Whenever I anchor or even spend the night on someone else's mooring (I once dragged a mooring). I also leave the depth on with the shallow alarm set. Electronic gear uses very little current.
Sorry, no, but I can recommend a night scope - even on a pitch black night you can pop your head up & check the surroundings (you know, when the rigging hums that bit louder, chain creaks a bit more that sort of thing). Wonderfully reasurring sometimes !
Power is insignificant, and I usually leave anchor watch set.
But I do wonder what my Garmin 128 is actually measuring: what position does it monitor as the 'anchor position' ? I would prefer to be able to set a guard-zone OUTSIDE of a given position, but afaik this is not available.
The GPS128 measures movement from the point you were at when you switched the alarm on. I find .05 NM is usually OK in tidal waters, .03 in non-tidal. You will usually set the alarm once the anchor is dug in. After the turn of the tide you will be 2 x scope away from there.
If you want to set a guard zone, use the Arrival alarm setting - it will tell you when you get close to a waypoint.
That's how I would expect it to work. However, if you leave the alarm ON all the time, it still seems to work, so must reset/set itself after the boat has been static for a certain length of time. Thus, even though I havn't deliberately done anything, the anchor alarm will sound once I get under way again. It is the criteria for this 'auto-setting' functionality that puzzle me.
We live by them out here, power consumption shouldn't be an issue if your house batteries are bascially sound. Agree that experimenting with sensitivity is useful, praps 0.1 too tight, 0.2 more workable.
We have one for the first time this season on our newly fitted Garmin 1289. We love it and it certainly helps to sleep.
We leave it on 0.2nm (01.nm too sensitive) and usually do it once anchor in and set. This means that it goes off when we swing but we like that as it gets us to check on the situation at that time. (I did spend ages working out how many meters in a nautical mile the first time ...)
It doesn't seem to have had any impact on power at all but we have over 500leisure amphours, three solar panels and a wind genny - at this time of year we wake up with more charge than we had when went to bed!
Here on E coast, leave the depth sounder on as well often.
I always use the GPS anchor watch except for brief stays. However, I seem to use a much tighter setting for the swing radius than what most others are saying yet we only rarely get false alerts. We also adjust the swing setting according to the depth anchored in rather than just use the same all the time as some are also saying.
Usually I just take the length of chain veered plus 40m to allow for the boat length (12, in our own boat's case) and GPS error, plus some according to how accurately I set the alarm over the anchor position. Pythagoras causes a bit extra over estimate. Then I divide it by 20 to get 0.01's of a nautical mile for the swing setting (I know there are 18.52 but 20 is easier to work with in simple cats' heads).
For example, drop anchor in 20m water (HW), 3x scope, so 60 m chain out. Add 40 gives 100m. Hit anchor watch pretty much over anchor position so nothing to allow for uncertainty so divide 100 by 20 gives 5 - that is the swing setting for the anchor watch in 0.01's nm so set it at 0.05 nm.
There is no extra work in doing the calculation as one should be doing so in any event, whether alarm set or not, to make sure one is clear of dangers when swinging.
Will set it even closer if dangers very close (and we will also back up to them against the anchor to check that we don't hit them in the night if swing on the scope).