Bigplumbs
Well-Known Member
That prop look ok
it is an expensive approach though: save the ss prop by disolving the whole leg...That prop look ok
Even with all that on the boat plus 2 hull anodes to size of house brick we lost almost all anodes and props started to show signs of going pink.Not good.anodes, galvanic isolator ( minimum) or if money available galvanic transformer.
You need to protect from the other boats in the marina as well
Fitting new anodes, bonding bar, earth and bonding cable Galvanic isolater next week
If a boat is NOT connected to shore power is it negligibly effected by problems caused by other boats nearby in practice? In theory it should not care about the potential of the surrounding water.
They look great !...happy boatingAll Aluminium anodes present and correct on the SC35, in preparation for a Monday Launch.
View attachment 156813
View attachment 156814
I really, really do recommend the VP active corrosion protection units. One per outdrive. They detect the electrical potential and apply a corrective voltage. We fitted to our boats from 2001 until 2018 ( when the marina was destroyed). Anodes lasted a long time, no corrosion issues at all with the outdrives.They look great !...happy boating....hopefully I am on the water Monday as well
Should have left them tilted above the water . Might have got a few more years.
Nothing is 100% for all occasions, but if no protection at all just think what yours would have been like and the costs involved.Even with all that on the boat plus 2 hull anodes to size of house brick we lost almost all anodes and props started to show signs of going pink.Not good.
It had only been in the water from end May and lifted mid September to have copper coating reapplied.
A bit lucky.
My protection method seems to work okView attachment 156912

I was told by an outboard mechanic and main dealer that it’s best to keep them in the water..aesthetically they will look worse but the water followed by air causes the internals to degrade fasterMy protection method seems to work okView attachment 156912
I was told by an outboard mechanic and main dealer that it’s best to keep them in the water..aesthetically they will look worse but the water followed by air causes the internals to degrade faster
I used to flush them with fresh water while it stayed in the seaAnd they get to sell you new outboards when the ones left in the water have dissolved?
I would have thought a quick flush with fresh water followed by lifting up would work well.
No responses; no-one seems to want to learn from real practical experience ! I don't really care if people want to ignore my suggestion based on years of experience in this matter. More the fool them. I shall not lose any sleep about it.I really, really do recommend the VP active corrosion protection units. One per outdrive. They detect the electrical potential and apply a corrective voltage. We fitted to our boats from 2001 until 2018 ( when the marina was destroyed). Anodes lasted a long time, no corrosion issues at all with the outdrives.
How does that work on a trailer roundabout thah is kept at home?I was told by an outboard mechanic and main dealer that it’s best to keep them in the water..aesthetically they will look worse but the water followed by air causes the internals to degrade faster
I don’t have a VolvoNo responses; no-one seems to want to learn from real practical experience ! I don't really care if people want to ignore my suggestion based on years of experience in this matter. More the fool them. I shall not lose any sleep about it.