aldeburgh
Well-Known Member
Has anybody got a name of an antifoul that dries quick and can be applied between tides
Antifouling between tides
- Thread starter aldeburgh
- Start date
VicMallows
Well-Known Member
All of the ones I've tried (International;Blakes;XM;FLAG etc) have been fine between tides. The important thing is to clean and prepare the hull prior so as to give you the maximum time. You also need to preferably choose a reasonably warm day with a gentle drying breeze. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif .... though have got away with it in far less than ideal. Recommend rinsing with fresh water first...a garden sprayer works well if no mains supply.
Vic
Vic
Powersalt
Well-Known Member
you dont use any special anti foul, but just prepare well and wash off with fresh water before painting. I often would prepare 1 tide and then just paint the second. That gives it a good chance to be applied as the tide ebbs and then plenty of time to dry well before the tide returns.
fireball
Well-Known Member
Vic - given your (and our) location - we'd be interested to know what AF you use when AFing between tides .... and if it is any good ... we recon we've got about 5hrs between the bottom of our keel drying then getting wet again - but 4'6" up to the hull gives us another hour or so for the rest of the hull .. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
sailorman
Well-Known Member
Any solvent based A/F
the water based might just wash-off /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
the water based might just wash-off /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
alienzdive
Well-Known Member
There are no antifouls available for application between tides. Antifoul needs a minimum of 24 hours air curing time. It will not have time to cure properly between tides. Just because some people do it does not make it correct.
Ring the manufacturer or check the product literature and guides.
You will not get the antifoul to work properly if done between tides.
Ring the manufacturer or check the product literature and guides.
You will not get the antifoul to work properly if done between tides.
sailorman
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
There are no antifouls available for application between tides. Antifoul needs a minimum of 24 hours air curing time. It will not have time to cure properly between tides. Just because some people do it does not make it correct.
Ring the manufacturer or check the product literature and guides.
You will not get the antifoul to work properly if done between tides.
[/ QUOTE ]
well thats a funny thing /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
we do this on a regular basis on the East Coast with no probs @ all, what the hell does our Harbour Master know hes bin doin it for 65 yrs /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
There are no antifouls available for application between tides. Antifoul needs a minimum of 24 hours air curing time. It will not have time to cure properly between tides. Just because some people do it does not make it correct.
Ring the manufacturer or check the product literature and guides.
You will not get the antifoul to work properly if done between tides.
[/ QUOTE ]
well thats a funny thing /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
we do this on a regular basis on the East Coast with no probs @ all, what the hell does our Harbour Master know hes bin doin it for 65 yrs /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Sans Bateau
Well-Known Member
Given your location, vics and ours. We used to A/F between tides when we were around at Emsworth marina, used both International and later Blakes.
Never had any problems.
Routine was, best done on a warm dry day; as tide drops blast off with preasure washer, get underside clean, check for loose bits of AF. Prime areas of bare GRP. Put on 1st coat AF. By now tide is on its way back up. Second day wash off with light use of preasure washer to remove salt, apply second coat of AF plus do other work needed, anodes, oil change in gearbox etc.
Did it this way for several years.
Never had any problems.
Routine was, best done on a warm dry day; as tide drops blast off with preasure washer, get underside clean, check for loose bits of AF. Prime areas of bare GRP. Put on 1st coat AF. By now tide is on its way back up. Second day wash off with light use of preasure washer to remove salt, apply second coat of AF plus do other work needed, anodes, oil change in gearbox etc.
Did it this way for several years.
oldharry
Well-Known Member
As a Chi harbour user for 15 years, Blakes Cruiser is adequate, Tiger is better if you need a bit stronger, and Tiger Extra if you are up Prinstead Creek! International tends to be a bit dissapointing except in the strongest formulations here.
International Bootopping is a waste of time in Chichester - local waterline Grass feeds on the stuff!
I have used Jotun as well in Dell Quay and it worked well enough with Barnacles, but did have some weed growth.
As to painting between tides, I have very rarely done it any other way - and in 40 years bioat owning have yet to ave any problem with it. Makers have to hedge their bets of course, just in case there is a problem, but one occasion we were winching a boat down the slip, with a gang painting the AF on as she went past! No problems later!
BUT - the hull MUST be dry before you start, or your expensive new paint will just float off with the incoming tide! If you can see damp - like where water is still dribbling from a skin fitting for example - you must dry it off before overcoating. Paint doesnt stick well to water!
International Bootopping is a waste of time in Chichester - local waterline Grass feeds on the stuff!
I have used Jotun as well in Dell Quay and it worked well enough with Barnacles, but did have some weed growth.
As to painting between tides, I have very rarely done it any other way - and in 40 years bioat owning have yet to ave any problem with it. Makers have to hedge their bets of course, just in case there is a problem, but one occasion we were winching a boat down the slip, with a gang painting the AF on as she went past! No problems later!
BUT - the hull MUST be dry before you start, or your expensive new paint will just float off with the incoming tide! If you can see damp - like where water is still dribbling from a skin fitting for example - you must dry it off before overcoating. Paint doesnt stick well to water!
andy_wilson
Well-Known Member
All eroding A/F dries mega-quick. When I have done the A/F whilst chocked up, the 6 or 8 patches done whilst in the straps just minutes before launch have shown no signs later in the season of being any different to the rest put on days weeks or even months before launch.
