Anyone had issues with Simrad HS80A GPS compass?

[Karlsenkystfiske]

Mine started acting up the other day. it would go missing two times a minute at its worst. Making the AP70 exit auto mode and lose all its information. It seems to happen only when I am drifting. Right now I am jigging for cod and therefore drift and run at low speeds a lot of the time.
I have no issues when I hold god speed or lay moored up.

Been talking to two Simrad installators / salesmen on the phone, and they say it is a shitty compass with a strange software that is prone to errors. An accelerometer could be faulty, causing it to crash when there is a lot of movement.
I have not had a single problem with it earlier. Apparently there is a long delivery time for a replacement unit so I will just have to live with it. Have anyone of you had troubles with this particular model?

 

[jwfrary]

I had an issue with an HS60 dropping out, turned out to be water in the unit.

We replaced it with a hemisphere v200n which is what simrad use just rebranded. The UK supplier sandert is based on the isle of man and are very helpful.

You do need to get them to turn on all the PGNs from factory though as the default is a couple of them disabled.

Just as a check have you checked the T for the drop cable isn't faulty I have had that before and also the voltage on the network is good, they can get a bit teach if the voltage is low as the Signal to noise drops as the voltage in the antenna itself drops and then you loose heading and all sorts!

 

[Karlsenkystfiske]

Godamn! can T`s just start malfunctioning out of the blue? That is kind of scary. Guess I would need an open ended plug to measure resistance in it? Or network voltage?
Talked to an installator who would bring on board a new pronav. He say they are made by same company in Canada, but a lot cheaper then Simrad brand. He would take the HS80A with it and do some testing with it when he finds the time.

 

[KompetentKrew]

Godamn! can T`s just start malfunctioning out of the blue? That is kind of scary. Guess I would need an open ended plug to measure resistance in it? Or network voltage?

I'm dubious of this diagnosis, but it costs you nothing to check the T-connector and prove or eliminate it as the cause.

If you want to test a T-connector on an NMEA 2000 network, you just nick a known-working one from elsewhere on the network. However you must ensure the NMEA network always still has 12v supply and a complete backbone with a terminator at each end, as shown in this pic (and discussed in this previous thread or on this page).

Therefore, to remove a T-connector that you know is good, you can:

1. Undo the backbone to either side of it, remove the T, and join the backbone together so that whatever is on that drop-cable is removed from the network, or
2. Take the terminator from the end of the network, and move it to shorten the backbone and terminate it at an earlier T. Now only the relevant devices are connected to the remaining mini backbone, and you can test these devices in isolation. Make sure you don't remove the 12v supply from the working network.

 

[Karlsenkystfiske]

I found the error!
Apparently the cable connecting the compass was not entirely screwed on. More like 60%. So from time to time the pins would lose signal. The cable was actualy fixed in place a little too short, so it has probably been like that since it was installed 13 years ago. As a result the nut on the compass side was badly damaged from corrosion. Not much thread left. Cleaned it the best I could, but not enough holding power to make a secure connection. Solution for now is a whole lot of cable ties and a big blob of grease to keep any more moisture out. Guess I will need a new adapter box. If that is not available, I will have to change the compass :/

 

[jwfrary]

Glad you found the issue!

The connector shouldn't be too had to change if you have any soldering skills. If not a competent electrician shouldn't have a problem with it.

The M8 nmea 2000 connectors are quite easily availible

 

[Karlsenkystfiske]

Pretty sure they are not meant to be serviced or changed. Box seems solid. Think solution will be to remove nut, and then use epoxy on a short cable. Kind of extend the whole thing