outboard bracket.
 
Put autohelm on a lump of timber with a new pivot pin half way up it. Mount the new pin into the autohelm bracket in the normal way. Half of the autohelm is then outboard negating the need for a permanent outboard bracket.
I think I can visualise this but I need to let it sink in a bit, at 71, my brain isn’t quite as quick as it used to be??
 
As I said earlier .... two strips of ally can do it ...... or pay 'marine' price ?

I would think that one aspect is that with creating a bracket yourself - it will be correct length instead of a compromise ....
Sounds like a good plan, another thought is to manufacture from Carbon Fibre and Epoxy, my brother made all the fittings (gooseneck, gaff saddle etc) from this for my last boat. Very light and extremely strong, with the added bonus that you get exactly what you want ?
 
Set your AH to it's middle position, then put the non actuator end just inside the gunnel (don't fancy it projecting over the side, might get wet..) swing it so the end of the rod is about the recommended distance from the rudder pivot axis and at right angles to the line from the end of the rod to the axis (imagine your tiller in that position) then make up the tiller bracket to to mount it at that position.
 
Set your AH to it's middle position, then put the non actuator end just inside the gunnel (don't fancy it projecting over the side, might get wet..) swing it so the end of the rod is about the recommended distance from the rudder pivot axis and at right angles to the line from the end of the rod to the axis (imagine your tiller in that position) then make up the tiller bracket to to mount it at that position.

Just trying to figure out why you posted that ... I am pretty sure the guy knows how to mount the AH .... his problem is the gunwhale is too close to the tiller being a canoe stern. So he either has to have the AH extending outside the gunhwale OR as already discussing - mounting a bracket to the tiller at 90deg's that then accepts AH length ... basically the AH rod passes over top of tiller and meets pin on a extension bracket ... or under whichever suited. One thing to watch though is that tiller does not come up against end of AH unit due to shorter distance.
 

Attachments

  • over distance AH.jpg
    over distance AH.jpg
    10.1 KB · Views: 2
I understood the problem, but thought the AH might fit better if at an angle to the tiller and crossing under it to the bracket. This puts the 'heal' of the unit further forward, where there is more beam. It still needs to be at right angles to the line from the rudder stock to the pin, so a bit of jiggling to get right.
An alternative would be a mounting parallel to the tiller with a short arm off the stock. Bit like the push/pull arrangements on some small double enders with mizzens.
It would help if we knew which boat it was.
 
I have mine mounted on a quick (a bolt and a wing nut) removable wooden arm that clamps over the stern cleats to prevent side movement. I'll post a pic when I'm back on the boat on Monday.
 
I understood the problem, but thought the AH might fit better if at an angle to the tiller and crossing under it to the bracket. This puts the 'heal' of the unit further forward, where there is more beam. It still needs to be at right angles to the line from the rudder stock to the pin, so a bit of jiggling to get right.
An alternative would be a mounting parallel to the tiller with a short arm off the stock. Bit like the push/pull arrangements on some small double enders with mizzens.
It would help if we knew which boat it was.


Think the extension bracket is far simpler .... and if I remember correctly AH .. later Raymarine provided something to do this.

If you are going to fabricate an extra piece to rudder stock - to move AH forward ... surely that's more work than a simple alloy bracket ??
 
Top