More often I 'do' between the tides. You need to work like a demon to do it in one go (Fulmar 32) so should be acheivable on yours. It helps if you can ensure the waterline is clear down to 2 feet under. This can be done by dinghy, as can a little more as the tide drops, until the only way to get any form of purchase is by jumping in the water. A garden sprayer could be handy as a rinse off, however, I have always applied A/F between tides without a rinse and noticed no problems with performance or adhesion.
The only time I have rinsed the hull was when I dried on the Dart and hired the H/Ms jet wash, which made things a bit easier, or could it be the fact that I had my brother-in-law and nephew to help, and steam trains dressed as Thomas the Tank Engine to occupy my daughter!
For what it is worth, I have come to the conclusion that current consumer A/F is totally crap. This year I am re-launching without fresh A/F. Fouling will be minimal until around June, when I will dry out to scrub. I may even just leave of completely this season, a few scrub-offs with a nylon pad will reduce the accumulated thickness of A/F which is a good thing to prevent flaking.
From feedback seen on here, drying and scrubbing a few times sounds preferable to scraping back accumulated A/F in one go, which sounds a right pain in the XXXX / back.
Final point, check the landing strip on the tide before drying out. If you don't want to go mad, do it over two tides, but pick a decent venue as there will be loads of hanging around if you do!
More often I 'do' between the tides. You need to work like a demon to do it in one go (Fulmar 32) so should be acheivable on yours. It helps if you can ensure the waterline is clear down to 2 feet under. This can be done by dinghy, as can a little more as the tide drops, until the only way to get any form of purchase is by jumping in the water. A garden sprayer could be handy as a rinse off, however, I have always applied A/F between tides without a rinse and noticed no problems with performance or adhesion.
The only time I have rinsed the hull was when I dried on the Dart and hired the H/Ms jet wash, which made things a bit easier, or could it be the fact that I had my brother-in-law and nephew to help, and steam trains dressed as Thomas the Tank Engine to occupy my daughter!
For what it is worth, I have come to the conclusion that current consumer A/F is totally crap. This year I am re-launching without fresh A/F. Fouling will be minimal until around June, when I will dry out to scrub. I may even just leave of completely this season, a few scrub-offs with a nylon pad will reduce the accumulated thickness of A/F which is a good thing to prevent flaking.
From feedback seen on here, drying and scrubbing a few times sounds preferable to scraping back accumulated A/F in one go, which sounds a right pain in the XXXX / back.
Final point, check the landing strip on the tide before drying out. If you don't want to go mad, do it over two tides, but pick a decent venue as there will be loads of hanging around if you do!
fireball
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
There are no antifouls available for application between tides. Antifoul needs a minimum of 24 hours air curing time. It will not have time to cure properly between tides. Just because some people do it does not make it correct.
Ring the manufacturer or check the product literature and guides.
You will not get the antifoul to work properly if done between tides.
[/ QUOTE ]
A load of tripe .... So the folks back at International Yacht paints are talking bolx. Their VC17m has a re-immersion time of 20minutes ....
We'll use that if nessersary ... but wanted to hear what others in the same harbour use.
There are no antifouls available for application between tides. Antifoul needs a minimum of 24 hours air curing time. It will not have time to cure properly between tides. Just because some people do it does not make it correct.
Ring the manufacturer or check the product literature and guides.
You will not get the antifoul to work properly if done between tides.
[/ QUOTE ]
A load of tripe .... So the folks back at International Yacht paints are talking bolx. Their VC17m has a re-immersion time of 20minutes ....
We'll use that if nessersary ... but wanted to hear what others in the same harbour use.
fireball
Well-Known Member
Thankyou to the others ... - we'll have a look at Blakes ...
Rivers & creeks
Well-Known Member
And the regular Compass Cruiser works fine between tides, dries so darn quick if you make a mistake you've got to clean it off quick.
VicMallows
Well-Known Member
Fireball,
You've had plenty of other advice already, but FWIW I've used FLAG for the past few years with good results, and it goes on well. (Available from Screwfix). I noticed the other day that SeaTeach have SEAGO a/f at £35 for 3litres for the basic strength, but no idea what it's like. (NOT SeaJet which got good results in the Mag).
Vic
You've had plenty of other advice already, but FWIW I've used FLAG for the past few years with good results, and it goes on well. (Available from Screwfix). I noticed the other day that SeaTeach have SEAGO a/f at £35 for 3litres for the basic strength, but no idea what it's like. (NOT SeaJet which got good results in the Mag).
Vic
Sans Bateau
Well-Known Member
vic & fireball
Blakes always worked very well for us when we were in Emsworth.
Blakes always worked very well for us when we were in Emsworth.
aldeburgh
Well-Known Member
thanks everyone for your imput
Tim
Tim
Windfall
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
.. though have got away with it in far less than ideal. Recommend rinsing with fresh water first...Vic
[/ QUOTE ]
tee hee, less than ideal....the most effective bit of antifouling I've ever done was over dried on mud when were in such a hurry to get the boat launched we didn't have time for any refinements what-so-ever. It worked a treat...lasted all season and she came out pretty much as she went in....obviously not to be recommended for prettiness or a racing smooth finish but it's always tickled us that we did it and it worked. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
.. though have got away with it in far less than ideal. Recommend rinsing with fresh water first...Vic
[/ QUOTE ]
tee hee, less than ideal....the most effective bit of antifouling I've ever done was over dried on mud when were in such a hurry to get the boat launched we didn't have time for any refinements what-so-ever. It worked a treat...lasted all season and she came out pretty much as she went in....obviously not to be recommended for prettiness or a racing smooth finish but it's always tickled us that we did it and it worked. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
